Model A Pickup Box Rivets

[Working Class Zero]

I am about to some riveting on my model a pickup box. My question is what finishing method was used on the rivets in the different locations on the box? Specifically at the stake or rear U channel? The exsisting rivets are brazier and finished with the waffle. Waffled end facing out. Is this correct as factory or has someone done this later? I would have thought a premed or rounded finish on both ends would look cleaner. Want it as it was done originally though. Thanks in advance!!!! Also was the box bolted to wood and frame with carriage bolts? If so they go in a round hole? Don't carriage bolts need a square hole?

[Brentwood Bob]

Decide if you are restoring to oem, or not. It makes a difference. If to oem, you need to reproduce the original orientation and finish, one rivet at a time. If you are starting with a pile of components find an original unaltered bed as a guide, There is an excellent article in either the Model A News, or in the restorer by Cox. He did an excellent restoration.
Bob

[Working Class Zero]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

Decide if you are restoring to oem, or not. It makes a difference. If to oem, you need to reproduce the original orientation and finish, one rivet at a time. If you are starting with a pile of components find an original unaltered bed as a guide, There is an excellent article in either the Model A News, or in the restorer by Cox. He did an excellent restoration.
Bob

I want the rivets correct oem. Any link to those articles?

[Working Class Zero]

My box is original, but may have had rivets replaced etc over the years.....:

[Charles Reese]

1. outside, front box stake, rounded head

2. inside, front box stake, rounded head

3. bed-to-frame ... mine had hex head bolts (however, mine is a Jan 28 and did not use wood stretchers under the bed, the subrails run out to the end of the bed!)

4. bed wood strips ... carriage head (unique size head)

hope this helps, the flash really distorts the color (and accentuates every imperfection ... the white around the rivet heads is residual wax

5. drop me an email and i'll send a copy of Doug Cox's article

[Rich in Tucson]

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Hello Charles,

The rear end of the piece through which the your exterior bed to frame hex head bolt goes through (your third photo) has a lateral indentation at the fender that my later 1928 (I think) bed lacks - mine is a straight piece.

I notice some other differences from mine - could you please measure 1) the length, width, and height of the rail through which the hex bolt goes through, 2) the distance from the front of the rail to the hex head through-bolt, and 3) the distance from your cab back to the front of the rail piece; your bed appears to be much closer to the cab than is mine.

Thanks, I appreciate it very much, Rich

[Working Class Zero]

Originally Posted by Charles Reese

1. outside, front box stake, rounded head

2. inside, front box stake, rounded head

3. bed-to-frame ... mine had hex head bolts (however, mine is a Jan 28 and did not use wood stretchers under the bed, the subrails run out to the end of the bed!)

4. bed wood strips ... carriage head (unique size head)

hope this helps, the flash really distorts the color (and accentuates every imperfection ... the white around the rivet heads is residual wax

5. drop me an email and i'll send a copy of Doug Cox's article

Nice! Thanks for the info. So round inside and out on front stake slots, same on rear ones? Outside and in? That's where mine are round in and waffle out. I have to put em in up front still so no idea what they were.....

[Charles Reese]

Originally Posted by Rich in Tucson

Hello Charles,

The rear end of the piece through which the your exterior bed to frame hex head bolt goes through (your third photo) has a lateral indentation at the fender that my later 1928 (I think) bed lacks - mine is a straight piece.

I notice some other differences from mine - could you please measure 1) the length, width, and height of the rail through which the hex bolt goes through, 2) the distance from the front of the rail to the hex head through-bolt, and 3) the distance from your cab back to the front of the rail piece; your bed appears to be much closer to the cab than is mine.

will be a coupla days before i can get back to you on this ... remember, mine is a Jan 28 with a slightly longer bed and that the bed bolts directly to a subrail that extends from the cab to back over the rear axle ... when the subrail was eliminated, i believe a wood stretcher was added ... thus, possibly some minor configuration changes ...

i have also learned that there should NOT be the beaded material (lace) between the bed and the rear fender ...so that will come out when i get a chance to get at it.. (kinda of a shame, the lace looks nice & should stop squeaks).

[Brentwood Bob]

Kane, when you get the copy of doug Cox article there is one rivet you should not change out unless you have no choice. It is at the front if I remember correctly. That defines an original bed. Bob

[Doug Cox]

I have been off the web and Fordbarn for some time, sorry. Once I retired my time is not my own,,, go figure. Anyway I have more photos of the original rivets prior to my bed disassembly. Like you I wanted the rivets to be correct so I took photos of the "peen" side and the head side. I'll be glad to email them to you if you send me your email address.
Best of luck, unlike the car models the pickup bed is subject to view inside and out and requires a lot of work and no shortcuts.


Doug

[Rich in Tucson]

I may be working on one of these early ones soon so the early '28 differences are of great interest to me. I am still very confused from previous discussions about the bead welting between the fender and bed - does your research show that no bead welting was used in early '28 only or was there never any welting in '28-'29? Thanks and no hurry. Rich

[wrndln]

I thought the fender welting issue on a pickup boxes for 28/29 model A's was settled. I believe there was a thread sometime back that came to the conclusion that there WAS welting between the rear fenders and the rear of the splash aprons/pickup box. Maybe the very early 28's didn't use any welting - who knows. I hate to rehash this, but I thought it was a settled issue. See: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37697
Rusty Nelson

[Working Class Zero]

I'm still wondering of carriage or regular bolts were used by Henry Ford to bolt down the pick up box? Round hole so?

[Working Class Zero]

Doug I did email and pm you. Would love to see those pics. Thanks.