The Ford Barn

drpepper1885 · 09-28-2012, 10:47 PM

Good evening,

When you torque the head bolts on one of the early blocks (mine is a 1912), do you torque to 55 lbs or something less? At 55 lbs, I have already had to helicoil two bolts. I heard that the early blocks were not cast as well as the later versions. I checked the trusty Ford Service Manual and it was silent about how much to tighten the head bolts. Your comments are greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Mike

dumb person · 09-29-2012, 02:20 AM

45ft/lbs max. There was nothing written in the owners manual because torque wrench was not invented yet.

Doug Money · 09-29-2012, 07:57 AM

Make sure you clean the crud out of the holes before you put the bolts in. The crud jams the bolts and helps pull the threads out.

fordman67 · 09-29-2012, 08:01 AM

Brake kleen and a blow gun work real well to clean em out with.

yachtsmanbill · 09-29-2012, 09:03 AM

Anytime I rebuild ANYTHING, I re-qualify all the threaded holes. Sometimes its a bump with a correct sized drill to clear the bottom of crud followed with a bottom tap usually all performed with a low torque and slow cordless drill. Blow and wash clean when finished to keep the threading "in class".
Dont ever neglect wire wheeling all the fasteners as well! Then, I usually assemble stuff with a good grade of copper or nickel anti sieze. Ideally, and I do mean if you live in Pleasantville, the fasteners should screw together by finger then tightened. In reality, if theres 20 head bolts, I do use the same cordless drill to run the stuff down before torqueing with a socket drive adapter. If 5 lbs breaks a bolt, theres more trouble than a dirty hole anyway! Can you tell Ive had carpal tunnel jobs done twice on both paws???
In regards to Mikes original question, use the Ford approved tool for tightening! Its under the seat and fits the wheel lugs and spark plugs. Its a foot long for a reason. Make them "pretty tight" which is about 50 lbs. Dont forget to use some spray copper lube on the gasket. ws

Kohnke Rebabbitting · 09-29-2012, 10:25 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

All Model T's torque the same, if the hole gave up, it was bad. We torque to 50, until the head doesn't need torquing any more.

yachtsmanbill · 09-29-2012, 11:10 AM

Dont say that across the hall Herm... theyll lambast you for not mentioning studs, and grade eight bolts!! I wonder if those rocket scientists even realize that with a 7/16 headbolt the block threads are 3/4 - 1" deep and the bolt should fail before the reciever. That is if there isnt any deterioration on the block from water, or a scientist installing a 3/8 bolt! ws

RonC · 10-01-2012, 07:37 AM

Taps are for cutting new threads only. Use thread chasers instead.

yachtsmanbill · 10-01-2012, 08:44 AM

So out of the 8000 drills,taps and dies Ive got from a 40 year career as a maintenace machinist at a power plant, (including boxed tap and die sets) how do I tell the difference between taps and chasers?
The first 12V71 Detroit I rebuilt shot all the head bolts out and they went through the roof like .50 cal. slugs LOL! >>C'mon!!
When I do my cursory cleaning, theres never any metal removed, and the fasteners screw in usually 100 per cent by finger. I always test before final assembly.
Still looking for a used 1-7/8 X 16 die nut (!) for the "T" exhaust packing thread on the manifold. ws

Royce P · 10-02-2012, 05:47 AM

The early blocks are not as good quality iron. You will pull all the threads out of most pre - 1915 blocks at 55 lbs of torque.

Clean all the surfaces completely dry. Spray Krylon Dull aluminum lacquer on both sides of the head gasket. Install the head and gasket when the paint is dry to the touch. Tighten the head bolts evenly. If you insist on using a torque wrench I would not go over 45 LB - Ft.

09-28-2012, 10:47 PM	#1
drpepper1885 Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Kingwood, Texas Posts: 80	Changing head gasket on a 1912 Good evening, When you torque the head bolts on one of the early blocks (mine is a 1912), do you torque to 55 lbs or something less? At 55 lbs, I have already had to helicoil two bolts. I heard that the early blocks were not cast as well as the later versions. I checked the trusty Ford Service Manual and it was silent about how much to tighten the head bolts. Your comments are greatly appreciated. Thank you, Mike

09-29-2012, 02:20 AM	#2
dumb person Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: South pacific island Posts: 1,724	Re: Changing head gasket on a 1912 45ft/lbs max. There was nothing written in the owners manual because torque wrench was not invented yet.

