My new 1938 Tudor

[36coupe]

I bought a 38 last night
67000 original miles painted once in 72
Made about 50 miles when she lost power
Thought it was the fuel pump
Changed that and and it ran great until I got about 5 miles and lost power again
Idel okay but sputters and hesitates over 30

Any ideas
Ill post Picts

[36coupe]

[Tinker]

Nice 38. Skip Coil and a tested condenser time.

[oldford2]

Do the easy things first, disassemble and clean carb innards. If you see sediment in the carb bowl it means dirt from the tank or line. Change to another coil and condenser. Then try. How hot was it when this happened? I thought Nova Scotia was up by the North Pole.

John

[ford38v8]

Lindsay, Contact Skip Haney in Florida for a rebuilt coil. His rebuilts are better than original, and are show quality as well. The cause of your breakdown was the old coil heating up and shorting. Once it cooled down sufficiently, it fired up for you again till it heated up again. Don't even think about any other coil, use Haneys. He will advise on the correct condenser to use with his coils also.

Skip Haney www.fordcollector.com
Remanufactured coils and high volume modified water pumps for flatheads

[40cpe]

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That is a nice looking car.

It sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but it could be ignition, too. When it starts to run badly, stop engine, pull a spark plug wire and hold the connection about 1/4 inch from the plug connection. Crank engine over with ignition switch on and you should see a strong spark. If weak and yellow you could have ignition problems.

If ignition seems OK, disconnect fuel line from carburetor, place fuel line in a container of some sort and crank engine over WITH IGNITION OFF. You should see strong pulses of gas as the engine turns over. Weak dribbles indicate fuel problems. Since the pump is new, consider stopped up fuel lines (likely if the car has set up for long periods), leaks allowing air to be pulled into the pump instead of fuel, or a worn fuel pump push rod.

Give us more information if these suggestions don't point you to a cause.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Wow! A nice looking survivor. I think the coil, condensor and gas delivery suggestions already made are your best things to check first.
I would not leave my driveway with any of my old Fords without a coil rewound by Skip Haney. No matter how nice those original coils look, internally the insulations used back in the day have deteriorated. Once expansion occures from the effects of heating, windings will begin shorting out.

[41panelmark]

Nice one!!!

[36coupe]

I will have to do the coils
It will sit and idel for ever and rev up with no load but does want to go very far.
Seems like fuel. I borrowed a pump diaphram and it didn't change. The diaphram in the pump looked new.


I flushed the cooling system and and engine. I was hesitant about the stirring up oil sludge but did did 2 changes in a row, both came out dirty and now looks clean. The coolant was foamy and brown.

I have to adjust the brakes better.

There is a great story with the car which I will tell later!
Thanks

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by oldford2

Do the easy things first, disassemble and clean carb innards. If you see sediment in the carb bowl it means dirt from the tank or line. Change to another coil and condenser. Then try. How hot was it when this happened? I thought Nova Scotia was up by the North Pole.

John

I'll pull the carb and check it.
The car was running cool.
Found temp sender laying on top the head not hooked up.
We are having a hot summer which is totally bearable compared to points south

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

That is a nice looking car.

It sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but it could be ignition, too. When it starts to run badly, stop engine, pull a spark plug wire and hold the connection about 1/4 inch from the plug connection. Crank engine over with ignition switch on and you should see a strong spark. If weak and yellow you could have ignition problems.

If ignition seems OK, disconnect fuel line from carburetor, place fuel line in a container of some sort and crank engine over WITH IGNITION OFF. You should see strong pulses of gas as the engine turns over. Weak dribbles indicate fuel problems. Since the pump is new, consider stopped up fuel lines (likely if the car has set up for long periods), leaks allowing air to be pulled into the pump instead of fuel, or a worn fuel pump push rod.

Give us more information if these suggestions don't point you to a cause.

I blew air back to the tank and watched the pump pull fuel back to glass bowl.
It almost seems like it is missing at times.
A couple of times I barely hit the starter and it fired right up but not most times.

[BABAR40]

Congratulations on a nice sedan! Fordbarn to the rescue!

[felix37]

Nice find! Drive and enjoy it!

[Gumpy]

Nice looking car, looks like it will be a great driver!

[Steves46]

That's a real beauty! I'm sure you will be able to resolve your issue soon.

