shock questions

[rogerkb1936]

why do shocks remain such a mystery? anyway, i was given a pair of V-8 shocks, the kind with the notches in front. i will put these on the rear of my pickup. i did heat and bend arms (rough but usable ones) to better enable the dogbone links to line up. these both are nice and tight, and work and adjust fine. i assume that they are supposed to offer less resistance on the up stroke than the down. these do. they have a pale green slippery liquid in them, doesn't quite look like oil. is this glycerine? if so, is it available? if not, will it satisfactorily mix with oil? lastly, years ago i read how to bench test these by putting a certain weight on end and timing how long it takes arm to get to bottom. anyone know where i saw that? thanx for any advice.

[Kurt in NJ]

The model A service bulletins has an article with the arm, weight, and the time for the movement

do not mix oil and glycerine

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by rogerkb1936

why do shocks remain such a mystery? anyway, i was given a pair of V-8 shocks, the kind with the notches in front. i will put these on the rear of my pickup. i did heat and bend arms (rough but usable ones) to better enable the dogbone links to line up. these both are nice and tight, and work and adjust fine. i assume that they are supposed to offer less resistance on the up stroke than the down. these do. they have a pale green slippery liquid in them, doesn't quite look like oil. is this glycerine? if so, is it available? if not, will it satisfactorily mix with oil? lastly, years ago i read how to bench test these by putting a certain weight on end and timing how long it takes arm to get to bottom. anyone know where i saw that? thanx for any advice.

Why do you say that?...There has been much research on the Model A/AA Ford Shock and Shock Link assembly over the years.

Yes...Glycerine is still available.

Pluck

[rogerkb1936]

well, if you are so smart why didn't you answer my questions? a lot of what has been printed about shocks is either wrong or unclear. i have some older marx and lionel stuff that is surplus to my needs. nothing too exciting.

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by rogerkb1936

why do shocks remain such a mystery? They can be a mystery to some and not to others...depends on just what specificaly the mystery is to yourself...How do they function, why were they built that way, who supplied the shocks, ...best I can do is give you some research data that have been done on shocks,,,see below...If I were to do it for you would take me all day...Maybe you have a friend in the hobby where you can view the articles mentiond below. anyway, i was given a pair of V-8 shocks, the kind with the notches in front. i will put these on the rear of my pickup. i did heat and bend arms (rough but usable ones) to better enable the dogbone links to line up. these both are nice and tight, and work and adjust fine. i assume that they are supposed to offer less resistance on the up stroke than the down. these do. they have a pale green slippery liquid in them, doesn't quite look like oil. is this glycerine? Do not know...need to visibly see it. Can you provide a photo of the "pale green slippery liquid"? if so, is it available? As I said in the post above...glycerine is still available. if not, will it satisfactorily mix with oil? See Kurt's comment in his post. lastly, years ago i read how to bench test these by putting a certain weight on end and timing how long it takes arm to get to bottom. anyone know where i saw that? No...Might of been in the Service Bulletins or in one of The Restorer or Model A News magizines. thanx for any advice.

SHOCK ABSORBERS: A-18000---A-18199


A-18015-B, A-18016-B: Shock Absorber Assembly
“Rebuilding “A” Shock Absorbers”: MAN/8/12/???? (1961)
“Shock Absorbers. Part 1”: MAN/13/1/15-18 (1966)**1
“Shock Absorbers, Part 2”: MAN/13/2/15-17 (1966)**1
“Hydraulic Fluids for Houdaille Shock Absorbers”: MAN/13/2/17-18 (1966)**1
“Those CANADIAN Cousins”: MAN/24/4/13 (1977)
“TIPS…On Shocks”: MAN/25/5/13 (1978)**4
“On the Road”: MAN/32/6/11 (1985) **6
“On the Road”: MAN/39/5/16-17 (1992)**7
“Shock Absorber Testing”: MAN/51/1/25 (2004)
“Judging Area 23 for Fine Point”: MAN/54/1/28-29 (2007)
“Model A Ford Shock Absorbers”: MAN/54/6/18-23 (2007)
“Rebuilding Ford Shocks”: TR/3/2/10-11 (1958)
“Rebuilding Ford Shocks”: TR/8/221-22 (1963)*1
“Adjustment of Houdaille Shock Absorbers”: TR/10/5/9-10 (1966)
“Shock Absorber Adjustment”: TR/13/3/8 (1968)
“Servicing Model A Shock Absorbers”: TR/13/3/10-13 (1968)
“TIP…Tool to Disassemble Shock Absorbers”: TR/13/6/5 (1969)
“Rebuilding Shocks…The McCleery Way”: TR/19/2/18-19 (1974)*2
“LETTER…On The McCleery Way”: TR/21/4/2 (1976)
“TIP…Shock Absorber Adjustment”: TR/27/6/26 (1983)*3
“Houdaille Shock Absorbers”: TR/57/1/18-23 (2012)
“Shocks for your Model A…Comparing Types”: MAT/1/3/28-31 (2005)
“New Reproduction Shocks”: MAT/4/4/34-35 (2008)
“New Replacement Shock Absorbers”: MAT/8/3/14 (2012)

