10-08-2014, 03:58 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Oakhurst, CA
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94 or 97?
Trying to get my 1936 Phaeton to run better.. Right now it has the 94 carb and the power valve issues seem to haunt me. It runs poorly under load. We fixed a cracked intake, had the dist gone over by a "professional" so stuck or leaking valves and the carb seem to be the issues. Should I go to a 97? I understand that is the original (1936). Where can I get a "good' one and what jet should I need. We are at 3000 ft. I understand I need to pull the engine to determine the bearing type. I am getting ready to do that, but I want to get it running as good as I can before that. Who and Where is Bubba? Thanks
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10-08-2014, 05:01 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,855
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Re: 94 or 97?
The 97 was peplaced by the 94 for a reason. You can buy a nice 97 from Uncle Max and he'll set it up for you application. I personaly don't like either one.
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10-08-2014, 05:25 PM | #3 |
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Location: Iowa
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Re: 94 or 97?
I'd use a vacuum gauge to locate the cause of your problem. If you don't have a test chart, I'll try to post one here. Unless you are hear bearing knock, pulling the engine seems like overkill. The transition to insert bearings was made in late '36. If your engine has babbit bearings, having them repoured and line bored can be expensive if you can find a reliable shop to do it. A leaking power valve usually shows up as fouled plugs. It requires the correct vacuum. Perhaps your intake repair wasn't effective. Changing things before you get a correct diagnosis usually introduces new problems.
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10-08-2014, 06:09 PM | #4 |
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Location: Eureka Calif.
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Re: 94 or 97?
I've been down the same road....I had a Holley 94 that I switched with a good Stromberg 97.Much better!If you think you have sticky valves,try some MMO.It worked for me.Jetting....run your hand slowly over the carb.If it speeds up,it's too lean.If it slows down,it's too rich.SOME '36 engines had bearings and are stamped on top of the block between the head and intake up front nearest the radiator with the letters "LB".I don't remember if it's left or right.But,not all.Some have bearings and are not stamped.Here is a link on how to interpret a vacuum gauge.
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm |
10-08-2014, 07:06 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jacksonville FL
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Re: 94 or 97?
"The transition to insert bearings was made in late '36."
Insert bearing engines were introduced with the beginning of 1936 production ... September 1935. Both insert bearing and babbitted engines were installed until the babbitt engines were phased out. A 1936 Ford can have either type regardless of when it came out of the factory. I've had 4 insert bearing 1936 engines. None were stamped. Drop the oil pan. The correct information about the introduction of insert bearings has been posted many times.
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10-09-2014, 12:41 AM | #6 |
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Location: so cal, placerville, vegas
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Re: 94 or 97?
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(My distributor is 34, 'rebuilt' in the early 50's, and sitting on my shelf until I started using it, about 6 or 7 years ago.) I'd be interested in hearing Ron's thoughts on what he does like, if he doesn't like either the 97 or the 94. (Side note... I drove my 34 on a week-long tour, all around your area, including Yosemite, in Oct 2012. No problems.) JMO |
10-09-2014, 06:09 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4,743
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Re: 94 or 97?
Lot of work JUST to find out if it has insert bearings, "it is what it is". The proper Carb. for 36 is the small logo 97 also marked 67 in several locations. The original size jets were .045 main and #65 PV. I agree you should put a vacuum gauge on the engine and it should help identify the problems. Charlie Schwendler can repair your 94.
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10-09-2014, 07:13 AM | #8 |
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Re: 94 or 97?
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