Ford Rear Brake Drum repair

[Macdozer]

I Have a set of rear drums off of a 1935 coupe which has been converted to hydraulic brakes at some point.
My plan is to get these turned, replace seals, check bearings and reuse.

Wondering if someone can tell me what year these hubs are.
Also looks like two of the studs I will have to replace, one isn't seated down and they don't look like the others.
Any pointers for getting the old ones out ?
where can I find replacement studs ones ?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Macdozer

I Have a set of rear drums off of a 1935 coupe which has been converted to hydraulic brakes at some point.
My plan is to get these turned, replace seals, check bearings and reuse.

Wondering if someone can tell me what year these hubs are.
Also looks like two of the studs I will have to replace, one isn't seated down and they don't look like the others.
Any pointers for getting the old ones out ?
where can I find replacement studs ones ?

[koates]

You should also have a close inspection of the female taper inside the hub to make sure it is not worn. It must fit the axle taper precisely. Also measure across the drum braking surface to make sure it is not machined oversize. Regards, Kevin.

[Bob C]

Looks like somebody welded the two studs in instead of swaging them.

[DavidG]

We need to see the outside of the drum's sides to ascertain its vintage.

[B-O-B]

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I would guess that they are 1940. You can get studs at auto parts supply, Dorman product.
They can be pressed out & in. They are swaged.
JMHO

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by DavidG

We need to see the outside of the drum's sides to ascertain its vintage.

It appears to me in the first picture, the drum on the right has the 3 ribs that are on the 35 drums. Koates also mentioned checking the hub tapers as I think he saw the rust in the first picture. If someone tries to press the studs out without cutting the swadge the hub could be distorted. I like to center drill the backside of the stud and then drill to the proper depth so that they can be easily punched out. I believe a drill press or milling machine is necessary to do a good job. I have 2 freshly turned drums that I have been unable to find good hubs to install. Fred at Southsideobsolete.com has the correct studs at a fair price. Michael at 3rdGen could supply them also.

[cas3]

The hub has the 5 support bumps for 35 wire wheels, but the drum looks odd to me, I agree with David, I'd like to see the side of the drum.

The welded studs are from someone who replaced the drum, or the studs and was too lazy to swedge them in. That could be fixed with the dorman stud and drill size provided at Bolling Bros web site. A better question is, how is the inside bearing surface?

[Macdozer]

A few more pics to help ID what I have.
I will have to remove the seals to further inspect condition.

[DavidG]

'35s.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Macdozer

A few more pics to help ID what I have.
I will have to remove the seals to further inspect condition.

[Macdozer]

Ok thank you
I didn’t realize 35 drums could be used with hydraulic brakes.
What wheel studs can I use to replace the two welded ones ?
Are there any that don’t require swedging ?

[cas3]

35 drums are the same dimensions as far as shoe size as all fords up to 48. As I previously mentioned, the replacement stud and proper drill size is at bolling bros. site, they are the folks who make the best repo drums

[rich b]

Guess I would measure the drum to see if it can turned and check the bearing surface for wear and pitting. If that is all good, then figure out what to do about the studs.

Until you get them out, you won't know the condition of the holes or if stock studs can be installed.

The studs cas3 mentioned are Dorman 610-234. They require a .600 hole. I haven't used them in a '35 drum, so if you consider them it would be good idea to check the shank and overall length on Dorman's web sight to be sure they are suitable.

If all else fails later Ford drums will work with the addition of a wire wheel support ring.

[Macdozer]

Got the seal out.
Here are a few pictures of the inside.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Macdozer

Got the seal out.
Here are a picture of the inside.

[rotorwrench]

Swage cutters are available to prepare for removal of a stud that was swaged properly. No favors were done by someone welding the studs in there. That stuff will have to be cleaned up before installing proper replacement studs. The swaging tools are also available but a person needs a fairly heavy duty press to properly swage those studs,

[Karl Wolf]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Swage cutters are available to prepare for removal of a stud that was swaged properly. No favors were done by someone welding the studs in there. That stuff will have to be cleaned up before installing proper replacement studs. The swaging tools are also available but a person needs a fairly heavy duty press to properly swage those studs,

NOTE: The swage cutter won't work if you want to reuse the drum.
Drill the offending stud from the back side. I start with a smaller size drill, say 5/16". Stay centered, increase drill size- the object is to punch the stud out the front. I use a micrometer to measure the new stud. Look for a press fit of .002- .006, or so. (REAL old memories). Swaging the new studs may be optional, as the Ford ones have a flat to keep them from spinning.

Karl

[drolston]

If the brake drums are badly grooved and need to be turned, there are three issues. 1) there is a limit as how far than be turned (I do not remember the number). 2) You would be well advised to have the brake shoes arc'ed to match the larger radius of the turned drums. 3) With drum brakes a thing of the past, finding someone with a lathe set up to turn those drums could be challenging.

[itslow]

The two studs with the welds have already been replaced once. You won't have to worry about removing the swaging on the wheel side of the drum. Press them out, clean off the weld, and press in new studs.

That said, it would be advisable to replace all the studs at the same time, which would require removal of the swage on the other three. There are a few methods to do so while allowing re-use of the drum assembly. You can do a search of past posts to find descriptions of the processes.