09-29-2012, 07:57 AM	#3
Doug Money Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 350	Re: Changing head gasket on a 1912 Make sure you clean the crud out of the holes before you put the bolts in. The crud jams the bolts and helps pull the threads out.

09-29-2012, 08:01 AM	#4
fordman67 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Evansville IN U.S.A. Posts: 395	Re: Changing head gasket on a 1912 Brake kleen and a blow gun work real well to clean em out with. __________________ 1925 tudor (restoration) 1941 tudor"street rod" project1964 fairlane tube chassis "street car" 1996 f-350 crew cab 4x stroker! Na, I dont like working on cars...I exist for it!

09-29-2012, 09:03 AM	#5
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: Changing head gasket on a 1912 Anytime I rebuild ANYTHING, I re-qualify all the threaded holes. Sometimes its a bump with a correct sized drill to clear the bottom of crud followed with a bottom tap usually all performed with a low torque and slow cordless drill. Blow and wash clean when finished to keep the threading "in class". Dont ever neglect wire wheeling all the fasteners as well! Then, I usually assemble stuff with a good grade of copper or nickel anti sieze. Ideally, and I do mean if you live in Pleasantville, the fasteners should screw together by finger then tightened. In reality, if theres 20 head bolts, I do use the same cordless drill to run the stuff down before torqueing with a socket drive adapter. If 5 lbs breaks a bolt, theres more trouble than a dirty hole anyway! Can you tell Ive had carpal tunnel jobs done twice on both paws??? In regards to Mikes original question, use the Ford approved tool for tightening! Its under the seat and fits the wheel lugs and spark plugs. Its a foot long for a reason. Make them "pretty tight" which is about 50 lbs. Dont forget to use some spray copper lube on the gasket. ws __________________ " Warning; the following contains content that the anal retentive may find offensive - please skip on to the next posting!"

09-29-2012, 10:25 AM	#6
Kohnke Rebabbitting Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: 60615,330th Ave.,Clare, Iowa, 50524 Posts: 1,457	Re: Changing head gasket on a 1912 Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) All Model T's torque the same, if the hole gave up, it was bad. We torque to 50, until the head doesn't need torquing any more.

09-29-2012, 11:10 AM	#7
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: Changing head gasket on a 1912 Dont say that across the hall Herm... theyll lambast you for not mentioning studs, and grade eight bolts!! I wonder if those rocket scientists even realize that with a 7/16 headbolt the block threads are 3/4 - 1" deep and the bolt should fail before the reciever. That is if there isnt any deterioration on the block from water, or a scientist installing a 3/8 bolt! ws __________________ " Warning; the following contains content that the anal retentive may find offensive - please skip on to the next posting!"

10-01-2012, 07:37 AM	#8
RonC Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 1,868	Re: Changing head gasket on a 1912 Taps are for cutting new threads only. Use thread chasers instead.

10-01-2012, 08:44 AM	#9
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: Changing head gasket on a 1912 So out of the 8000 drills,taps and dies Ive got from a 40 year career as a maintenace machinist at a power plant, (including boxed tap and die sets) how do I tell the difference between taps and chasers? The first 12V71 Detroit I rebuilt shot all the head bolts out and they went through the roof like .50 cal. slugs LOL! >>C'mon!! When I do my cursory cleaning, theres never any metal removed, and the fasteners screw in usually 100 per cent by finger. I always test before final assembly. Still looking for a used 1-7/8 X 16 die nut (!) for the "T" exhaust packing thread on the manifold. ws __________________ " Warning; the following contains content that the anal retentive may find offensive - please skip on to the next posting!"

10-02-2012, 05:47 AM	#10
Royce P Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tulsa OK Posts: 476	Re: Changing head gasket on a 1912 The early blocks are not as good quality iron. You will pull all the threads out of most pre - 1915 blocks at 55 lbs of torque. Clean all the surfaces completely dry. Spray Krylon Dull aluminum lacquer on both sides of the head gasket. Install the head and gasket when the paint is dry to the touch. Tighten the head bolts evenly. If you insist on using a torque wrench I would not go over 45 LB - Ft.