A-18037-A: Shock Absorber Needle Valve Assembly
“On the Road”: MAN/36/1/5-6 (1989)**7
“On the Hill”: MAN/48/1/12 (2001)
“Judging Area 23 for Fine Point”: MAN/54/1/28-29 (2007)
“TIP…Seals to prevent Leaking Around Adjustment Valves”: TR/18/1/34 (1973)

A-18047-B: Front shock absorber arm
“On the Road”: MAN/39/5/13 (1992)**7
“Judging Area 23 for Fine Point”: MAN/54/1/28-29 (2007)
“Shock Absorber Arms”: MAN 55/3/22-25 (2008)

A-18052-B: Rear shock absorber arm
“On the Road”: MAN/39/5/16 (1992)**7
“On the Road”: MAN/43/6/16 (1996)
“Judging Area 23 for Fine Point”: MAN/54/1/28-29 (2007)
“Shock Absorber Arms”: MAN 55/3/22-25 (2008)

A-20916: Bolt (shock absorber arm clamp)
“On the Road”: MAN/43/6/16 (1996)

A-18058: Shock absorber grease retainer
“On the Road”: MAN/36/5/14-15 (1989)**7
“Judging Area 23 for Fine Point”: MAN/54/1/28-29 (2007)
“On the Hill”: MAN/56/6/10-11 (2009)

A-18059: Shock absorber grease retainer cup
“On the Road”: MAN/36/5/14-15 (1989)**7
“On the Road”: MAN/43/6/15 (1996)
“Judging Area 23 for Fine Point”: MAN/54/1/28-29 (2007)
“On the Hill”: MAN/56/6/10-11 (2009)

A-18063-A: Shock absorber link tube
“More on the Distinctive Early “A””: MAN/15/5/12 (1969)
“On the Road”: MAN/36/5/14-15 (1989)**7
“On the Road”: MAN/43/6/14 (1996)
“On the Road”: MAN/44/1/16 (1997)
“Judging Area 23 for Fine Point”: MAN/54/1/28-29 (2007)
“On the Hill”: MAN/56/6/10-11 (2009)
“On the Hill (Early)”: MAN/57/2/18 (2010)
“Shock Links…A Compairsion”: MAT/1/4/19 (2005)

A-18063-B: Shock absorber link tube
“Model “A” Tubular Shock Links”: MAN/27/5/24-26 (1980)**5
“On the Road”: MAN/36/5/14-15 (1989)
“On the Road”: MAN/44/1/16 (1997)
“Judging Area 23 for Fine Point”: MAN/54/1/28-29 (2007)
“On the Hill”: MAN/56/6/10-11 (2009)
“On the Hill”: MAN/57/2/18 (2010)
“Restoring Tubular Shock Links”: TR/12/1/7-8 (1967)*2

OTHER ARTICLES ON THE SHOCK ABSORBER AND LINKS
“TIPS for a Better Ride”: MAN/27/5/26 (1980)
“CORRECTION to 1994 JS”: MAN/47/1/10 (2000)
“Judging Area 23 for Fine Point”: MAN/54/1/28-29 (2007)
“Tech Tip on assembling Shock Links”: MAN/57/3/13 (2010)
“The Hassler Canadian Shock Absorber”: MAN/57/5/22-23 (2010)
“My Experience With Model A Shock Absorbers”: TR/11/6/8-11 (1967)*2
“LETTER…Additional Information”: TR/12/1/3 (1967)
“The Houdaille Story, Part 1”: TR/24/1/10-14 (1979)
“The Houdaille Story, Part 2 (How to Handle ((Restore)) Houdailles”: TR/24/2/14-19 (1979)*3
“The Houdaille Story, Part 3 (Major Machinework and Restoration”: TR/24/3/34-36 (1979)*3
“Yet Another Shocking Experience”: TR/44/4/8 (1999)
“Houdaille Shock Absorbers”: TR/57/1/18-23 (2012)
“New Reproduction Shocks”: MAT/4/4/34-35 (2008)

