1936 point gap question

[Willit Stop]

I have nothing better to do so I decided to set up a spare dizzy for a back up.I did some searches for 1936 point gap settings and came up with two choices. .012-.014 and .014-.016. Does anyone know which is correct? And question number two...would the smaller gap effect the advance or timing?
I know it's best to have it set up on a machine, but I would like to try this first. Thanks. Gene

[38 coupe]

I like both settings: 13 tight, 14 loose on the right side, 15 tight 16 loose on the left side. These settings on a unit with no sloop that can be felt between the shaft and the bushing. Left and right as viewed from the driver's seat (opposite side from when you view the distributor from the front to set the points).

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by 38 coupe

I like both settings: 13 tight, 14 loose on the right side, 15 tight 16 loose on the left side. These settings on a unit with no sloop that can be felt between the shaft and the bushing. Left and right as viewed from the driver's seat (opposite side from when you view the distributor from the front to set the points).

Would you explain your reason for this 38 coupe? Just curious.

[38 coupe]

Back in the 1970s my father had a Ford-Hyer distributor machine. He set most of the distributors for the Tulsa chapter of the Early Ford V8 Club. Following the instructions that come with the machine he went through each step the same for each distributor. It occurred to him that he was setting all distributors the same, and measured the results. Sure enough, all distributors had the settings I mentioned above, regardless of style (early large point helmet type, later small point helmet type, and front crab / annoying 46-48 type). He wrote the settings down and sold the machine. I set my distributors to those settings and drive happily.

[Flathead Fever]

You want to set them to the wide side of the specs because they will wear down. Also you want to use a little point lube on the cam lobe. As they wear and the gap gets smaller it changes the timing. Dwell effects the timing, timing does not affect the dwell. You set the dwell first, then the timing and last of all adjust the carb. Ideally you use the feeler gauge to set the initial gap and then use a dwell meter with it running to see the actual dwell. Then you go back and adjust the point gap smaller or larger to get the correct dwell. Those adjustments are time consuming on a front mount distributer. The feeler gauge method works just fine but if you really want to be on the money you use a dwell meter. Anytime you have the heads off get #1 on TDC and make yourself a timing pointer and marks on the crank pulley so you can time the engine with a timing light. Do not put those heads on those early flatheads without making a timing setup.

Here is a Ford Barn link where Bubba explains point gap (dwell) and how it effects timing.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176056

[big job]

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For 38 coupe:: annoying 46-48 Made easy remove pass side top radiator hose (very little coolant loss) now remove fan - two - bolts one wire and distributor is out. Set points at .015 I watched my father do this many many times when these cars ruled the highways. I still have original stock of "Standard" ignition parts from that time period.

[Willit Stop]

38 coupe... Thanks for the quick response.I believe I have the early '36 dizzy that calls for .012 to .014. So if I understand correctly, are you suggesting to set the right side at a loose .014 and the left at a tight .013? There is no slop between the shaft and bushing. I appreciate the help. Gene

[Ken/Alabama]

The only correct way to set it up is to strobe it on a distributor machine. You’d be surprised at how much the dwell can vary by just tightening the points hold down screws. That’s something you can’t see with a feeler gauge. It also allows you to set the timing and check the advance and vacuum brake.

[Willit Stop]

Thanks Ken. I believe you.I watched the point strap move as I placed the coil adapter on the dizzy. Delicate piece of machinery. I might have to put a crowbar in my wallet and send it off.

[Kurt in NJ]

i am pretty sure the 3 bolt coil distributor has different point gap than a late 36 2 bolt coil

[Willit Stop]

Thanks Kurt. From everything I've seen, the V-8's from '32 to early '36 were .012 to .014. After that they were .014 to .016.

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

The only correct way to set it up is to strobe it on a distributor machine. You’d be surprised at how much the dwell can vary by just tightening the points hold down screws. That’s something you can’t see with a feeler gauge. It also allows you to set the timing and check the advance and vacuum brake.