[36coupe]

I stripped down the carb and it was fine. I am running a little rich.
Do I lower the float to lean out the carb some?
I went 5 miles and it worked great and then started to run poorly and stalled. I had to wait a while for it to cool down and then made it home. Thought the problem was the choke coming on a little bit causing it to run rich.
The next drive it stalled in the neighbours driveway and and we checked the voltage at the coil and it was 3 volt and no spark rolling over.
I still think I have a coil overheating problem and a minor problem of the carb running rich.

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by 36coupe

\ voltage at the coil and it was 3 volt and no spark rolling over.

I think you have found your problem

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

I think you have found your problem

What would cause only 3 volts at coil?
I'm a little baffled.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by 36coupe

What would cause only 3 volts at coil?
I'm a little baffled.

Lindsay, 3 to 4 Volts at the coil is correct. You have a resistor up over the steering column on the dash. The function of that resistor is to reduce the voltage going to your coil. Bite the bullet and get a rebuilt coil from Skip.

One thing at a time. Don't mess with the carburetor, it has nothing to do with your coil problem and will only confound diagnosis for those of us who are trying to help you.

[supereal]

All old cars, particularly those which have set for a very long time, need a fuel filter in the line as close to the tank as possible. Today's gas is a good solvent, and will loosen sediment and varnish which will impact the whole fuel system. Inline filters are not expensive, or hard to install. Install barb connectors on the cut ends of the fuel line to prevent fuel or air leaks. The filters have expanded ends for the same purpose. Carry an extra in the car at all times if the one in the fuel line clogs. Most "barn find" cars will go thru several filters until the system is free. The alternative is to remove the tank and have it cleaned, which is a big job.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Lindsay, 3 to 4 Volts at the coil is correct. You have a resistor up over the steering column on the dash. The function of that resistor is to reduce the voltage going to your coil. Bite the bullet and get a rebuilt coil from Skip.
Is 2.7-3 volts okay
Yes I need to do the coil.

One thing at a time. Don't mess with the carburetor, it has nothing to do with your coil problem and will only confound diagnosis for those of us who are trying to help you.

Carb is burning rich, the PO rebuilt it, not sure of the rebuild quality.
I plan to check the float setting if that will cure the rich burning.

Originally Posted by supereal

All old cars, particularly those which have set for a very long time, need a fuel filter in the line as close to the tank as possible. Today's gas is a good solvent, and will loosen sediment and varnish which will impact the whole fuel system. Inline filters are not expensive, or hard to install. Install barb connectors on the cut ends of the fuel line to prevent fuel or air leaks. The filters have expanded ends for the same purpose. Carry an extra in the car at all times if the one in the fuel line clogs. Most "barn find" cars will go thru several filters until the system is free. The alternative is to remove the tank and have it cleaned, which is a big job.

I plan to run a see through filter back by the tank at first so I can see how much stuff I collect. The sight glass gathered a little bit. Might steam the tank and install a 6v pump for priming as I go.


Another question
I have a new choke knob to install. How is the rod attached to the knob rod. Just pull it apart or maybe use heat?
Thanks for help!

[Snouts out]

Just pull it apart using vice grips and dab of WD-40.

[FlatheadTed]

Try the flex line to the pump also set up a test tin in the passengers floor with gas, to diagnose if its a issue prior to the pump .Ted

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

Try the flex line to the pump also set up a test tin in the passengers floor with gas, to diagnose if its a issue prior to the pump .Ted

I blew air back to tank and it took a prime no problem. I reinstalled my original pump and it filled the glass bowl in no time. Fuel delivery seems fine, although the carb is little on the rich side.
I plan to install a filter at the tank, probably a 6 v pump back at the tank for prime and maybe take the tank off and clean it and paint it.


I need to rebuild the coil.

New caps and points are installed by PO.
I need to find out how to remove the distributor.

[TonyM]

Looks good. I always loved the 1938 Ford.

21 Stud or 24 Stud?
Very early 1938 production came with the 21 stud if I remember correctly.

Good luck with your new car.

[FlatheadTed]

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I like the 38 too ,Left mine on the farm ,It does sound like a coil distributor problem if no spark on roller over .You run a temporary jump wire past the dash resistor and see it that does any thing ,

[ford38v8]

Lindsay, Ford made no provision for replacement of the choke knob. You may cut the old shaft to remove the assembly from the car, then use a vise and pliers to work the remaining shaft off for replacement.