TR is The Restorer (MARC)
MAN is Model A News (MAFCA)
MAT is Model A Times

There...all questions answered....If not, bring it on!

Pluck

[Steve Plucker]

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[QUOTE=rogerkb1936;734943]well, if you are so smart why didn't you answer my questions? See above post... a lot of what has been printed about shocks is either wrong or unclear. Can you point out those printed articles that are wrong or unclear about the shocks to the rest of us so we know also? i have some older marx and lionel stuff that is surplus to my needs. nothing too exciting. I like exciting things as mint stuff![/QUOTE]

Pluck

[rogerkb1936]

well captain wheaties, i see you are about as knowedgeable as to model a shocks as i am. as soon as you digest all the info you referenced, let me know how to adjust them. and try to find out what the pale green stuff is also.

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by rogerkb1936

well captain wheaties, i see you are about as knowedgeable as to model a shocks as i am. as soon as you digest all the info you referenced, let me know how to adjust them. and try to find out what the pale green stuff is also.

Now no name calling here...That will get you no where because whatever I say about them will either be wrong or unclear to you also.

As I said...Point out to us those articles about the shocks that are wrong so we all know...

Maybe it is antifreeze mixed with oil or glycerine or Lime Soda Pop OR maybe it is the
"New Shock Absorber Fluid" that Ford talks about on page 467 of the June 1930 Service Bulletins...Hell I don't know...I told you that...could be almost anything...Take the stuff to a chemist and have him anilyze it...show us a picture of the stuff and quit your whining!

Go to the V-8 site and ask the question to them since it is V-8 shocks you are working with.

For adjusting the Model A/AA Shock...see pages 205, 258, 282, 302, 311, 353 and 446 in the Model A/AA Ford Service Bulletins...For V-8 Shocks...See the V-8 Service Bulletins.

Pluck

[mot]

I have used many of the references that steve has researched and formatted and listed above on his own time and with his own money
to help SOME people
I have bought the video that Alex Janke spent so much time on making
which is available from the MAFCA
and had absolutely no problem on taking apart at least 100 shocks
I thought of writing an article repairing shocks ,but found every bit of correct information ,in the references above
none of it was confusing
since you are working on V8 shocks perhaps the boys over there may be able to assist you

[1931 flamingo]

If your V8 shocks are made the same way as the A's, there should be a type of needle valve which is the adjustment. As mentioned above, there are detailed instructions in the service bulletins or try doing a search for some of the articles Pluck has mentioned. Bill Wzorek(sp?) on the EV8 forum rebuilds the V8 shocks and may be able to help you also.
Paul in CT

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by rogerkb1936

well captain wheaties, i see you are about as knowedgeable as to model a shocks as i am. as soon as you digest all the info you referenced, let me know how to adjust them. and try to find out what the pale green stuff is also.

Tell you what Roger, I will personally take 4 hours out of my time for you (or more...what ever it takes) and copy ALL the information I have pertaining to adjusting shocks (Model A/AA Shocks that is) and I will personally send all those articles to you. How does that sound?

Maybe...Just maybe...that one article will solve the "mystery" for you!

But first you have to tell me what articles you have looked at that you think are wrong so I do not have to recopy them for your reference.

Also I need your name and address so I can send you the articles.

Now what do you say to that deal?

Pluck

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by rogerkb1936

why do shocks remain such a mystery? Things will clear up when you learn moreanyway, i was given a pair of V-8 shocks, the kind with the notches in front. i will put these on the rear of my pickup. i did heat and bend arms (rough but usable ones) to better enable the dogbone links to line up. these both are nice and tight, and work and adjust fine. i assume that they are supposed to offer less resistance on the up stroke than the down. these do.I would assume that to be true but they are v 8 shocks and not model A shocks they have a pale green slippery liquid in them, doesn't quite look like oil. is this glycerine? Glycerin is clear if so, is it available? if not, will it satisfactorily mix with oil? one has to know what it is firstlastly, years ago i read how to bench test these by putting a certain weight on end and timing how long it takes arm to get to bottom. anyone know where i saw that? I've seen that as well but is the spec of the V8 shock the same as the A shock?thanx for any advice.

