Headlight - Plastic connectors

[bluesman31]

What is the deal with the plastic connectors that allow the connection from the headlight assemblies to wires that run inside the the chrome flexible tubes (conduits). I must be doing something wrong because the whole thing doesn't seem to go together properly. It appears to be the worst electrical connection interface I have ever seen. Again there must be some trick I a missing?


The wires coming from the conduits have molded on metal ends that fit into the little black plastic interface piece. This "Male" assembly pushes into the "Female" metal socket that fits loosely into the headlight shell.

Is there some trick to inserting the plastic piece into the shell? There are two raised bumps on the female socket. I aligned one with the slot in the plastic piece, and the other just jams onto the plastic holding it all together? It seems so Micky -mouse

I can make it work using pliers and forcing everything together, but something doesn't seem right. Les Andrews book #1 show some spring clips on page 1-217 that I don't have?

Any thoughts?

[1931 flamingo]

Do a search here. Many problems with the repro pieces. Try to find original pieces, or after doing a search use what others have, or hard wire yours.
Paul in CT

[bluesman31]

I did search and found nothing, any search suggestions on this topic?

[160B]

Originally Posted by bluesman31

I did search and found nothing, any search suggestions on this topic?

use this link there are 85 posts and you should find your soultion

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/search...archid=2946047

here is one specific post from the list

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...adlight+socket

[Joe K]

I don't have Les' book in front of me but the way it is supposed to work is the "common" headlamp socket that penetrates the headlamp shell passes through the shell ferrule and protrudes to the outside.

You then use the headlamp wires and push the bullet ends into the plastic piece so they are exposed at the contact end. This plastic piece with the wires attached is then inserted into the protruding common socket.

THEN the conduit is applied over and bayonet locks onto the common socket and holds everything together.

You're right though - its a weak setup both mechanically AND electrically.

And issues are further compounded by the fact that in today's aftermarket world, the headlamp sockets are made by one manufacturer, the plastic piece by another, the conduits by another, and the bullet ends/wiring by yet another - and none of them are paying much attention to the OEM design drawings. Most modern bullet ends are not even shaped/applied as the 1930 era bullet ends were.

Drivers today generally prefer to "gut out" the headlamp common socket and use only the cylindrical metal piece which is then inserted into the headlamp shell ferrule similarly to it's original position - but it's only purpose is to give a place to land the conduit end and give OEM appearance.

Meanwhile, one cuts off the bullet ends and uses the wires either by soldering to the headlamp socket wires directly protected by shrink tubing (best) or by push on or crimp on connectors (not so good and subject to corrosion due to moisture which they are subject to.)

One advantage of this er, aftermarket arrangement is that the additional room in the common socket/conduit interface allows one to bring a dedicated "ground wire" from the headlamp sockets directly through the conduit to the car frame (hidden by the radiator shell) This gets past the issue of electrical ground being maintained by the headlamp reflectors/shell swivel/headlamp bar mounts/fenders/etc, etc. And further improves headlamp reliability.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Trying to maintain an OEM situation with aftermarket parts is an exercise in frustration. And doing it even with OEM parts is at least a challenge.

Hope this helps,
Joe K

[mot]

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first of all is your car a 30-31?
if so, you must use the orange connector
there is a good description on how it goes together
on page 457 in the service bulletins
there is additional information on page 'for the change made in 1929
tom

[CarlG]

Hard wire it with bullet connectors either in the headlight bucket or the radiator shell.

[mass A man]

Forget the original set up. The repro parts are crummy too. If you are a purist and want a fine point car, use original parts only. If you ever want to depend on headlights, re-wire as Joe said. I use modern plastic in-line connectors that are color-coded with a corresponding dot of green, yellow & red paint in the headlamp bucket ends where I can see which wire to re-connect when having to pull the lamp assembly off for some reason. "Why didn't I do this years ago?" Maybe because I'm stubborn and wanted to use the repro parts I bought and paid for---never again at this part of the car.

[figment]

If you want to stay with the original style connectors you will have to make the hole deeper where the wire slides in. Some of the reproductions are just not deep enough. Some of the wire ends are also to long so they will tend to lay over and short out. I hope this makes sense to you.

[MAG]

Some of the Headlight Harnesses come with the Bullet Ends like the picture on the left. These, when inserted in the plastic Headlight Wire Plugs are too long and can cause the connectors in the headlamp shell to distort and short out. Instructions say to drill the hole in the Plugs deeper. The best results I have had with them is to grind the tip of the Bullet End down to where it only projects slightly (1/32")above the Plugs instead of drilling them.
Or,
Replace them with the original style Brass Terminal Ends (Right picture)which work perfectly.
This terminal can be purchased from Bratton's PN 20421.
Don't confuse these Terminal Ends with those on the '28.

[Duffy1]

Looked at mine and they are rat tailed together. Been working like that for a long time.

[spike]

braton has all of correct parts you need and they are correct. I get my conduit pcs from a&l and they snap together like they should. Orig they did not use those bullets they used one that is flat where it goes into the light. also braton has the correct connectors that are drilled to the right depth. Once you get it back to orig and get ride of the repo stuff that is made wrong your days will be better. If you do not understand this call walt and he can streighten you out and put you on the right trail. good luck

[Joe K]

rat tailed together

I like that descriptor...

And shrink tubing is the Mechanical God's gift to electrical.

Joe K

[bluesman31]

Originally Posted by mot

first of all is your car a 30-31?
if so, you must use the orange connector
there is a good description on how it goes together
on page 457 in the service bulletins
there is additional information on page 'for the change made in 1929
tom

I will check my service bulletin. The car is a 31 and has black connectors, not the orange, that may be a huge part of the problem.

it may make sense to simply solder and hard wire them in when I upgrade my electrical s to 12V and Halogens.