Sealed beams

[Russell Reay]

I am not ready to tackle headlights yet, but I have been following the discussions about original vs halogen vs LEDs. Why are sealed beams not included in the discussions ?

[Banditorama]

They just don't look right compared to the original lights. I'm sure they work fine, but they ruin the original look of the car IMO

[Keith True]

With sealed beams you have to go with the old kit that replaces the lenses,and you get the bug eyed look,or the behind the lens conversion.That one has an aluminum ring that holds the sealed beam bulb in place.Then the light is being tossed through two sets of prisms, and comes out kind of soft.And,you are still using lots of juice.The new LED's use hardly any,and are plug and play.You twist them in,set the beams level with the allen wrench provided,replace the lenses,and aim them.The aim is very important.The halogen conversions just draw way too much.The low draw halogen substitutes from the Little British Car Company work well,but after using the new LED's you will throw rocks at them.

[Synchro909]

Russell, you will have opened up that argument again!!! I would not touch LEDs - you can't focus them properly and I don't like the idea of a dazzled driver coming towards me. Sure, they are bright - too bright.

[nkaminar]

The original reflectors were polished and sliver plated. By the time the cars were 25 years old the silver was tarnished and not reflective. New reflectors were expensive. The goto solution at that time was the sealed beam kits. Now good reflectors are available at a reasonable price (compared to the value of the car). Halogen, high power incandescent, and LED bulbs are available and the sealed beam has gone out of fashion, mostly because of the funny way they look.

[Big hammer]

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My A came to me with sealed beams in chevy buckets, they were ok driving around town but not very bright, sketchy out of town. The buckets look horrible and for my 17th birthday I received a pair of original buckets that needed some work ( best ever present) I used the 50/32 bulbs and then could see much better when driving out of town. Now I have the pre- focused LED bulbs and never will go back ! I should ad that the pre-focused bulbs have a cut off line so too not blind oncoming drivers, adjusted properly no worries !!!!!

[Keith True]

I think people are not aware of how the new LED's work.The focus is in the bulb,or globe.They do NOT get focused like an incandescent bulb.With incandescent bulbs the light particles bounce off the reflectors and get tossed out the front.The shape of the reflector and position of the filament is important.With the new LED's the reflector is just a bracket to hold the bulb,it does NOT get used to reflect the light,or to focus the beam.Aiming is VERY important.I have a wall with a marked grid to aim truck headlights.Aiming against the wall using normal methods will not cut it.I aimed the A headlights with the new LED's using that wall I've used for over 35 years.Then I went to a friends garage who does inspections,they all have to have headlight aimers for LED's now.I was WAY off.After I tipped the lights down to set them to the machine specs,I went to my shop and aimed them at my old wall markings.They looked the same as they did before,against the wall,but were no longer blinding.That machine reads different spectrums of light,and is pretty simple to use,and accurate.

[David in San Antonio]

Note there are two types of LED headlamps. One has an array of LEDs with no optical system. This kind uses the reflector / focus / lens of the original system. Therefore any defects (tarnished reflector, for example) will compromise its performance. Because there is no standard quantity nor arrangement of the LEDs this kind also may or may not replicate the original light pattern within the bucket. This is critical to performance. The original incandescent lamp’s output was more or less omnidirectional, and the system of reflector, focusing mechanism, and lens were designed as part of that system.
The other type, manufactured by LogoLite and available from the usual distributors, is a complete, self-contained optical system. The condition of the reflector and focus system have no effect on its performance. If installed correctly it should not dazzle oncoming traffic. These cost about $50 each.
My experience with them has been positive with no drawbacks. I like not having to worry if a side trip means driving the Wretched Roadster home through the Texas Hill Country when it’s very dark. I also appreciate the very low current draw; when switched on, the ammeter barely moves. One man’s opinion.

[Canton_Model_A's]

I will have to agree with 'Bandit' gives your 'A' a bug-eyed look and doesn't look right. I am in the process of 'de-converting' from sealed beam back to the old style with new lenses and headlight bucket/reflectors.

[Russell Reay]

This has all been good feedback--just what I was hoping for. Just to be clear, I do not want the bug-eyed look of a sealed beam conversion, and was concerned about the two lens factor as described by Keith. As long as I can get a light that truly lowers its aim on low beam, I will be happy with LEDs. Keith and David have described a system that seems to be adequate for night driving and considerate of oncoming traffic.

[Peyton]

Have had sealed beams with both six volt generator and alternator. Sealed beams when I bought the car — I liked the look because it was reminiscent of what a Model A would have looked like during the 40’s and 50’s.

But I did revert to the old style and have to admit that they actually put out better light. No complaints!

[Pete]

My 30 A had sealed beams installed by the former owner. They sit inside the stock buckets with the stock glass over the front. You can not tell they are not stock headlights till you get within 2 feet of them and they are bright enough to see an elk at 1/4 mile.

I have no clue as to the brand of the conversion kit.

[ndnchf]

Logo Lites focused beam LED headlights, Snyders LED tail lights, stock 6v positive ground system. Generator 3rd brush set to its lowest output. With the lights on, it still shows a slight positive charge on the ammeter.

Here is a short walkaround video showing the lights.

https://youtu.be/0-EVaZI-2xg?si=w1tDSwauZWLybv1J

This video shows the ammeter.

https://youtu.be/aAF18KGnH1k?si=35rhXRxDrPUAQ5kl