The Ford Barn

Krylon32 · 06-29-2023, 09:17 AM

I put NOS 32-34 ends on my tie rod and drag link on my 32 pickup. The new owner called this morning asking me about adjustment. I've forgot what is the adjustment procedure when installing the ends on the studs?

DavidG · 06-29-2023, 01:53 PM

With the wheels off the ground, unloosen the nuts on the bolts (first remove the cotter pins if present on the nut and in the shank of the bolt) and in theory the rod can be rotated forward or back by hand to change the toe-in. Unless you are Superman, the use of a pipe wrench or vise-grip pliers may be necessary. A piece of 1/8" rubber sheeting in the jaws of the wrench/pliers will protect the rod from being gouged.

cas3 · 06-29-2023, 02:15 PM

If you are talking about the screw in ends, bottom them out, and then back off one turn

Krylon32 · 06-29-2023, 02:49 PM

Thanks David but I'm talking about the screw in ends.

petehoovie · 06-29-2023, 03:43 PM

Bored&Stroked · 06-29-2023, 04:53 PM

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I never bottom out the ends, I keep tightening them while manually rotating the tie-rod on the ball to see how tight they are getting.

I usually tighten them until I can barely rotate the tie-rod by hand (again, on the ball, not the center shaft). I've always done it this way, seems to work out just fine. Also, I have plenty of grease on all the parts (during assembly) before I do the above.

Also, one should acquire a special tool that goes into the end-slot that you can put a wrench on - otherwise you'll not be able to get a screwdriver in there (or use it once things are tight). Usually, one has to turn the wheels to the extents (either direction), to get the tool into place.

And don't forget to put in the cotter-keys . . . is something that is easy to forget about.

DavidG · 06-29-2023, 05:27 PM

Good counsel!

Bored&Stroked · 06-29-2023, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Good counsel!

Thankyou Sir . . . every once in awhile I buy a clue! LOL

Flathead Fever · 06-29-2023, 08:53 PM

Modern tie rods balls have some stiffness to them when you move them from, side to side. I bet it would be difficult to spin the ball by hand. Used ones just flop around. Bored&Strokeds' procedure sounds good to me. Snug without locking them up. There are sockets that fit the slots in those tie rods ends and drag links. It speeds up the process, but they are not necessary. The phone company garage I was at opened in 1950, there was still some of those old tools laying around 60-years later They are not there anymore, will call them retirement gifts, besides there was nothing there they fit anymore. You can put some never seize on the tapered tie rod ends and the tie rod threads. It will make them come apart easier next time. Definitely use some on the spring perches. If you don't want your cotter pins rusting on your restorations, you can buy them in stainless, that way they will look new forever.

Here is a photo of tie rod adjusting tools for setting toe-in and Proto still makes drag link adjusting sockets in either a 3/4" wide tip or 15/16".

petehoovie · 06-29-2023, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flathead Fever

Here is a photo of tie rod adjusting tools for setting toe-in and Proto still makes drag link adjusting sockets in either a 3/4" wide tip or 15/16".

I don't think there is enough room on a '34 to accommodate this PROTO Tool on the tie rod end....

Flathead Fever · 06-30-2023, 04:13 PM

I went out to the garage, and you are correct, no way in hell that is fitting between the tie rod end and the brake backing plate. This was on my dads' 32 roadster with hydraulic brakes, a Mordrop dropped axle, later spindles... The truth is I have only done a couple Early Ford tie rods and I rebuilt the ends while they were off the car. The tool does fit the drag link, maybe that's why they call it a drag link socket and not a tie rod link socket. I learned something today. That "drag-link" socket is an old Snap-on. I think what I will do from now on is get a junk tie rod and cut the right and lefthand threaded ends off. The clamp them in a vise, thread the ends on and adjust the ball so they have a little resistance. Then install them on the tie rod with never seize so I can easily turn the rod to set the toe-in and then clamp the ends down. That way nothing gets scratched.

petehoovie · 06-30-2023, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flathead Fever

I went out to the garage, and you are correct, no way in hell that is fitting between the tie rod end and the brake backing plate. This was on my dads' 32 roadster with hydraulic brakes, a Mordrop dropped axle, later spindles... The truth is I have only done a couple Early Ford tie rods and I rebuilt the ends while they were off the car. The tool does fit the drag link, maybe that's why they call it a drag link socket and not a tie rod link socket. I learned something today. That "drag-link" socket is an old Snap-on. I think what I will do from now on is get a junk tie rod and cut the right and lefthand threaded ends off. The clamp them in a vise, thread the ends on and adjust the ball so they have a little resistance. Then install them on the tie rod with never seize so I can easily turn the rod to set the toe-in and then clamp the ends down. That way nothing gets scratched.

On my '34, I resorted to using a nickel grasped in the jaws of a Vice-Grip pliers as my "special tool"...

RB · 06-30-2023, 06:49 PM

I'm cheap, a flat washer works for me..

