How to remove front top shackle bushing?

[Gary in La.]

Here is the complete KR Wilson tool set for this job. It may give you some ideas as to what you can make and how heavy duty the tools need to be.

[Old Col]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

.... I may try a little pounding but if not quickly successful will turn it over to the local old car garage with guys my age that have actually worked on these old cars to remove the old bushing and install the new stuff

....Hi again Henry, better order 2 sets of bushes then if the hammer method is your plan.....

PS, I am one of those guys who've spent all their working lives on early Fords.....good luck,Col,.

[Tinker]

Henry I hope the bones are hollowed out too much. It is fixable if it is.

Hey if the spring is something you want to update from your prior build I would suggest a eaton Detroit spring. Little spendy but a life time plus replacement. Spring for your money.

Keep on keeping on!

[fordor41]

I replaced mine on my '41 with moly impregnated nylon. Have been in for 19+ yrs and no sign of wear. If you have access to a lathe you can buy the material in rod form from McMaster-Carr and fab them any size you need.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Old Col

....Hi again Henry, better order 2 sets of bushes then if the hammer method is your plan.....

Any mention I made of hammering was only to remove the old bushings, not to install new ones. I will most likely let a competent garage do the whole thing once I get the parts in from C&G.

[Old Henry]

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Originally Posted by Tinker

Hey if the spring is something you want to update from your prior build I would suggest a eaton Detroit spring. Little spendy but a life time plus replacement. Spring for your money.
Keep on keeping on!

Can't think of any reason I'd replace that spring that's working just fine. If I did it would be with a stock spring but I don't see that happening in the foreseeable future. The spring and whole front end works just fine. On the 845 mile road trip we took last weekend it went down the road straight and smooth without any fighting of the steering wheel. Used to be if I loaded the back end way down it would want to wander a bit on the front end but I've put air adjustable shocks on the back to lift if up if that's ever a problem.

Thanks for the idea anyway.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Can't think of any reason I'd replace that spring that's working just fine. If I did it would be with a stock spring but I don't see that happening in the foreseeable future. The spring and whole front end works just fine. On the 845 mile road trip we took last weekend it went down the road straight and smooth without any fighting of the steering wheel. Used to be if I loaded the back end way down it would want to wander a bit on the front end but I've put air adjustable shocks on the back to lift if up if that's ever a problem.

Thanks for the idea anyway.

Henry, You would be amazed at the difference a good spring installed to your car would make. If you think it's "okay" now...

[bill h]

Get a spring shop to check your spring. Buy the picture it doesn't look to healthy. They can make you a spring if needed. It has to come apart anyway.

[waterboychuck]

I'm doing the same job on my 48 F1. I removed mine with a air hammer. It worked great.

[Henry Hopper]

Ive had success in the past when fitting bearings by freezing them first and warming the hub....the micro contraction and expansion of the two components made them a drop in fit.I would think a similar result may be obtained on fitting new shackle pin bushes.

I used liquid refrigerant to freeze the parts, as I have plenty in the service van with my job, but I guess leaving them in the freezer overnight would suffice.....worth a try I guess.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Henry Hopper

Ive had success in the past when fitting bearings by freezing them first and warming the hub....the micro contraction and expansion of the two components made them a drop in fit.I would think a similar result may be obtained on fitting new shackle pin bushes.

I used liquid refrigerant to freeze the parts, as I have plenty in the service van with my job, but I guess leaving them in the freezer overnight would suffice.....worth a try I guess.

This method would help but I don't think it would be the best method for this particular application. #1) it's spring steel- a guy does not want to get it red hot and 2) there is approximately a .005" press fit. The heat / freeze combination would not be enough for a 3/4" diameter sleeve.

[B-O-B]

Anti seize works for me on the 34 front shackle replacement.

[larrys40]

Originally Posted by Kube

Henry, You would be amazed at the difference a good spring installed to your car would make. If you think it's "okay" now...

Henry,
I agree with Kube. Most original front springs are shot. Fortunately NOS or good NORS ones are still around for 46-48's. As Kube said.. you are better off pressing in the studs. I prefer the originals as they are still around. They are hardened, some repros are soft. Admittedly this job is a piece of cake for me as I've done many and use a KR Wilson shackle/remover/install tool as prescribed/shown in another post. If you can find someone in your local group/area who has one that is my suggestion.

If you elect to try a new spring you will be glad you did.
Thanks,
Larry S

[Ralph Moore]

I heated my spring slightly and put the bushings outside to cool, temperature was about 30 below zero. Still a pain to put them in, even with an installation tool. Just not an easy way to do this.

[Mart]

The spring is the easy part.

You can get the end of the spring in the vice. Two suitable sockets and the bush will go in ok. The spring, (being a spring) will have some "give" which makes it easier.

I wouldn't do it on the car, though.

It's those pesky perches that cause me all the trouble.

Mart.

[Kerk]

I made 2 pieces to press/drive the old ones out and also press or drive the new ones in.. Threeaded the end so it would bottom out on the end of the new pin shaped to match the pin and bushing. Used an Arbor press on the spring and a hammer on the vehicle part. Same type for removal with the O.D. Under the 3/4 Dia. worked for me.

[Old Henry]

Got my parts in. I'll now turn it over to the pros with the right tools and equipment and experience and knowhow to make the change.

Thanks for all of your ideas. At this point, as in many of this kind of project, if I can pay someone else to do it right I'll do it. I can tell that some of you still get quite a kick out of these major repair challenges. My real joy is in just driving the wheels off and seeing where and how far I can coax Old Henry to go.

[Veeder]

I am so in the middle of this I wish I had Video taped the whole adventure!! Going on my 4th shackle as a result of damaging them :-) FUN FUN FUN

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Veeder

I am so in the middle of this I wish I had Video taped the whole adventure!! Going on my 4th shackle as a result of damaging them :-) FUN FUN FUN

It's actually quite an easy job with the proper tools. See post #21. That's the same set I have. Takes about 15 minutes to R&R a pin.

[TJ]

Henry, that spring is shot. Take a look at the main leaf as it starts to wrap around the shackle bushing. From all appearances it appears to be fractured. It looks like the only thing holding it in place is the second safety leaf. Let us know what the shop says about the spring. It wouldn't surprise me that the piece falls off after the bushing is removed.