...

[31 RPU]

How do you get those things apart?
I have some soaking in diesel fuel, am I going about it the right way?

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by 31 RPU

How do you get those things apart?
I have some soaking in diesel fuel, am I going about it the right way?

Please forgive me but if you do a search you will find several threads about working on the shocks.

Seems that most place the shock in a BBQ and heat it up real well then drop it in a bucket of water.

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by 31 RPU

How do you get those things apart?
I have some soaking in diesel fuel, am I going about it the right way?

31 RPU...

I would remove them from the diesel fuel and drain them real good. DID I SAY "REAL GOOD"? Hopefully you have removed the filler plug on each.

You will see above, many, many different articles that have been published over the years about shock restoration.

Keep each shock and its individual parts with the same shock for which you take apart...DO NOT MIX AND MATCH.

Note just where each part was in the shock when taken apart so as to put each part back in its original position.

Read and understand what needs to be cleaned and open within the shock itself to get it to function right.

KNOW THE SHOCK BEFORE DISSASEMBLY.

Since you have soked the shock in Diesel...I WOULD BE VERY, VERY, VERY (TIMES 100) CAREFUL ON THIS NEXT STEP IN DISASEMBLY.

You want to heat the shock (with the fill plug off) to where the shock is very hot...Not to the point of red hot, but just very hot...This expands the metal. You can do this either with a BBQ unit, as Mike said above, or a toarch BUT DO IT OUTSIDE.

Once the shock is heated...drop it in very cold water...this "shrinks" the metal and let the shock cool. From there the removal of the shock parts should come easy with no damage to the parts themselves.

DO NOT USE A PIPE WRENCH TO REMOVE THE COVER. This will damage and distort the cover itself. DO NOT ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS.

Tom Wesenberg, one of our guru Model A/AA Ford posters and restorers, has made such a tool to remove the covers, maybe he can post another photo of it if you can not find it in a "search".

KNOW THE SHOCK BEFORE DISSASEMBLY...Although they all operate in the same fashion, and depending on which one of the five manufactures of the shocks and the time period for which they were made, all have a somewhat different look to them depending on the manufacture.

DO NOT MIX AND MATCH...YOU WILL NEVER GET THEM TO WORK RIGHT.

Pluck

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here are some tools I made to remove the outer cover, lock ring, and inner cover.

[31 RPU]

Steve plucker,
Thanks for the advise. I didn't remove the plugs on the two I have soaking in diesel. I just wire brushed them off and dropped them in. They are the AC brand. I only have the fronts off at the present time and I left the arms on them so I should be able to tell which is left and which is right. I will remove them from the diesel and try what you have suggested.

Tom,
Those tools you made look good. Do you sell them?

[Steve Plucker]

31 RPU...

First of all, "AC" is not one of the "brands" of shocks. The "AC" was stamped on all shocks (cover and body) that went either on the left front or right rear of the chassis...Those with "CW" stamped on them went on the right front or left rear of the chassis.

Look at the covers...they all should match. The covers will tell you the "brand" of one of the five makers of shocks.

Like I said...GET TO KNOW YOUR SHOCKS!

Pluck

[Brian LI]

Originally Posted by Steve Plucker

31 RPU...

First of all, "AC" is not one of the "brands" of shocks. The "AC" was stamped on all shocks (cover and body) that went either on the left front or right rear of the chassis...Those with "CW" stamped on them went on the right front or left rear of the chassis.


Pluck

So I'll go out on a limb here and I figure that the CW meant that the spring was to be in a Clock Wise positiona when installed. For the AC it was to be installed in an Anti Clockwise position.

BTW Pluck Thanks for all the info you provide. You provide a huge resource to many folks here and elsewhere on the web.

[31 RPU]

Looks like I am already getting to know the shocks. I didn't know about the AC and the CW marked on them. I will look a little closer when I go back to the garage. Wish I didn't have to work.....