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Old 10-16-2012, 02:11 PM   #1
BarracudaBoy
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Default Marvel Carb Parts

Anyone know where to find parts for the Marvel/Sears/Western Auto, Model A carb? I would like to get a new needle and seat for GAV for the one I have. The closest I've come is finding a gasket set at Mikes:
http://www.mikes-afordable.com/miva/...gory_Code=1046

Thanks.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:50 PM   #2
MikeK
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts


Marvel hard parts have never been available. Since it is strictly aftermarket and was never later used by Ford, like the Tillotson, no one makes parts. None. Zip. You need to find another with the parts you need, or fix what you have. It is possible to modify a tilly jet tube for one, but it's no drop in. Most of the used Marvels out there are missing the choke driver, usually the first part to break. I have come across NORS complete Marvel carbs, still in the box.
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:15 PM   #3
Stan/MO.
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

I have a Marvel "Rayfield" carb on my 30 coupe it works great, I was just wondering if there was anything I should be on the lookout for. Any comments on these?
Thanks,
Stan
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:33 PM   #4
columbiA
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

Most Marvel carbs Ive seen at swap meets were missing the choke driver which is different than the Zenith or Tillotson.In the28-49 Fomoco of Canada parts book,the B carb was the replacement for the A.In 1957 ,I bought a new Tillotson for $7.50 !
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:12 AM   #5
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

I have several of those carbs. is the GAV valve hex in shape? Email me a list of what you need. 4banger
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:23 AM   #6
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

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Are there any known stampings on the Marvel carbs indicating sold through Ford such as the XF on the Tilloson??
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:29 AM   #7
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

Nobody currently makes the Marvel GAV or GAV driver with the hex hole. A couple years ago I queried A & L Parts at the Hershey swap meet about making them (since they make the drivers for the Zenith and Tilly carbs) and they told me that they could but the cost would be way too much - more than the carbs worth generally.

A few years ago, I made a Zenith driver work by carefully grinding and filing the original Marvel GAV into a half hex profile that would fit the half round shape of the Zenith/Tilly driver - it worked - although I would still prefer an original driver with the hex hole.

It seems, with so many of these carbs around that someone would repro the GAV and the driver.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:23 AM   #8
Tacoma Bob
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

I will venture out on a limb on this one. I have a cousin that is very involved with tractor restorations. He has no problems getting parts for his M/S carbs. I guess my question would be, are there different models of M/S carbs?
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:50 PM   #9
Jon-Ohio
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

Yes there are different models. MS made carbs for farm tractors and other engines. I rebuilt one for a Ford 2n tractor a few years back - they're cast iron with renewable jets and parts similar to the Zenith but are not interchangeable. The MS Model A carb is not cast iron but pot metal with the jets cast into the body - hence nothing much replaceable other than the gaskets.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:17 PM   #10
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

I think I might have found it!

....no, I didn't. Never mind.

Last edited by BarracudaBoy; 10-23-2012 at 06:19 PM. Reason: Wrong info!
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:59 AM   #11
Tacoma Bob
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

>Jon.....thanks for the info!
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:30 AM   #12
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

You can get a viton float as the ones for the Case V, VA, VAC, and 300 fit perfectly.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:19 PM   #13
Peyton
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

Threaded rod cut to size then drill and tap for inner thread. Carb works great.
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:29 PM   #14
Keith True
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Default Re: Marvel Carb Parts

You can make a choke driver for the Marvel with a new driver for the Zenith and a good quality deep 1/4 drive socket.I think it was 9/32 but that might be wrong.Cut a little off the socket,bore the driver to the same size as the outside of the socket,and squash it all together.Maybe some JB weld if you like,but by the time you get done squeezing the two parts together you'll realize it ain't coming apart.You will have to use a good quality socket,not because of strength,but because a good socket has thin walls.A cheapo is just too thick.I've made a couple of them.
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