The Ford Barn

Russ/40 · 07-13-2014, 04:09 PM

If you have had to make this adjustment to the P/U box, I would love to hear how you did it. Those who have not, but have ideas, please chime in also. This is the sturdiest piece of the box, and not easily adjusted.

This point needs to move 3/4" in the direction indicated.

Model A Man · 07-13-2014, 04:47 PM

I am no expert by any means but what you could use is a large ratchet strap wrapped around the box and if need be clamp something on the diagonal to keep the other side from moving if it is in the proper location as you tighten the ratchet strap. keep an eye on all parts that you don't want to bend as you do this and be careful of breaking ratchet straps as they can fly and hurt or kill. I always lay a furniture pad over the strap to help lessen the flying strap if it were to break. if you do use this suggestion do so at your own risk, like I said I am no expert.

chopo · 07-13-2014, 05:43 PM

bolt section of chain to upper opposite corner add turnbuckle at chain hook area heat contour use turnbuckle to pull in. go over plumb by 1/4 inch. let cool remove

Russ/40 · 07-14-2014, 10:49 AM

Thanks guys for two great suggestions. I'm feeling a bit more confident about this obstacle.

d.j. moordigian · 07-14-2014, 10:59 AM

Russ,

I'm sure there are a number of ways of doing it. My thought would be
to have it right side up, clamped to your bench. Pulling on one side at
a time , so that it doesn't go out of rack. Use the tail gate for the fit,
along with a square and tape measure...

Russ/40 · 07-16-2014, 03:29 PM

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I thought you might like to hear the result. Took this approach, thanks to the above contributors.
Took one of those expandable bars used to keep loads from sliding back in P/U beds, and removed the pad from one end. Took the other end and bent the pad into an arc to fit the lower curve in the bed bottom corner. Inserted the shaft from the end without the pad, through the inner hole into the stake pocket on the side that was OK, and put the pad end into the curve corner of the side that needed to be moved 3/4". I then inserted a block of steel into the stake pocket of the side needing adjustment clamping it in the pocket with a clamp through the inner pocket hole and on the outside. This kept all forces pulling on the thicker metal rather than on the thinner bed sheet metal. I fastened a chain from the shaft end on the good side to the metal block on the side I had to move. I had a turnbuckle in the middle to do the pulling. I tried the adjustment cold, and it just kept returning to baseline. I then did the pull, and while the tension was on, heated the sides of the heavy rear channel. You could hear the metal move as it reshaped to the new contour. Amazing, but I hit the sweet spot on the first try. It came out perfect. Thanks for the great help.

07-13-2014, 04:09 PM	#1
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Have you had to do this? If you have had to make this adjustment to the P/U box, I would love to hear how you did it. Those who have not, but have ideas, please chime in also. This is the sturdiest piece of the box, and not easily adjusted. This point needs to move 3/4" in the direction indicated.

07-13-2014, 04:47 PM	#2
Model A Man Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sarasota Florida Posts: 604	Re: Have you had to do this? I am no expert by any means but what you could use is a large ratchet strap wrapped around the box and if need be clamp something on the diagonal to keep the other side from moving if it is in the proper location as you tighten the ratchet strap. keep an eye on all parts that you don't want to bend as you do this and be careful of breaking ratchet straps as they can fly and hurt or kill. I always lay a furniture pad over the strap to help lessen the flying strap if it were to break. if you do use this suggestion do so at your own risk, like I said I am no expert.

07-13-2014, 05:43 PM	#3
chopo Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Northumberland Posts: 193	Re: Have you had to do this? bolt section of chain to upper opposite corner add turnbuckle at chain hook area heat contour use turnbuckle to pull in. go over plumb by 1/4 inch. let cool remove __________________ www.jalopyshowdown.com dont scare me i poop easy

07-14-2014, 10:49 AM	#4
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Have you had to do this? Thanks guys for two great suggestions. I'm feeling a bit more confident about this obstacle.

07-14-2014, 10:59 AM	#5
d.j. moordigian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 3,636	Re: Have you had to do this? Russ, I'm sure there are a number of ways of doing it. My thought would be to have it right side up, clamped to your bench. Pulling on one side at a time , so that it doesn't go out of rack. Use the tail gate for the fit, along with a square and tape measure...

07-16-2014, 03:29 PM	#6
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Have you had to do this? *UPDATE* Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I thought you might like to hear the result. Took this approach, thanks to the above contributors. Took one of those expandable bars used to keep loads from sliding back in P/U beds, and removed the pad from one end. Took the other end and bent the pad into an arc to fit the lower curve in the bed bottom corner. Inserted the shaft from the end without the pad, through the inner hole into the stake pocket on the side that was OK, and put the pad end into the curve corner of the side that needed to be moved 3/4". I then inserted a block of steel into the stake pocket of the side needing adjustment clamping it in the pocket with a clamp through the inner pocket hole and on the outside. This kept all forces pulling on the thicker metal rather than on the thinner bed sheet metal. I fastened a chain from the shaft end on the good side to the metal block on the side I had to move. I had a turnbuckle in the middle to do the pulling. I tried the adjustment cold, and it just kept returning to baseline. I then did the pull, and while the tension was on, heated the sides of the heavy rear channel. You could hear the metal move as it reshaped to the new contour. Amazing, but I hit the sweet spot on the first try. It came out perfect. Thanks for the great help.