As you are experiencing a rich burn, there seems to be no reason at the present time to be concerned with too little fuel delivery, but yes, those problems may develop in the future.

There are several causes of black appearing plugs: You may have a fuel pump that has an extra strong spring. This will cause an over pressure condition which can flood the carburetor and therefore the engine, accompanied by an external leakage from the carburetor. You can check the delivery pressure with a gage.

The float may be set too high as you suggested, and while you are in there with the float, check that your inlet needle and seat are both metal, not fiber or rubber.

The idle mixture screws may be out of adjustment. Turn them all the way in, then out 3/4 turn, and while the engine is idling (warm), set each to the sweet spot.

The air cleaner may present a restriction to air flow. Check to see that the previous owner hadn't stuffed rags in it.

Lastly, but first order of business is to confirm that your ignition system is functioning properly. This means the coil, but also the distributor. You say the previous owner changed the points, but this job should be done on a distributor machine. Guess what? Skip Haney does distributors. Send him yours to confirm the setup and timing. He should have your coil available to do the complete ignition job for you.

Removal of the distributor is easy, but can be a knuckle buster if you aren't careful.
Use a piece of corrugated cardboard behind the radiator to prevent blood stains on the fins.
Swing away the bales from the distributor caps, and move the caps with plug wires clear.
Remove the bolts holding the distributor to the block, and pull the distributor straight out.
On reassembly, the tang on the end of the distributor will go easily into the slot on the camshaft if aligned correctly. Look closely at the tang and you will see the offset, which will bind if positioned 180º out. For this reason then , do not bolt it in place until it fits snug to the block by hand.

Now, after typing all the above, I'll say that you'd do better by reading about it in my favorite book: Get a MoToRs Manual that is no newer than the 1950 Edition. The newer editions omit valuable information you may need in the future. This book is available online for a very reasonable sum of maybe 20 or 30 US Dollars.

[Snouts out]

I just did the choke & throttle rods on my 38 standard ,no cutting involved.Disconnect the rod from the carb & push through the dash.See my original post for the rest of the process,while your at it,replace the rubber dash grommets.

[Bill]

Goes to show that even in Nova Scotia "They are still out there". Pay attention when the barners tell you that your problem is coil related....it is. Skip Haney in Punta Gorda Fl. has the cure. Been there several times the place is a trip back in time! When GM is there even more so---right JM35? Bill

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by TonyM

Looks good. I always loved the 1938 Ford.

21 Stud or 24 Stud?
Very early 1938 production came with the 21 stud if I remember correctly.
Good luck with your new car.

24 stud the head casting is C7RA-A Holley 94

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

I like the 38 too ,Left mine on the farm ,It does sound like a coil distributor problem if no spark on roller over .You run a temporary jump wire past the dash resistor and see it that does any thing ,

Yes we tried that and nothing happen, straight from the battery

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Lindsay, Ford made no provision for replacement of the choke knob. You may cut the old shaft to remove the assembly from the car, then use a vise and pliers to work the remaining shaft off for replacement.

As you are experiencing a rich burn, there seems to be no reason at the present time to be concerned with too little fuel delivery, but yes, those problems may develop in the future.

There are several causes of black appearing plugs: You may have a fuel pump that has an extra strong spring. This will cause an over pressure condition which can flood the carburetor and therefore the engine, accompanied by an external leakage from the carburetor. You can check the delivery pressure with a gage.

The float may be set too high as you suggested, and while you are in there with the float, check that your inlet needle and seat are both metal, not fiber or rubber.

The idle mixture screws may be out of adjustment. Turn them all the way in, then out 3/4 turn, and while the engine is idling (warm), set each to the sweet spot.

The air cleaner may present a restriction to air flow. Check to see that the previous owner hadn't stuffed rags in it.

Lastly, but first order of business is to confirm that your ignition system is functioning properly. This means the coil, but also the distributor. You say the previous owner changed the points, but this job should be done on a distributor machine. Guess what? Skip Haney does distributors. Send him yours to confirm the setup and timing. He should have your coil available to do the complete ignition job for you.

Removal of the distributor is easy, but can be a knuckle buster if you aren't careful.
Use a piece of corrugated cardboard behind the radiator to prevent blood stains on the fins.
Swing away the bales from the distributor caps, and move the caps with plug wires clear.
Remove the bolts holding the distributor to the block, and pull the distributor straight out.
On reassembly, the tang on the end of the distributor will go easily into the slot on the camshaft if aligned correctly. Look closely at the tang and you will see the offset, which will bind if positioned 180º out. For this reason then , do not bolt it in place until it fits snug to the block by hand.

Now, after typing all the above, I'll say that you'd do better by reading about it in my favorite book: Get a MoToRs Manual that is no newer than the 1950 Edition. The newer editions omit valuable information you may need in the future. This book is available online for a very reasonable sum of maybe 20 or 30 US Dollars.

Okay thanks, I feel good about the fuel, cold the car rolls over one revolution and starts with out touching the gas. Plan to set the idle adjustment using a vacuum gauge
I can now picture in my head how it comes apart. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Snouts out

I just did the choke & throttle rods on my 38 standard ,no cutting involved.Disconnect the rod from the carb & push through the dash.See my original post for the rest of the process,while your at it,replace the rubber dash grommets.

Thanks tonight's project.

Originally Posted by Bill

Goes to show that even in Nova Scotia "They are still out there". Pay attention when the barners tell you that your problem is coil related....it is. Skip Haney in Punta Gorda Fl. has the cure. Been there several times the place is a trip back in time! When GM is there even more so---right JM35? Bill

It been dinged once and has a couple bad patches in the tool tray but the rest is amazing. The interior is nice. The under carriage is very clean. I'll post some more pictures.
Maybe I'll send the whole unit down and get her done.

One thing is it starts running rough before it dies. I alway though that a coil would go from working to not working and not be run rough before it dies.

[40cpe]

36coupe, It looks like you still have the original hood support to hold the hood open. Do yourself a favor and remove it and fabricate a hood prop near the radiator. It is very easy for someone to pull down on the hood before releasing the support. When that happens the hood will be kinked along with the stainless steel strip. Those stainless strips for the left side are almost impossible to find in undamaged condition.

As many times as you are under the hood with the ignition problems, even you are likely to get in a hurry and pull down on the hood before releasing the support.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

36coupe, It looks like you still have the original hood support to hold the hood open. Do yourself a favor and remove it and fabricate a hood prop near the radiator. It is very easy for someone to pull down on the hood before releasing the support. When that happens the hood will be kinked along with the stainless steel strip. Those stainless strips for the left side are almost impossible to find in undamaged condition.

As many times as you are under the hood with the ignition problems, even you are likely to get in a hurry and pull down on the hood before releasing the support.

The trucker that hauled the car east already did that 4 or 5 years ago. It had a rough weld patch job done.

[36coupe]

[Snouts out]

A thing of beauty,is a joy forever!

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by Snouts out

A thing of beauty,is a joy forever!

Might the first running old car I ever aquired, kind of running.

[36coupe]

Okay
Update
I plan to send the complete distributed to Skip next week.
I had a friend give me another coil.
I installed that, drained the tank, it was clean and installed a filter just forward of the tank. The original fuel pump is back on and pumps great.
I adjusted the brakes and now have fine brakes, got it on the first try, brakes straight.
Set the carb using a vacuum gauge, had about 18 inches.
It is cool here tonight and after driving 10 miles or so it started to miss and lose power, bogging from take off. I headed for home and while the car was idling in the driveway I checked the voltage at the coil and had 3.7 volts. Sounded fine. Then it turned itself off and would not start.
The question is could the problem be the condenser?
The closest condenser napa has in Canada is Edmonton, about 3000 miles away and I have to pay shipping.
Any ideas?
2 coil with the same issues?

[ford38v8]

Lindsay, yes, it certainly could be a condenser problem, but your description of the manner in which it fails repeatedly convinces me that it's the coil. As a demonstration of the way it goes, all us old timers (before we gained the wisdom of the universe) used to carry a cardboard box full of old coils in the trunk. When the car would stall and not start again, we'd grab one from the box, get it installed, put the bad one in the box and drive away. When we were kids, we never figured out that how the bad coils got good again! It was as simple as letting it cool off.

