The Ford Barn

36coupe · 07-31-2014, 03:33 PM

I'm looking for a picture of the tools and jack that would come with the 38.

Tinker · 07-31-2014, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 36coupe

Yep, it started.

Another question on the headlight switch
One click CW park lights and tail lights - yep. parking lights/dash light switch under dash, and rear lights.
One click CCW headlights and no taillight - all on 38 t. Floor switch for high low.
Two clicks CCW nothing - all on, high beams for 36,... my 38 doesn't have a ccw two position. One click left and a floor dimmer.
Brake lights work fine - isolated system.

I guess the problem must be in the switch at the bottom of the column?

- maybe. Might be the harness too. Hard to find a correct aftermarket harness for 38.

....but as noted above. Does a passenger 38 have a floor dimmer. The truck does. Trucks usually follow car systems.

36coupe · 08-01-2014, 04:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinker

- maybe. Might be the harness too. Hard to find a correct aftermarket harness for 38.

....but as noted above. Does a passenger 38 have a floor dimmer. The truck does. Trucks usually follow car systems.

It has a new harness at the bottom of the steering column and a floor dimmer. Looking at the old harness I think I can repair the minor details on this one.
I have taillights in park but not in the headlight position so I am thinking it is the switch at the bottom of the column. Not sure, looking for ideas about the way the contact work or don't work.

36coupe · 10-30-2014, 07:26 AM

Update
I got my coil back from Skip and now it runs fine, put 500-600 miles on it since then.
Had to replace the speedo cable as it twisted off from being dry.
I was dreading trying to figure out the electrical gremlins. I took the headlight switch apart and after checking the old harness realized 2 wires where plugged in the wrong spades, switched and have headlights and taillights.
The gas gauge was also probmatic to say the least. I unhooked the wire at the gauge and sending unit and had power on both ends!
Anywheres that there is electrical tape seems to be a potential problem. Where the wire harness meets the fire wall had all the wires bundled together and 3 of the wires had no insulation on the bullet connectors and where putting 6 volt to the sending unit wire. Another fairly easy fix, could have been a big problem.
The sealed beams headlights behind the teardrops are a waste of time. That needs to be addressed.
I scored 5 extra rims and hubcaps and some brake drums. I have extra coil I might send out and started rebuilding an extra distributor.
With the distributor where can I get a leather brake for the advance unit?

corvette8n · 10-30-2014, 10:00 AM

Nice looking car, keep plugging away at the problems

Tinker · 10-30-2014, 10:20 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Quote:

Originally Posted by 36coupe

Update
I got my coil back from Skip and now it runs fine, put 500-600 miles on it since then.

I have extra coil I might send out...

Sounds like you are a Skip believer now

Glad you are getting it all put together!!!

ford38v8 · 10-30-2014, 11:39 AM

Lindsay, Good to hear from you again, and glad you've been able to work out some of the kinks! You should consider a set of new harnesses as you've found so many problems with the old ones, the next problem is just around the corner. Someone said the '38 harness is hard to find, but I disagree. There are multiple choices for good quality harnesses for all year model Fords. Rhode Island wiring service is one of the best.

Your headlights should not be sealed beam, but rather, replaceable bulbs behind the lens. Look closer and you will see the difference. Replacement of the harnesses will greatly improve that issue also, as the multiple connectors develop resistance, and should be assembled clean with dialectric grease or soldered. The hi/lo beam switch is another cause of resistance that can be replaced for an improvement. Grounds for the lights should be addressed also. Failing these improvements, you can install a headlight relay system, using the original system to power relays located near the headlights. Shouldn't need this if all other issues are addressed.

The leather brake pad inside your distributor will last forever. Just turn it 90º or flip it over, and it's good to go another 50,000 miles.

Did you find the inside handles? Dennis Carpenter makes these. Be sure to specify the DeLuxe model, as the Standards are chrome.

