Need some help with locked starter 29 Tudor

[Tim B.]

I went to start the car this AM and starter just clicked once quickly and locked up. The engine didn't turn over enough to fire when it locked ( I run the fuel out when I shut it down & it hadn't turned over enough for the fuel to get to the cylinders to fire) .Tried rocking (and rocking and rocking) pushing forward in high gear with no effect. Removed the starter bolts to see if I could get starter out but starter won't budge. Is there anything I can try to get the starter out if it's locked up or is major surgery needed? I removed the inspection cover but nothing obvious. Can't tell if it is an old bolt or the drive itself that I'm dealing with. Car ran fine yesterday and when I put it away. Thanks Tim

Starter is out. Was using wrong sized rubber mallet needed the large size not the medium one. Engine spins fine so now the search is on for any loose parts. Thanks for looking

[WestCoast]

if you cant get the starter free by rocking it looks like you will have to disassemble the starter in the car, remove the mounting bolts for starter, slip the outer case off, then wiggle the armature up and down or side ways to free the bendix from the fly wheel, usually this happens when the ring gear is not running true, wobbling a little or the armature shaft is bent, check the run out on the shaft

[Clydes 31 P/U]

A few years ago I happened upon an A that had locked the starter as you describe. We tried everything you have then I took a piece of oak wood and a 2lb hammer gave it a good whack and out it came. I did leave the top bolt in but loose. What caused this was the engine died crossing a highway and he tried to restart it without retarding the spark. This is just what I did, attack the problem as you wish. Best O' Luck ........ Clyde

[Patrick L.]

Well, sometimes a hammer can be your friend and a really big hammer can be a really good friend.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Well, sometimes a hammer can be your friend and a really big hammer can be a really good friend.

Pat,
Gregg's (RIP) massive tool setup has a drawer with 21 hammers, one is small, for unlocking Briggs & Stratton starters. There's one, that I CAN'T LIFT IT, WELL, back to my exercising, BUT they say, "No PAIN, no GAIN", but I'm already in Pain, so's I'll go take an ANTI-PAIN PILL & take a nap with the Dog.
Bill W.

[Tim B.]

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I appreciate all the support . West coast I was dreading the disassembly. Patrick & Clyde you are right, a king sized rubber mallet was all it took. I should have used the pipe fitters first rule before posting, "If all else fails use a bigger hammer!". No spare parts found car starts fine & all is well (for now). Thanks to all!

[rocket1]

I loosen the starter bolts and kick the starter with my foot,you will hear the bendix pop,tighten the bolts and your on your way,rocking does not work it's just good exercise.

[40 Deluxe]

Note: You have to rock the car BACKWARDS in high gear to unlock a jammed starter! Rocking it forward is only going to jam it tighter! My experience is that a worn/chewed up ring gear is the usual culprit. They wear the most in only two spots; where the engine most often comes to a stop. To avoid the worn spot, we po' folk used to shut off the engine with the trans in gear and clutch down. Then just before the engine stops, let the clutch out (foot on brake, too). This will stop the engine in a different spot on the ring gear(hopefully where there are some good teeth).

[Tom Wesenberg]

Actually rocking the car forward in high gear is what spins the Bendix towards the rear, out of engagement. It's just like when the engine starts and the faster motion of the flywheel ring gear spins the Bendix out of engagement.

[ian Simpson]

It might be worthwhile checking if your ring gear has not moved on the flywheel. The one on my 28A is not tight enough and shifts towards the front causing bad lockups. Judicious use of a hammer and drift will knock it back into place. One day I will make the effort to pin it to the flywheel.

Check other threads for similar discussions.

Ian

[Big hammer]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Well, sometimes a hammer can be your friend and a really big hammer can be a really good friend.

Thank you big hammer :-)

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Brushing the flywheel teeth, LIGHTLY, with heavy grease helps prevent starter lock up.
If your Bendix ever just "whirrs" & won't engage, just "rap' on the starter with a hammer or the end of a long bar & it'll engage
If your starter won't run at all, from brushes worn too short, a hard "rap" as above, will usually make it start working & git you home for SUPPER!
Once, on an old Datsun, one long starter through bolt was GONE & the other one was BENT!! NERVOUS as HELL, I braced myself & held the starter together & sed, "Hit 'er, Gregg" & that danged thing STARTED!!!
When working at a Jaguar dealer, I encountered numerous starter problems, similar to Model A problems, as Jaguar used a similar bendix, through 1964.
Gregg said I should have "TRICKS", TATOOED ON MY FOREARM!!
Bill W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Bill, the problem with using a lot of grease on the flywheel teeth is that some of it will fly off and stick to the starter helix. Then when cold or even just cooler weather hits, the grease will prevent the pinion from spinning up the helix into engagement. 20 years ago I greased my flywheel teeth during assembly and that's what happened to me. I removed the starter, wiped off the grease on the helix and gave it a costing of ATF. It has worked fine since then.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Bill, the problem with using a lot of grease on the flywheel teeth is that some of it will fly off and stick to the starter helix. Then when cold or even just cooler weather hits, the grease will prevent the pinion from spinning up the helix into engagement. 20 years ago I greased my flywheel teeth during assembly and that's what happened to me. I removed the starter, wiped off the grease on the helix and gave it a costing of ATF. It has worked fine since then.