Tell you what... Go out right now and start your engine. Your coil has had a chance to cool off now and will be OK till it gets hot again. When it fails again, check for spark at a spark plug: Pull a plug wire and hold it up near a head bolt while cranking the engine over with ignition on. You'll see the difference between a good snappy blue spark and a weak orange spark.

And you will still be wise to have a couple spare condensers on hand. Skip will advise which one to get.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Lindsay, yes, it certainly could be a condenser problem, but your description of the manner in which it fails repeatedly convinces me that it's the coil. As a demonstration of the way it goes, all us old timers (before we gained the wisdom of the universe) used to carry a cardboard box full of old coils in the trunk. When the car would stall and not start again, we'd grab one from the box, get it installed, put the bad one in the box and drive away. When we were kids, we never figured out that how the bad coils got good again! It was as simple as letting it cool off.

Tell you what... Go out right now and start your engine. Your coil has had a chance to cool off now and will be OK till it gets hot again. When it fails again, check for spark at a spark plug: Pull a plug wire and hold it up near a head bolt while cranking the engine over with ignition on. You'll see the difference between a good snappy blue spark and a weak orange spark.

And you will still be wise to have a couple spare condensers on hand. Skip will advise which one to get.

Yep, it started.

Another question on the headlight switch
One click CW park lights and tail lights
One click CCW headlights and no taillight
Two clicks CCW nothing
Brake lights work fine

I guess the problem must be in the switch at the bottom of the column?

[40cpe]

I just checked my '38 Deluxe, it has only on click CCW, and it lights up the headlights and tail lights.

Wasn't the high beam in the headlight switch on some of the earlier models?

[ford38v8]

Sounds logical to me!

[36coupe]

I'm looking for a picture of the tools and jack that would come with the 38.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by 36coupe

Yep, it started.

Another question on the headlight switch
One click CW park lights and tail lights - yep. parking lights/dash light switch under dash, and rear lights.
One click CCW headlights and no taillight - all on 38 t. Floor switch for high low.
Two clicks CCW nothing - all on, high beams for 36,... my 38 doesn't have a ccw two position. One click left and a floor dimmer.
Brake lights work fine - isolated system.

I guess the problem must be in the switch at the bottom of the column?

- maybe. Might be the harness too. Hard to find a correct aftermarket harness for 38.

....but as noted above. Does a passenger 38 have a floor dimmer. The truck does. Trucks usually follow car systems.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by Tinker

- maybe. Might be the harness too. Hard to find a correct aftermarket harness for 38.

....but as noted above. Does a passenger 38 have a floor dimmer. The truck does. Trucks usually follow car systems.

It has a new harness at the bottom of the steering column and a floor dimmer. Looking at the old harness I think I can repair the minor details on this one.
I have taillights in park but not in the headlight position so I am thinking it is the switch at the bottom of the column. Not sure, looking for ideas about the way the contact work or don't work.

[36coupe]

Update
I got my coil back from Skip and now it runs fine, put 500-600 miles on it since then.
Had to replace the speedo cable as it twisted off from being dry.
I was dreading trying to figure out the electrical gremlins. I took the headlight switch apart and after checking the old harness realized 2 wires where plugged in the wrong spades, switched and have headlights and taillights.
The gas gauge was also probmatic to say the least. I unhooked the wire at the gauge and sending unit and had power on both ends!
Anywheres that there is electrical tape seems to be a potential problem. Where the wire harness meets the fire wall had all the wires bundled together and 3 of the wires had no insulation on the bullet connectors and where putting 6 volt to the sending unit wire. Another fairly easy fix, could have been a big problem.
The sealed beams headlights behind the teardrops are a waste of time. That needs to be addressed.
I scored 5 extra rims and hubcaps and some brake drums. I have extra coil I might send out and started rebuilding an extra distributor.
With the distributor where can I get a leather brake for the advance unit?

[corvette8n]

Nice looking car, keep plugging away at the problems

[Tinker]

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Originally Posted by 36coupe

Update
I got my coil back from Skip and now it runs fine, put 500-600 miles on it since then.

I have extra coil I might send out...

Sounds like you are a Skip believer now

Glad you are getting it all put together!!!

