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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
Posts: 1,908
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I swapped out the upper water outlet with a part that lets me install a thermostat closer to the engine, and I need to re-torque the head on my car. The socket that I have is too fat to fit squarely on those two head nuts. It looks like I’ll have clearance issues on the head nuts near the distributor as well.
What are my options? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Didsbury Alberta
Posts: 838
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A special torque wrench adapter is available from the suppiers
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#3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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![]() I see this one for distributors (https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword), but I don’t know if that is thin enough to help me with the water outlet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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Will something like this work with a torque wrench? https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-2580...9042979&sr=8-4
Or, does that foul up the torque wrench reading? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: west bend wi
Posts: 314
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A thin wall socket or either grind or turn one down. Then only use it on those two bolts.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 5,849
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http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/snaponheadwrench.htm You don't say what year your car is but I find on the '30-31 a thin walled 12pt ⅜" drive socket will fit the water neck. It is tighter on the '28-29. You may have to pull the distributor... Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 05-09-2020 at 12:10 PM. |
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Washington
Posts: 2,552
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yes it will foul up the torque. and they can round out the hex nuts. on the out let, if you have a old 11/16" socket, just grind it down.
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 5,849
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#9 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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![]() Quote:
The car is a 1931. I didn’t know there was a difference for the older year engines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#10 | |
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Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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Can you elaborate? I don’t think I understand the 90 degree part. By the way, this is the first time I’ve torqued a Model A head. So, I’m a bit green on the technique. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,390
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If you're torqueing the head nuts with a torque wrench, get the accessable ones to 55#'s, then use a box wrench and tighten to the same "feel". It's not rocket science and 1 or 2 lbs diff isn't going to hurt. JMO
Paul in CT |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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[QUOTE=shew01;1885478]The car is a 1931. I didn’t know there was a difference for the older year engines.
The outlet is a different shape, shorter on the '28-29. [QUOTE=shew01;1885479]Can you elaborate? I don’t think I understand the 90 degree part. By the way, this is the first time I’ve torqued a Model A head. So, I’m a bit green on the technique. What I meant by 90°, have the opening on the adapter 90° to the torque wrench, not straight out. Still not ideal tho. Best to use the proper wrench. I see the Snap-on wrench on e-Pay occasionally. But of course you want it NOW!! |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 2,332
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The most used term for the wrench is a "Crows Foot Wrench".
If you purchase one, the best have the drive opening and the wrench opening that goes on the nut in perfect vertical alignment. Some are not aligned, are offset, and you have to use them properly to obtain proper torques. Here is a previous string/discussion with lots of info. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ght=crows+foot |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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Whew! I found a skinnier socket. [emoji846]
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#15 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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Yes, "Crows Foot" I don't use them so I could not remember the name. The opening of the "crows foot" should be 90° to the torque wrench. If inline, it lengthens the torque wrench, throwing off the torque reading, ~ >10%.
Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 05-09-2020 at 02:00 PM. |
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#16 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santee, California
Posts: 3,505
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As many have mentioned, grind a 6 point socket to fit. The crows foot tool is a lousy and troublesome tool, not for torqued fasteners. Get a decent quality socket and grind the full circumference to clear as needed.
The one next to the distributor can be easily dealt with. The vendors make a "U" shaped wrench to reach under the distributor so it can be torqued. It has a box end on the bottom, and a 1/2" ratchet square for the torque wrench on top. It allows accurate torqueing as the box end is immediately under the torque wrench so there is no erroneous torque error. Worth having. |
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#17 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,115
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I have a supply of the SnapOn wrenches. Most of the guys in our club have these. They work great.
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Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#18 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Anaheim California
Posts: 551
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I am always amazed to find "many" Model A guys that don't even torque those two long studs at proper torque. They are afraid of breaking the casting.
I believe they should be torqued the same as the others. I sand the mounting surface flat, use the proper copper/asbestos gasket or make a gasket out of a magazine cover. I have one ground down socket. The distributor, Loosen the lock screw/nut, lift the distributor and torque. It's time to put a little grease or anti seize on the base of distributor so it doesn't rust anyway. Richard Anaheim CA |
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#19 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Upstate New York
Posts: 1,160
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shew01, you don't need retorque the entire head if you just loosened the two nuts for the water outlet.
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AL in NY |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
Posts: 1,908
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I replaced the armored ignition cable too. So, I have at least three lose head nuts.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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