Oil pipe question on side of oil pan

[Bob from Northport]

The photos show the end of the oil pipe that mounts on the outside of the drivers side of the oil pan. Runs from the oil pump to the pan. The endo uses a rubber seal inside the oil pump that goes over the pipe and is secured to the pump. After cleaning, I see a metal ring on the end of the pipe. Is that ring that holds the seal part of the seal?? Or secured to the pipe permanently??

[paul2748]

It's been a while since I had mine apart, but my recollection is that the pipe has a plain end and that piece is a part of the seal. The seal has a metal part. If the end of the pipe is not round, it must be fixed.

[miker98038]

Been a long time for me too, but I remember it as Paul does. The “ferrule” ring is part of the seal. It has to come off, even if the new one doesn’t have one.

Seems to me I read a comment by Ted Eaton over at yblocksforever that he uses white grease in the install.

[Bob from Northport]

I think the end of the pipe is NOT round, but slightly bent. Any suggestions on how to sharpen the shape back to normal.???

[KULTULZ]

Have you found your solution(s) as of yet?

You have shotgunned several individual posts regarding the same subject and is a little difficult to follow.

That metal ring on the end of the tube is a compression ring, part of the 6698 seal. HARRY ARMSTRONG over tightened the fitting with his 24" CHI-COM combination wrench and warped the ring and tube.

That tube end has to be perfectly concentric to not only prevent leakage but to keep the oil pump from sucking outside air possibly aerating the engine oil.

The seal @ the oil pan flange is of rubber, .63" ID - .91" OD - .12" THICK

FORD PN B4A 6643-A

NOTE -

The larger copper seal (B4A 6626-B) shown around the 6643 seal (rubber) in the last ILL is for the 1955/ one piece inlet tube so don't let it confuse you. It doesn't belong in the group shot.

[paul2748]

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Sure you got the right seal in the right envelope ? Pic looks more like the seal at the oil pump and dimensions are a lot different than what Bob says.

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Have you found your solution(s) as of yet?

You have shotgunned several individual posts regarding the same subject and is a little difficult to follow.

That metal ring on the end of the tube is a compression ring, part of the 6698 seal. HARRY ARMSTRONG over tightened the fitting with his 24" CHI-COM combination wrench and warped the ring and tube.

That tube end has to be perfectly concentric to not only prevent leakage but to keep the oil pump from sucking outside air possibly aerating the engine oil.

The seal @ the oil pan flange is of rubber, .63" ID - .91" OD - .12" THICK

FORD PN B4A 6643-A

[miker98038]

I really don’t know how to restore the tube. I know guys that could do it. The trick is to tap it back to round without stretching the metal. Good metal working guys, with something as a mandrel (bolt, dowel, ?) would slowly work it back into shape. But where you find them is the tough part.

It’s a question you might ask over at yblocksforever, not so much for advice, but maybe someone still has a 256 around after they upgraded to a 292. Same thing here in a new carefully titled post or the want adds.

The torque on that nut and seal is pretty low. I don’t know the number, but it’s easy to over do it.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by paul2748

Sure you got the right seal in the right envelope ? Pic looks more like the seal at the oil pump and dimensions are a lot different than what Bobsays.

Originally Posted by Bob from Northport

The hole has a ledge around it that the gasket sits on. The diameter of the gasket on the outside is 5/8". The gasket sits down into the hole slightly. Inner diameter would be 1/2"

I have the seal right (well, FORD does actually). I have no idea of what he took off, do you?

Most likely, it will need a new tube. Trying to get that sleeve off and it's being bent out of shape as it is, it will most likely leak.

[KULTULZ]

It’s a question you might ask over at yblocksforever, not so much for advice, but maybe someone still has a 256 around ...

The 1954 239 and 256 two piece tube was unique. FORD went to a one piece tube in 1955.

The tube is still available NOS.

Only GOD knows what this car has been through and who attempted to patch it.

[KULTULZ]

Here is the previous discussion @ y-blocksforever -

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic165543.aspx

[KULTULZ]

Bob,

I posted a parts request @ y-blocksforever and an waiting for a reply -

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/To...ate=1#bm165845

[Bob from Northport]

Thanks!!

[KULTULZ]

This is TED EATON's response this AM -

Ted (2/1/2024)

Kultulz. Pass it on that I have the oil pump inlet seals and the two gaskets for the interior and exterior pan to tube attachment for the 1954 oil pans. I do not have the flat rubber washer that sandwiches between those two inlet tubes at the oil pan though but any appropriately sized O ring will work at that spot.

As far as the deformation in the tube, I use a ½” diameter steel drift to remove the crush caused by using the non-Ford steel banded inlet seals. Some white or lithium grease works as a sealant on those ‘all rubber, no steel’ inlet seals when installing them.

I can be contacted through my shop email and that information is located on the ‘Contact Us’ tab at www.eatonbalancing.com .

When someone with his knowledgeable/experience and being busy takes the time out of his day to help an enthusiast, that's saying a whole lot.

There are good people left ...

[KULTULZ]

The needed seal missing is BEST GASKET PN 275.

It is shown in the complete overhaul gasket set RS572-G-4. I do not know if they sell it apart from the complete kit. I think you have to go through a parts jobber as they do not sell direct.

It is also shown in the FEL-PRO kit shown on the thread @ y-blocks.forever. FEL-PRO may sell it separate.

[paul2748]

Bob - If your still looking for the 6643, I believe the 133 Best Gasket is the one your looking for after looking at the gasket listing above. As I mentioned, an o-ring may work in place of it.. For the tube to oil pump seal, the 275 looks to be correct.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by paul2748

Bob - If your still looking for the 6643, I believe the 133 Best Gasket is the one your looking for after looking at the gasket listing above. As I mentioned, an o-ring may work in place of it.. For the tube to oil pump seal, the 275 looks to be correct.

133 Oil Pan Drain Plug

Maybe try again?

275 - Oil Pump Inlet Tube Seal (6643)

EDIT -

HazardTBird

Kultulz;

I have that rubber gasket (I think), Felpro gasket set, and won't be using it as I have the one piece tube on everything I've got. I will get in the shop tonight and check that it matches the dimensions you gave and will post tomorrow if they don't match. If I don't post they matched and then we will work out how I can get it to you or your buddy.

THREAD - http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Po...arentID=165854

Just waiting on confirmation.

[paul2748]

I'll stick with my original statement as the size of the drain plug, according to my experience, is a lot larger than what the picture seems to me and the size shown seems to be in line what the original poster says is the size..


I see no reason why the kit would exclude an important washer/o-ring.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by paul2748

I'll stick with my original statement as the size of the drain plug, according to my experience, is a lot larger than what the picture seems to me and the size shown seems to be in line what the original poster says is the size..

I see no reason why the kit would exclude an important washer/o-ring.

What exactly is it you are referring to?

[KULTULZ]

The thread run-out to its inside diameter is critical to sealing.

What is critical to this "nut" is it's thread-form and it's positional relation to it's inside bore. Too often upon installing this "nut", no lube is used, and the thread bites into the aluminum housing (where an alum hsng is used). This will cause misalignment, and a false feeling of thread engagement, with some mechanics thinking a wrench is necessary, compounding the damage.

An often overlooked feature of this "nut", also referenced as a "gland-nut" is it's concave radius, used to push the packing, for sealing the created vacuum by the georotor pump. Without a proper sealed packing, yes there is oil leakage, but more important is the strain placed on the suction side of the oil pump. Especially during "starting up phases", because of poor sealing the Prime-to-the-Pump was lost, and re-priming allowed a dry start.

by 57billc23 Jan 01, 2020 - (AUTHOR)

The 6698 seal shown below below is junk (1st PHOTO)-

The correct seal is available from - https://www.rubbertherightway.com/i-...tube-seal.html - and is a FORD AUTHORIZED REPRO PART.

Lube for seal install on tube (use white grease - LUBRI-PLATE)/thread sealer is also shown attached -

NUT - OIL PUMP TO OIL PAN INLET TUBE - EAD 6673-A (1" X 18 - HEX)

[Bob from Northport]

I guess I bored everyone to death with this discussion.
Thanks again for all your help. Paul2748 also!!!