'32 to '40 juice brake conversion

[firerod]

When I bought my '32 chassis it already had the hydraulic '40 brake conversion done. I don't know if the previous owner had ever driven the car or if it was still in the mock up phase (I bought it from someone who bought it at his estate sale). I have not seen anyone mount their master cylinder this way before. Any reason why this set up won't work?

[firerod]

Two more pictures.

[CSArno]

I would think it would work just fine. My only thought is, is there enough throw on the master cylinder arm before the brake pedal bottoms out on the floor.. Looks like there is some room to tweak it if some more throw is needed. You would have to move the linkage from the brake pedal down on the left arm to get more throw on the master cylinder arm.
Worth seeing if it works.

Chris

[hotrodA]

That's a pretty neat and clean installation. Seems like the was a similar piece shown on the HAMB a while back. Should work fine as long as the m/c stroke is sufficient, as Chris said.

You may want to consider a dual chamber, drum/drum m/c, if that is a concern. Or not.

[SofaKing]

The cross shaft looks as if it were purposely designed for that or a similar installation. The Ford brake pedal on my truck has about a 6:1 mechanical advantage, ensure that with all the linkage you still have something similar, unless you have the quadriceps of the governator, or you won't be able to push hard enough to stop very well. For motorcycles I always built the pedals with about 9:1. Also, from the photos it appears the clearance is tight on the left clevis to the crossmember. Not sure if its part of the question but the brake line routing is puzzling, almost as if there is no flexible line to compensate for the torque tube travel. That will be awkward...

[1931 flamingo]

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Some of the Model A guys use the brake cross shaft (similar to what's pictured) to activate the cyl when they mount on the right side of tranny because battery mounted on the left and probably don't want to spend 300+ for battery box with cyl mount.
Paul in CT

[gearhead1952]

I did a similar setup on my 34.

[zzlegend]

That looks very decent. Should work fine.

[alchemy]

Definitely need to replace that brake line. CANNOT run solid from the frame or master to the torque tube. It will last about 20 miles before it breaks.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by alchemy

Definitely need to replace that brake line. CANNOT run solid from the frame or master to the torque tube. It will last about 20 miles before it breaks.

Good catch! DD

[firerod]

Thanks for the advice. I will run all new brake lines.

[Marvin/TN]

And maybe a 10 psi check valve if the master cyl doesn't have one built in.

[Andy]

The main bracket is the stock bellcrank bracket for the mechanical brakes. It would have been nice if there was room for the emrrgency brake as well. Thet is a company making a conversion with the same idea and layout.

[firerod]

I forgot all about the e-brake. Any ideas?

[SofaKing]

You can either use the original 1940 mechanical parking brake and adapt it to the 32 lever, or fit a later parking brake lever or you could try a line lock type set up that locks pedal pressure in the lines keeping the brakes engaged. Depends on taste and budget, like everything.

[raybee]

Line lock is not a good substitute for an emergency brake. They can leak down and not hold. Ray