Have you replaced the hood prop with a safer one? The hood will break again very easily if you don't, and if you break the side trim piece as well, you'll never find a replacement for that piece. It is of an alloy that Ford called "Rustless Steel" and can be restored easily, even welded if broken, but with a slight color difference if welded.

Bill OH · 10-30-2014, 03:07 PM

I would give attention t the connections on the ballast resistor located under the dash on the firewall. Remove the 4 nuts, clean the contact surfaces with either a file or fine sand paper and then install a nut on each stud followed by the clean connections on the ballast resistor, then add the connections for the two wires and finish with a nut on each stud. Tighten both nuts. Helps to eliminate voltage drop. You might also want to clean the contacts in the ignition switch. Learned this on FB.

I retired my 38 with Rhode Island products - excellent.

Fuel line is 5/16ths copper. No problems for the past 24 yrs. I found my steel line got thin from its age and I replaced with copper. I have an inboard boat with copper fuel line from tank to engine with flare fittings - boat is a 1971 - no problems.

I lubriplate the housings for the brake cables. I pull the emergency handle on 2 notches, jack up each wheel, turn the adjuster at the top of backing plate until I can just turn the wheel with both hands! then release the emergency brake and try the wheel rotation again. The result is I can slid the wheels on bare road. Works as well as hyd.

I also had a 38 two dr in high school.

Enjoy - nice Ford.

ford38v8 · 10-30-2014, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill OH

I would give attention t the connections on the ballast resistor located under the dash on the firewall. Remove the 4 nuts, clean the contact surfaces with either a file or fine sand paper and then install a nut on each stud followed by the clean connections on the ballast resistor, then add the connections for the two wires and finish with a nut on each stud. Tighten both nuts. Helps to eliminate voltage drop. You might also want to clean the contacts in the ignition switch. Learned this on FB.

I retired my 38 with Rhode Island products - excellent.

Fuel line is 5/16ths copper. No problems for the past 24 yrs. I found my steel line got thin from its age and I replaced with copper. I have an inboard boat with copper fuel line from tank to engine with flare fittings - boat is a 1971 - no problems.

I lubriplate the housings for the brake cables. I pull the emergency handle on 2 notches, jack up each wheel, turn the adjuster at the top of backing plate until I can just turn the wheel with both hands! then release the emergency brake and try the wheel rotation again. The result is I can slid the wheels on bare road. Works as well as hyd.

I also had a 38 two dr in high school.

Enjoy - nice Ford.

Bill, your advice re the ballast resistor is good, many guys miss that. However, that advice seems not needed in this case, as his juice to the coil is sufficient.

I do strongly disagree with your advice to use copper fuel line. The original equipment was copper plated steel, (and is still available) and there is an excellent cupro alloy line available today, but pure copper is dangerous for a fuel line, even though some have used it for years without incident.

The '38 handbrake actuating the cables the same as the foot brake makes it easy to adjust the brakes. Good shortcuts are worthy of repeating often.

36coupe · 10-30-2014, 06:21 PM

Thanks
I will continue cleaning contacts.

El Rat · 11-03-2014, 05:50 PM

I have a standard 38 coupe'. Bought a new body harness and kept the original underdash wiring. Seems my car was a cross-over between a 38 and 39. Regardless my 38 has the two piece wiring harness. Body harness new and under dash original...when I pushed in the cigarette lighter the under dash harness caught fire. Replace your wires! My new set came from Tyree Harris...

07-31-2014, 03:33 PM	#41
36coupe Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Eastcoast Posts: 864	Re: My new 1938 Tudor I'm looking for a picture of the tools and jack that would come with the 38.

