Muffler clamp whats the secret

[sphooch]

HI guys could use some advice here, i'm trying to get that muffler clamp around the muffler pipe and manifold connection. I have Les Andrews book , I have it in the correct position, and I have the copper gasket in place. just can't get it to mate up correctly. and how long are the bolts?? think i should drop the tail pipe so as to change the angle slightly?? I only have two hands is that the problem?? any advice is as always greatly appreciated. thanks THE HOOCH

[TMarsh]

Put a hydraulic jack under it, that helps when you are by yourself.

[Mike Peters]

According to the Brattons catalog: Muffler bolts are 1 15/16" long. Also states that a 3 foot piece of pipe can be used to bend the muffler pipe where it attaches to the manifold so that it is in alignment with the manifold. In order for the connection to seal, there has to be a 360 degree mating surface.
I've tried bending the muffler to line up with the manifold and I can say that it really does work,, but be slow and careful.

[Mike Peters]

And yes, put a jack under the muffler to hold it in place while attaching.

[Ray in La Mesa]

The copper gasket is not original and the clamp is not designed for the added thickness. Make double sure the flange fits tight, the cheapo mufflers usually don't have a good flange. A jack under the front is your third hand. I use orange high temp silicone on the flange and 3 layers of heavy duty aluminum foil on the outside under the clamp,cut & folded into a 1' strip. The Aries muffler is much better even though it is more expensive, it also is made to Ford specs so cuts down on back pressure so engine runs cooler.

[CarlG]

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Throw away that copper gasket.

[Ayers1]

I used a floor jack under the bend to hold it in place, then used a stock bolt on the hardest to reach position. I used a longer bolt on the other side and tightened them down. Once everything was set I removed the long bolt and put the 2nd stock one in. That was with the gasket.

[Y-Blockhead]

Not original but Snyder's has a nice "NO Nut" clamp that sure makes life a whole lot easier... https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8536&cat=41736

I smear a little exhaust sealant https://www.amazon.com/Dynomax-35958...C151&sr=8-11on on the joint, no copper gasket.

[Conaway2]

As others have said, don’t use the copper gasket.

I recently used a MAPP torch to heat the bend the muffler inlet pipe enough so I could bend it to better align with the exhaust manifold. The muffler was out of the car for this.

I also use the short inlet pipe Brattons sells that drops inside the muffler at the inlet flange to help alignment with the manifold.

Be sure to have a good quality clamp - I like the one from Brattons. Also, some club members have taken their mufflers to a local muffler shop to have them re-flanged and been very happy with the results.

Good luck -
Jim

[nkaminar]

All good advice above. I can only add to put the clamp on snug but not tight then remove the jack and wiggle the exhaust pipe to get the best fit. Then tighten the clamp.

[sphooch]

)K guys thanks alot , the copper gasket is going and i'll give it anther shot soon. if you don't here back from me I GOT IT DONE THE HOOCH

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Not original but Snyder's has a nice "NO Nut" clamp that sure makes life a whole lot easier... https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8536&cat=41736

I smear a little exhaust sealant https://www.amazon.com/Dynomax-35958...C151&sr=8-11on on the joint, no copper gasket.

Those clamps were first made on this side of the world (RHD). The originals are more than a PITA. I simply tap one side of the clamp for a Helicoil and use shorter bolts.
The originals are almost impossible to position correctly and still have the clutch operable. Definitely NOT one of henry's better ideas!

[Bill G]

Don't forget that the top and bottom portions of the clamp are different. If you put it on upside down, that could explain some difficulty.

[Vic in E-TN]

If you decide to use stainless steel bolts in the Snyders clamp you will be making a big mistake. The SS will get longer than Grade 2 or 5 bolts at the high temperatures in this application and could relax the clamping giving you problems. It will go through some kind of changes with the heat cycles and cause galling of the stainless threads making removal difficult. Years ago I installed stainless steel nut and bolt in this area and getting it apart was a real problem.

[Ray in La Mesa]

I also cheat a bit on the bolts. I insert the bolts into one side of the clamp and braise them to it, making sure they're straight. Then assemble it normally. only have two pieces to hold while adding nuts. Not for show obviously but you can't even see what I did.

[burner31]

Originally Posted by Bill G

Don't forget that the top and bottom portions of the clamp are different. If you put it on upside down, that could explain some difficulty.

So true...

[Ivan in southeast va.]

I like using aluminum foil to seal the two pipes together.

[DHZIEMAN]

I was looking thru these posts to see if I should post my aluminum foil and muffler sealer combination to deal with the pipe to manifold connection. Have had mine working now with no leaks at the coupling now for about 3 years! And visually, it looks stock! The copper gasket is in my junk box!

[vern hodgson]

That little piece of pipe is a waste of money. IMHO.

[[email protected]]

Some of the repro muffler clamps have to have the v groove at the ends be ground deeper with a Dremel or cut off wheel. Visually look at how the clamps mate up together and make any modifications to make sure they mate and make a perfect round hole for the manifold and pipe.