Tom,
NEVER had a problem with that. JUST BRUSH THE GREASE ON lightly. Any excess will be thrown off to the inside of the flywheel housing & ALSO, the flywheel teeth are in line with the bendix teeth, NOT the helix. IF a helix ever gets gummy, drill a small hole in the housing & FLOOD the helix with Berrymans Chem Tool, to free it up. Old Jaguar trick! (It takes HOURS to R&R a starter from a Jaguar XKE, JUST to clean the helix!!
Bill W.

[40 Deluxe]

Whoa Bill! 'flywheel teeth are in line with the bendix teeth'?? Only if you drive around with the starter engaged! Last I checked, this was not good for starter life!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Whoa Bill! 'flywheel teeth are in line with the bendix teeth'?? Only if you drive around with the starter engaged! Last I checked, this was not good for starter life!

Dog here,
OK, Smart A**--He meant WHILE IT'S CRANKIN'
Ol' Bill's Dog

[40 Deluxe]

Hey there "Dog"! I was thinkin' that grease won't fly off'n the ring gear at cranking speed, but when the ol' girl fires and you blip the throttle a couple of times, that grease will end up on the helix and as the Minnesota fall temperatures approach, the drive is too gummed up to engage-grease and clutch dust are an evil combination!

[SSsssteamer]

I had a new A engine rebuilt from H and H. It had a new ring gear and the starter would lock up about every tenth start. I usually could get it unlocked by rocking it in high gear. Finally one day when it locked up, I had to restart it while parked down hill against a curb. With the car in neutral, I unlocked the Bendix by putting my crank handle in the crank hole and standing on it. With a little jump, it popped right loose. This has worked beautifully every time since. The last time that the starter has hung up has been over a year now. I guess the new ring gear is finally broke in. I had checked the starter for a bent shaft or a poor Bendix and they both checked out fine. It is all in the past now. Its working great.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Hey there "Dog"! I was thinkin' that grease won't fly off'n the ring gear at cranking speed, but when the ol' girl fires and you blip the throttle a couple of times, that grease will end up on the helix and as the Minnesota fall temperatures approach, the drive is too gummed up to engage-grease and clutch dust are an evil combination!

That's it exactly, except the clutch dust would be of no consequence since it would be so slight. I removed the starter, wiped off the grease on the helix, put a little ATF on the helix, and it's been fine since. I still will grease the ring gear, but only a thin coat to help the gears slide together, and keep the rust away. The first time I greased the teeth I just put on too much. Of course I can always hand crank it if the pinion won't slide up the helix.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Hey there "Dog"! I was thinkin' that grease won't fly off'n the ring gear at cranking speed, but when the ol' girl fires and you blip the throttle a couple of times, that grease will end up on the helix and as the Minnesota fall temperatures approach, the drive is too gummed up to engage-grease and clutch dust are an evil combination!

Well, Dude, I'VE BEEN DOING THIS FOR EONS. First, I sed a "LIGHT" coating, NOT fillin' the WHOLE bell housing with an air powered grease gun from HARBOR FREIGHT
Once, during a brain fart, I "ACCIDENTALLY" put a ring gear on ASS-BACKWARDS, coated the teeth, LIGHTLY, with grease, & it worked like a CHARM!!!
Y'ALL do them HOWEVER you want to do them. I only EVER give advice that has wurked for me, PERSONALLY
IF no one wants my ADVICE, I can un-plug my COMPUTATOR & go back to chasin' CUTE OLD WOMEN & have a REAL THRILL
(You know, I DON'T have to do this posting, I spend HOURS & Hours, tipin' with 2 fingers & askin' The Dog HOW to spel wurds & rely GREATLY on his memory, whin I CAN't RECOMeMBER STUFF! I barely have time to cook, even!)
Bill W.