[ford38v8]

Lindsay, Good to hear from you again, and glad you've been able to work out some of the kinks! You should consider a set of new harnesses as you've found so many problems with the old ones, the next problem is just around the corner. Someone said the '38 harness is hard to find, but I disagree. There are multiple choices for good quality harnesses for all year model Fords. Rhode Island wiring service is one of the best.

Your headlights should not be sealed beam, but rather, replaceable bulbs behind the lens. Look closer and you will see the difference. Replacement of the harnesses will greatly improve that issue also, as the multiple connectors develop resistance, and should be assembled clean with dialectric grease or soldered. The hi/lo beam switch is another cause of resistance that can be replaced for an improvement. Grounds for the lights should be addressed also. Failing these improvements, you can install a headlight relay system, using the original system to power relays located near the headlights. Shouldn't need this if all other issues are addressed.

The leather brake pad inside your distributor will last forever. Just turn it 90º or flip it over, and it's good to go another 50,000 miles.

Did you find the inside handles? Dennis Carpenter makes these. Be sure to specify the DeLuxe model, as the Standards are chrome.

Have you replaced the hood prop with a safer one? The hood will break again very easily if you don't, and if you break the side trim piece as well, you'll never find a replacement for that piece. It is of an alloy that Ford called "Rustless Steel" and can be restored easily, even welded if broken, but with a slight color difference if welded.

[Bill OH]

I would give attention t the connections on the ballast resistor located under the dash on the firewall. Remove the 4 nuts, clean the contact surfaces with either a file or fine sand paper and then install a nut on each stud followed by the clean connections on the ballast resistor, then add the connections for the two wires and finish with a nut on each stud. Tighten both nuts. Helps to eliminate voltage drop. You might also want to clean the contacts in the ignition switch. Learned this on FB.

I retired my 38 with Rhode Island products - excellent.

Fuel line is 5/16ths copper. No problems for the past 24 yrs. I found my steel line got thin from its age and I replaced with copper. I have an inboard boat with copper fuel line from tank to engine with flare fittings - boat is a 1971 - no problems.

I lubriplate the housings for the brake cables. I pull the emergency handle on 2 notches, jack up each wheel, turn the adjuster at the top of backing plate until I can just turn the wheel with both hands! then release the emergency brake and try the wheel rotation again. The result is I can slid the wheels on bare road. Works as well as hyd.

I also had a 38 two dr in high school.

Enjoy - nice Ford.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Bill OH

I would give attention t the connections on the ballast resistor located under the dash on the firewall. Remove the 4 nuts, clean the contact surfaces with either a file or fine sand paper and then install a nut on each stud followed by the clean connections on the ballast resistor, then add the connections for the two wires and finish with a nut on each stud. Tighten both nuts. Helps to eliminate voltage drop. You might also want to clean the contacts in the ignition switch. Learned this on FB.

I retired my 38 with Rhode Island products - excellent.

Fuel line is 5/16ths copper. No problems for the past 24 yrs. I found my steel line got thin from its age and I replaced with copper. I have an inboard boat with copper fuel line from tank to engine with flare fittings - boat is a 1971 - no problems.

I lubriplate the housings for the brake cables. I pull the emergency handle on 2 notches, jack up each wheel, turn the adjuster at the top of backing plate until I can just turn the wheel with both hands! then release the emergency brake and try the wheel rotation again. The result is I can slid the wheels on bare road. Works as well as hyd.

I also had a 38 two dr in high school.

Enjoy - nice Ford.

Bill, your advice re the ballast resistor is good, many guys miss that. However, that advice seems not needed in this case, as his juice to the coil is sufficient.

I do strongly disagree with your advice to use copper fuel line. The original equipment was copper plated steel, (and is still available) and there is an excellent cupro alloy line available today, but pure copper is dangerous for a fuel line, even though some have used it for years without incident.

The '38 handbrake actuating the cables the same as the foot brake makes it easy to adjust the brakes. Good shortcuts are worthy of repeating often.

[36coupe]

Thanks
I will continue cleaning contacts.

[El Rat]

I have a standard 38 coupe'. Bought a new body harness and kept the original underdash wiring. Seems my car was a cross-over between a 38 and 39. Regardless my 38 has the two piece wiring harness. Body harness new and under dash original...when I pushed in the cigarette lighter the under dash harness caught fire. Replace your wires! My new set came from Tyree Harris...