WITH RESPECT! I am glad that these distributors are quite forgiving for the mistakes I might make setting up the helmets I have owned. I doubt that there is anyone in our town of 25,000 that has the equipment or the know how to set one up. The car and pickup I have owned climb hills like a mountain goat in 3rd gear and go down the highway as fast as I care to drive. Starting is almost instant. A good Skip Haney coil and quality condensor probably help if I am off a couple thousandhs at the points. Back in the days before "rocket science" the point gap probably wore down to almost nothing before maintenance was called for. Maybe it was when the term "shade tree mechanic" started. LOL

[35fordtn]

If you use decent quality points and insure the weights in the distributor function properly you can get one close enough to drive. Sure the dwell may be off a tad but with a hood coil that’s no major concern… however the timing may be off a couple degrees and that’d bother me more. A sun machine really helps. More times than not the sun machine shows that the weights are sticking causing the timing to be way out of whack do to they not coming back to static.

[v8fordman]

Originally Posted by 38 coupe

I like both settings: 13 tight, 14 loose on the right side, 15 tight 16 loose on the left side. These settings on a unit with no sloop that can be felt between the shaft and the bushing. Left and right as viewed from the driver's seat (opposite side from when you view the distributor from the front to set the points).

I'm trying to figure out how points can be tight on .013 and .015 and then loose on .014 and .016 respectively? I would think they would be the exact opposite. Not trying to be smart, I just think this is backwards.

When I build distributors, I set the initial timing with my K.R. Wilson timing fixture and then set the dwell on my Ford-Heyer machine. (Also, my Ford-Heyer machine reads in % dwell not degrees so this is something that most modern day gear heads are not accustomed to.) Modern dwell meters read in degrees. Every distributor is set up with a Skip coil and a tested condenser as well as running the current through a resistor. It is rotated using an Allen distributor machine so I can vary the RPM's. I want to imitate the exact conditions it will be subjected to when it is on the car.

[Willit Stop]

Hopefully, 38 coupe will reply again.

[38 coupe]

I'm back, I frequently only have time on the weekends to get on Ford Barn.
I adjust one set of points using two feeler gauges. The thinner one should slide through easily, this is the "loose" setting. The thicker one should slide through with drag, this is the "tight" setting.
With the 32-48 distributors I use 4 feeler gauges, .013 and .014 for the right side, .015, and .016 for the left side (as viewed from the driver's seat).
Ignition timing is set by the second set of points to open, the right side, and by the adjustment on the side of the distributor.
The left side point gap at any reasonable setting effects dwell only, not timing.

[deuce_roadster]

I guess I am lucky, I do have a Sun machine and I pay NO attention to the point gap, the settings I have are for the dwell at 22 1/2 degrees on driver's side set of points (American) by putting paper between the contacts of the passenger side set, and then set the total dwell at 35-36 degrees by adjusting the passenger side set of points with both sets working by removing the paper. I usually run the distributor 30-45 minutes before setting anything to get some wear onto the rubbing blocks, then lube. Like Michael said, the machine tells you many other things by observing the strobe arrows, for example, if they are not right on all the correct degree marks you can see that the cam lobes the points ride on is worn.
And I also take the vacuum brake piston out to inspect and make sure it is not rubbing on the disk during setting the points.

[Willit Stop]

38 Coupe.... Thanks for clearing that up. Makes sense now.
Deuce.... Please correct me if I'm wrong. I read somewhere ( on the Barn) that the '34 to early '36's dwell is 27* driver side and 36* combined. Late '36 and up is 22.5*

My dizzy is the 40B 3 bolt domed coil with one piece strapped points and bigger cam.
Thanks guys.

[deuce_roadster]

Willit Stop,
Thanks,
All the distributors I have ever done had the 11A shafts in them. I will see if I can find what you are describing (and write that in my Sun instruction book) in case I ever run across a 32-early 36 with original shafts and weights.
Millions of these cars ran "fine" without ever having thier distributors see a Sun machine!
Mike (deuce_roadster)

[38 coupe]

I can offer the Ford procedure from 1938 if you are interested. Earlier in the book it is explained that the Laboratory Test Set uses an ammeter for dwell readings. This is why the steps pictured here instruct the user to first short the reading by hooking directly to the distributor housing then adjusting the rheostat to get a reading of 100. Pictures of cover, copyright page, and procedure: