Oil pipe question on side of oil pan

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Bob from Northport

I guess I bored everyone to death with this discussion.

No, it became a very informative thread.

[paul2748]

Glad to help

[miker98038]

One more thing I learned about yblocks, I’ve always had the one piece pick up tube. But I had a grommet at the pump I didn’t install properly back in the 60’s, and chased the loss of oil pressure for a week until someone clued me in. That’s the great thing about these forums. Spreads the knowledge despite distance and age.

[Bob from Northport]

Kultulz-
I received the parts ordered from Rubber the Right way that you recommended. The oil pump seal they sent has NO metal crimp ring inside. It was just like the one I received from Concours parts and sent back.

[paul2748]

If you go back to the other posts about this subject, you will note that Ted Eaton the Yblock guru said that the plain rubber seal is the correct one (I posted his comments on this matter.)

Originally Posted by Bob from Northport

Kultulz-
I received the parts ordered from Rubber the Right way that you recommended. The oil pump seal they sent has NO metal crimp ring inside. It was just like the one I received from Concours parts and sent back.

[KULTULZ]

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Originally Posted by Bob from Northport

Kultulz-

I received the parts ordered from Rubber the Right way that you recommended. The oil pump seal they sent has NO metal crimp ring inside. It was just like the one I received from Concours parts and sent back.

... sob ...

Then why was their ILL with the sleeve? (because they used a photo of a FORD SERVICE PART instead of what they are selling). The sleeve prevents the seal from distorting within specified torque value.

Did it appear the same as the original piece of crap?

Ted (2/1/2024)

Kultulz. Pass it on that I have the oil pump inlet seals and the two gaskets for the interior and exterior pan to tube attachment for the 1954 oil pans. I do not have the flat rubber washer that sandwiches between those two inlet tubes at the oil pan though but any appropriately sized O ring will work at that spot.

As far as the deformation in the tube, I use a ½” diameter steel drift to remove the crush caused by using the non-Ford steel banded inlet seals.

Some white or lithium grease works as a sealant on those ‘all rubber, no steel’ inlet seals when installing them.

I can be contacted through my shop email and that information is located on the ‘Contact Us’ tab at www.eatonbalancing.com .

Attached are both photos of the NOS and FEL-PRO. Both use sleeves. I have no idea how the section of heater hose they are selling will completely seal - The ends are not even chamfered. A gland nut captures the seal and compresses it within the nut.

[Bob from Northport]

I emailed the company about why their seal did not have the metal crimp ring as their photo shows, but have not received an answer. i found a NOS seal and I am waiting for its arrival to see what it looks like.
Can anyone explain how the metal ring inside the seal seals against the pipe when the large nut is tightened??

[KULTULZ]

OK ... I have it ciphered out now ...

TED EATON uses BEST GASKETS I believe. The BEST GASKET SEAL we are discussing (275) must not have the compression sleeve.

After ciphering on the BEST GASKET PARTS LIST (ENGINE OVERHAUL SET), it turns out PN 275 is the tube to pump seal and 175 is the pan to tube seal.

If TED says that is the way he does it, so be it. Personally, I would search for NOS as if a leak did develop there, a sudden loss of oil pressure may be a result. I would also like to hold the FEL-PRO seal in my hand to examine it.

I have a source of NOS. Let me know how you want to go.

[KULTULZ]

Can anyone explain how the metal ring inside the seal seals against the pipe when the large nut is tightened??

If you notice when you get it, the seal will slide over the tube. When the gland nut is tightened to proper torque value that sleeve will compress around the tube end and bring the seal with it. The gland nut while being tightened will further compress the seal and encapsulate it. Over tighten and you may damage the seal (and tube).

I would mount the tube securing it at the pan first while putting the tube and seal into the oil pump inlet to ensure the tube and seal are positioned correctly for the gland nut to secure the seal properly.

Hopefully that explains it.

You might also want to use this product on the gland nut/oil pump threads. It will seal the threads and keep the nut from backing out with engine vibration.

https://www.permatex.com/seal-and-lock/

[Bob from Northport]

I found two NOS seals last night. Will wait to see what they look like. Thanks for the explanation about the seal.

[KULTULZ]

This is what gets me -

Our automotive rubber parts are exact reproductions and are made to standards that meet or exceed the originals. In addition to our 50+ restoration parts suppliers from across the country, we manufacture many rubber car parts here in our San Diego facility. We now offer a full line of rubber restoration parts for most American vehicles 1930+...windshield seals, door weatherstrips, beltline, window channels, rubber bumpers, grommets, odds & ends etc. Working closely with customers, friends, & parts books we meticulously reproduce every detail to make our parts the “right way.”

SOURCE - https://www.rubbertherightway.com/

Obviously that ain't so. And then they show a photo of an correct FORD SERVICE PARTS SEAL and is not exactly what they are selling. What will you find with the rest of their product lines?

And as time goes on and NOS parts sources dry up, it is going to be a lot worse for the enthusiast.

It's enough to p!ss off the Pope ...

[Bob from Northport]

I have not heard a word from the guys that make the seal at Rubber the Right Way. So much for that big guarantee.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Bob from Northport

I have not heard a word from the guys that make the seal at Rubber the Right Way. So much for that big guarantee.

I apologize for pointing you in that direction. I thought they were a quality vendor.

A vendor that has no customer service should be avoided at all costs unless it is your last gasp to hopefully source a hard to find item. At the least, concours responded and gave you a credit.

I have read threads that describe once buying one of these CHI-COM GM BASED SLOPPY COPY disc brake kits, that once the buyer is having trouble the reply will be, " No one else (or your the first) has complained about it".

If a vendor sells below quality parts such as off-shore low quality copies, it should be mentioned the source of that product in the ad. And it is not just a classic car problem. Try sourcing quality service parts on a late model (incl factory parts) and see what you run up against.

- PART IN QUESTION -

[russonator]

When it comes to Ford parts, my experience with Rubber the Right Way is that they are simply resellers of Dennis Carpenter products.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by russonator

When it comes to Ford parts, my experience with Rubber the Right Way is that they are simply resellers of Dennis Carpenter products.

It seems most (not all) vendors seem to source parts from the same sources. CARPENTER has good quality parts and then also sells some junk. I think since the passing of Carpenter, the quality has suffered. Then you have some such as CASCO which to me offers 1st class parts. You just need to figure out which parts offered interchange between the PASS CAR and BIRD.

But then again, I am old, cranky and need a MIDOL TREATMENT from a 50gal drum (concentrate) compressed air induced as I seem to be retaining water on an continual and increasing basis.

[Bob from Northport]

The manager of Rubber the right way called me today and apologized for the problem in the order. They are using the photo that Dennis Carpenter uses that shows the metal crimp ring. They buy their parts from Carpenter. Since Dennis passed, the quality and dependability of products has suffered greatly. The manager's name was Clinton. Again he apologized and refunded the total price including shipping for the order. Guess we'll just have to hunt for the correct parts.
Thank you all for your help and advise.

I have yet to see any credit or refund from Concours either.

[Bob from Northport]

Who is CASCO by the way???

[paul2748]

Classic Auto Supply Co. located in Ohio. TBird parts supplier and TBird restoration shop. Nice people to do business with, I use them all the time for my TBird parts

.

Originally Posted by Bob from Northport

Who is CASCO by the way???

[KULTULZ]

They are using the photo that Dennis Carpenter uses that shows the metal crimp ring. They buy their parts from Carpenter.

Ain't that something ...

The way they (website) make it sound they make everything themselves.

[Bob from Northport]

I received the correct oil pipe seal in the mail today. Located it on EBAY. Going to send a photo the the manager of Rubber the right way for his reference.