Graham Freeman · 07-01-2023, 11:15 PM

It took me 10min to make this tool out of a bit of 1 inch scrap flat bar 30 years ago.
Still works fine.IMG_5377.jpg

IMG_5376.JPG

IMG_5378.jpg

petehoovie · 07-01-2023, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham Freeman

It took me 10min to make this tool out of a bit of 1 inch scrap flat bar 30 years ago.
Still works fine.Attachment 519768

Nice!

Bored&Stroked · 07-02-2023, 08:56 AM

I like the one that uses a wrench on it - just can't find out where to buy one from.

Would be easy to take a 3/4"nut and fabricate/weld on a piece of "slot" material to it. This gives you enough room to fit it between the tie-rod end and the backing plate.

Robert/Texas · 07-02-2023, 09:53 AM

Bratton's catalog shows the tool, part # 4590 @ $5.25. I use one of these on my Model A's and early V8's.

DavidG · 07-02-2023, 11:31 AM

Third gen automotive also offers that tool used with a socket wrench.

Krylon32 · 07-02-2023, 01:05 PM

Isn't that tool useless for the tie rod ends, won't fit between the tie rod end and the 12 inch brakes?

DavidG · 07-02-2023, 01:25 PM

It's hardly useless. It's use is limited, however, to when the brake backing plates are removed or absent, as with building up a restored axle assembly.

06-29-2023, 09:17 AM	#1
Krylon32 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,489	32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment I put NOS 32-34 ends on my tie rod and drag link on my 32 pickup. The new owner called this morning asking me about adjustment. I've forgot what is the adjustment procedure when installing the ends on the studs?

06-29-2023, 01:53 PM	#2
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,102	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment With the wheels off the ground, unloosen the nuts on the bolts (first remove the cotter pins if present on the nut and in the shank of the bolt) and in theory the rod can be rotated forward or back by hand to change the toe-in. Unless you are Superman, the use of a pipe wrench or vise-grip pliers may be necessary. A piece of 1/8" rubber sheeting in the jaws of the wrench/pliers will protect the rod from being gouged.

06-29-2023, 02:15 PM	#3
cas3 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: sw minnesota Posts: 4,578	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment If you are talking about the screw in ends, bottom them out, and then back off one turn

06-29-2023, 02:49 PM	#4
Krylon32 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,489	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment Thanks David but I'm talking about the screw in ends.

06-29-2023, 03:43 PM	#5
petehoovie Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 8,156	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment __________________ The only thing nice about being imperfect is the joy it brings to others.... *"Silver rings, your butt! Them's washers!"* "We shot our way out of that town for a dollar's worth of steel holes!" - from 'The Wild Bunch' - 1969 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NReUd2_0u0

06-29-2023, 04:53 PM	#6
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,070	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I never bottom out the ends, I keep tightening them while manually rotating the tie-rod on the ball to see how tight they are getting. I usually tighten them until I can barely rotate the tie-rod by hand (again, on the ball, not the center shaft). I've always done it this way, seems to work out just fine. Also, I have plenty of grease on all the parts (during assembly) before I do the above. Also, one should acquire a special tool that goes into the end-slot that you can put a wrench on - otherwise you'll not be able to get a screwdriver in there (or use it once things are tight). Usually, one has to turn the wheels to the extents (either direction), to get the tool into place. And don't forget to put in the cotter-keys . . . is something that is easy to forget about. Last edited by Bored&Stroked; 06-29-2023 at 08:24 PM.

06-29-2023, 05:27 PM	#7
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,102	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment Good counsel!

06-30-2023, 06:49 PM	#13
RB Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: papillion nebraska Posts: 406	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment I'm cheap, a flat washer works for me..

07-01-2023, 11:15 PM	#14
Graham Freeman Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: New Zealand Posts: 298	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment It took me 10min to make this tool out of a bit of 1 inch scrap flat bar 30 years ago. Still works fine.IMG_5377.jpg IMG_5376.JPG IMG_5378.jpg

07-02-2023, 08:56 AM	#16
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,070	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment I like the one that uses a wrench on it - just can't find out where to buy one from. Would be easy to take a 3/4"nut and fabricate/weld on a piece of "slot" material to it. This gives you enough room to fit it between the tie-rod end and the backing plate.

07-02-2023, 09:53 AM	#17
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 681	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment Bratton's catalog shows the tool, part # 4590 @ $5.25. I use one of these on my Model A's and early V8's.

07-02-2023, 11:31 AM	#18
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,102	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment Third gen automotive also offers that tool used with a socket wrench.

07-02-2023, 01:05 PM	#19
Krylon32 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,489	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment Isn't that tool useless for the tie rod ends, won't fit between the tie rod end and the 12 inch brakes?

07-02-2023, 01:25 PM	#20
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,102	Re: 32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment It's hardly useless. It's use is limited, however, to when the brake backing plates are removed or absent, as with building up a restored axle assembly.