10-30-2014, 07:26 AM	#44
36coupe Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Eastcoast Posts: 864	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Update I got my coil back from Skip and now it runs fine, put 500-600 miles on it since then. Had to replace the speedo cable as it twisted off from being dry. I was dreading trying to figure out the electrical gremlins. I took the headlight switch apart and after checking the old harness realized 2 wires where plugged in the wrong spades, switched and have headlights and taillights. The gas gauge was also probmatic to say the least. I unhooked the wire at the gauge and sending unit and had power on both ends! Anywheres that there is electrical tape seems to be a potential problem. Where the wire harness meets the fire wall had all the wires bundled together and 3 of the wires had no insulation on the bullet connectors and where putting 6 volt to the sending unit wire. Another fairly easy fix, could have been a big problem. The sealed beams headlights behind the teardrops are a waste of time. That needs to be addressed. I scored 5 extra rims and hubcaps and some brake drums. I have extra coil I might send out and started rebuilding an extra distributor. With the distributor where can I get a leather brake for the advance unit?

10-30-2014, 10:00 AM	#45
corvette8n Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: 36 miles north of Albany NY Posts: 2,955	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Nice looking car, keep plugging away at the problems

10-30-2014, 11:39 AM	#47
ford38v8 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 6,651	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Lindsay, Good to hear from you again, and glad you've been able to work out some of the kinks! You should consider a set of new harnesses as you've found so many problems with the old ones, the next problem is just around the corner. Someone said the '38 harness is hard to find, but I disagree. There are multiple choices for good quality harnesses for all year model Fords. Rhode Island wiring service is one of the best. Your headlights should not be sealed beam, but rather, replaceable bulbs behind the lens. Look closer and you will see the difference. Replacement of the harnesses will greatly improve that issue also, as the multiple connectors develop resistance, and should be assembled clean with dialectric grease or soldered. The hi/lo beam switch is another cause of resistance that can be replaced for an improvement. Grounds for the lights should be addressed also. Failing these improvements, you can install a headlight relay system, using the original system to power relays located near the headlights. Shouldn't need this if all other issues are addressed. The leather brake pad inside your distributor will last forever. Just turn it 90º or flip it over, and it's good to go another 50,000 miles. Did you find the inside handles? Dennis Carpenter makes these. Be sure to specify the DeLuxe model, as the Standards are chrome. Have you replaced the hood prop with a safer one? The hood will break again very easily if you don't, and if you break the side trim piece as well, you'll never find a replacement for that piece. It is of an alloy that Ford called "Rustless Steel" and can be restored easily, even welded if broken, but with a slight color difference if welded. __________________ Alan

10-30-2014, 03:07 PM	#48
Bill OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 426	Re: My new 1938 Tudor I would give attention t the connections on the ballast resistor located under the dash on the firewall. Remove the 4 nuts, clean the contact surfaces with either a file or fine sand paper and then install a nut on each stud followed by the clean connections on the ballast resistor, then add the connections for the two wires and finish with a nut on each stud. Tighten both nuts. Helps to eliminate voltage drop. You might also want to clean the contacts in the ignition switch. Learned this on FB. I retired my 38 with Rhode Island products - excellent. Fuel line is 5/16ths copper. No problems for the past 24 yrs. I found my steel line got thin from its age and I replaced with copper. I have an inboard boat with copper fuel line from tank to engine with flare fittings - boat is a 1971 - no problems. I lubriplate the housings for the brake cables. I pull the emergency handle on 2 notches, jack up each wheel, turn the adjuster at the top of backing plate until I can just turn the wheel with both hands! then release the emergency brake and try the wheel rotation again. The result is I can slid the wheels on bare road. Works as well as hyd. I also had a 38 two dr in high school. Enjoy - nice Ford.

10-30-2014, 06:21 PM	#50
36coupe Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Eastcoast Posts: 864	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Thanks I will continue cleaning contacts.

11-03-2014, 05:50 PM	#51
El Rat Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 260	Re: My new 1938 Tudor I have a standard 38 coupe'. Bought a new body harness and kept the original underdash wiring. Seems my car was a cross-over between a 38 and 39. Regardless my 38 has the two piece wiring harness. Body harness new and under dash original...when I pushed in the cigarette lighter the under dash harness caught fire. Replace your wires! My new set came from Tyree Harris...