More Brakes, How Far To Cut Swage??

[jplutz]

Greetings,
My front drums are worn out. You can see the warning hole on the inside, in fact it is well past the warning slot. Until recently, front drums for a 52 were "out of stock" . Anywho, Chas Carpenter just listed them as IN stock, so I ordered me a pair and got them quickly.
Now, all the great stuff that I have been reading on The Barn comes into play.
Foist, yagotta get a 5/8" hole saw.
Next , yagotta cut the swage.
Then, ya find ya self a friend wit a 2 ton press, and pop the Hub outta the drum.
Then, ya spend a small fortune buying new studs.
Then, ya pop the old studs outta the Hub.
Then, ya expand the stud hole to .600 to accommodate the new studs.
Then, ya press in the new studs.
Then ya press the Hub into the New drum.
Then, ya rebuild the bearings if needed & replace the grease seal.
Did I miss anything??
Attached are some pics of the drums: I cut 1 with the hole saw, after I had to modify it to fit (that's a yudder story).
Did I cut deep enuff???
I only did one drum so I far.
JPL

[jplutz]

My other pics didn't down load, gotta try again.

[J Franklin]

All those questions are why I took my old brake drums and hubs to a good brake shop. They mounted the new drums, relined & arced the shoes. I did supply the new linings.

[Tim Ayers]

It doesn't look it from the pictures, but tap the studs a few times with a brass hammer and see if the hub will drop out. Even when the swedge is cut out, sometimes the hub is "rust stuck" to the inside of the drum.

When I've done it, I've seen see the swedge come loose once it drilled all the out. If it's not free, you are very close.

[jplutz]

Finally I fingerd out how to attach photos!! JPL

[jplutz]

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[jplutz]

They are not free enough to smack out. Tryed each stud with a brass drift and a ball peen. Is there anything like a swage on the Hub interface? Lots of oil leaked into the inside of the Drum while I was drilling, but it is difficult to tell where the source is.

[cas3]

The drum at that point is only about a 1/6" thick. Your cuts look deep enough to me.
You wont be using the stud again, so save your brass drift. Put the drum on the floor and hit the stud hard with about a 2lb hammer. A press is better yet if you have one

[jplutz]

Ok, lemme go downstairs and try that on the concrete floor.

[corvette8n]

I took my front drums to a NAPA machine shop, they removed the old studs and pressed in longer ones to accommodate the 15” custom wheels.

[jplutz]

Thank you Cas3. The drum is much thinner than I thought.

[jplutz]

Now, I can go back out on the work deck and make make another mess with a SEG on my face .

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by cas3

The drum at that point is only about a 1/6" thick. Your cuts look deep enough to me.
You wont be using the stud again, so save your brass drift. Put the drum on the floor and hit the stud hard with about a 2lb hammer. A press is better yet if you have one

Some peoples' mileages may vary, but whanging that stud with a heavy hammer while NOT SUPPORTING the underside of that hub's flange with something like a piece of 1-1/2" pipe surrounding the stud's head is an easy way to bend that flange on the hub. I learned NOT to do that one over fifty years ago. Just sayin'!

Coop

.

[Flathead Fever]

At work I would set my brass hammer head on top of the stud and hit it with my biggest ballpeen hammer, and they pop right out.

[jplutz]

corvette8n, I think that may be my next step. I have built a good relationship with the local NAPA manager. I just wanted to get past this. My best Friend has a press, but...
I think NAPA will install the new studs and drum securly.

[jplutz]

Thanks V8COOPMAN & F F, not using my noggin. Next one will be on a piece of wood and cloth. attached are pics of the inside hub. All the marks are historical and there are NO scuffs on the concrete floor, just a ring of dirt.

[jplutz]

Soo.. The rain beat me to the deck. There is always tomorrow.

[cas3]

Coop, support on the bottom side is certainly a good idea, but when the swedge has been cut they usually are not too tuff to get moving. In my youth when I did not know about the swedge I had the local auto parts store do it for me. They did not know either and beat the still swedged studs until they bent the hub.

I am usually working on 40 style drums, and use this custom made backer.
note, its not flat, same angle as to 40 hub, and has a notch to clear the web on a 40 style hub.

[5851a]

I think I would install the hubs on the spindles and check to see if they are still straight.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I did some experimenting on separating a '35 rear hub and drum assembly that had the inner tapered diameter of the hub damaged, but the drum was still in near perfect condition with an ID of nearly 12.000". I found a 5/8" hole saw on-line that was deep enough to go down over the threaded studs and still make the correct depth cut on the swedge, which I found to be a depth of about 1/32" to 1/16" that worked well for me. I cut the swedges using my drill press with the drum on its table so I could control the depth of cut to be the same on each stud. Then without hammering on any studs, I set the assembly up on my hydraulic press with the back of the hub supported in such a way that each stud could be pressed out individually. I did thread a lug nut on each stud to give a larger pressing surface. After all the studs were removed, the hub was still tight in the drum, but with a slight press on the hub, it came completely out of the drum.
I plan to reuse this drum on a good hub with stock studs pressed into the hub, and the drum will just be loosely fitted over the studs, and held in place by the wheel and lug nuts.
Also, whenever replacing rear drum/hub assembles on tapered axles, make (damn) sure the axle nuts are torqued to specification. I use a torque of 200 to 220 ft #'s, on a clean/dry taper, and re-torque several times until torque becomes stable. This is what I found worked best for me, but as orhers have already said, your methods and results may vary.