Stock Temp

[Fibber Mcgee]

I know this might seem like useless info but where should temp run on stock temp gauge ?I was wondering is it supposed to stay right in the middle or is ok until it gets to the H.I know new cars gauges don't move unless something is wrong(I don't think they are really hooked to anything)but mine goes up in traffic but not to the H. I plan on checking with another gauge but I just wondered what was normal.

[Mart]

Sounds about right to me.

Modern cars don't read high unless something is seriously wrong, as you say.

[4dFord/SC]

At this time of year, mine stays on the "N" most of the time. In the summer, it may move up to somewhere between "N" and "H."

[41ford1]

The pickup runs at the high end of the normal range. It will rise to the H when in traffic. I did install an electric fan to assist the air flow when in traffic. When it is on the gauge stays at the high end of normal. The measured temp on my engine at the high normal mark is 180°F.
X3 on the newer cars. Don't compare 70 year old tech to the new stuff.

[Brendan]

my stock temp gouge dose not work, i put in a Stewart Warner gouge under the dash. also a oil pressure gouge, i am glad i did. because i got some more life out of the old motor.

[richard crow]

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on my 40 in the summer it reads between 1/2- 3/4 i check the eng with one of those infa ray gun & it reads 160 .thats why a lot of people see a high reading on the gauge but eng is not overheating. the gauges are not that true always check with a heat gun if your geting a high reading on the gauge before going nuts trying to fix a proulbem that may not be there

[Old Henry]

deleted

[G.M.]

Fibber the stock temperature gauges all vary. You need to get a laser pointed thermometer to find the correct temperature of the water in both sides of the engine. The radiator temperature is NOT the way to check it and you don't want to take the cap off when the coolant is hot. Both sides of the engine are completely separate cooling systems not connected in the engine and each side has it's own pump. The water of both sides only mixes when it is in the radiator so the radiator temperature is a mixture of both sides. Take the temperatures on both sides in the center of the head on the metal just below the radiator hoses. Both temperatures should be within a few degrees of each other at all times. If not the hot side has a problem and in most cases is a slight compression leak which can usually be corrected with a bottle of Barrs stop leak. It is normal for these engines to run hotter in warmer weather in traffic than driveing at 35 or 40 MPH do to poor supply of air from the fan. When they do get warm in traffic they should come back down to what is normal for your car in about 1 mile. Once you see the temperature with the laser look at the panel gauge and you will know what you have when looking at the gauge driveing. These guns run in the $30.00 range and are very useful for other things also. I just bought a brand new Raytec on ebay for $12.00 last week. I go through Callahan on my short cut to I-75. G.M.

[Fibber Mcgee]

Thanks for the replies I've ordered a Infrared therometer so I will do what was said above.The gauge seemed a little high but the engine seemed cooler than my 49 and it never runs over 180(I have a mechanical gauge on it)so I just wanted some insight before it gets hot.G.M. you must go 301 from 95 to 75 its a good shortcut just watch out for speed traps.

[G.M.]

I'm well aware of the speed traps on 301. I have been going this route for 30 years so it's no big deal for me. They even had the speed trap problem on TV a number of years ago. It's the trains I have to watch out for in one of the towns in your area, I believe its Callahan. Your going to like the laser thermometer. You can check the brake drums to make sure they are not dragging. G.M.

[EdB]

reoor supply of air from fan ..I am wondering why radiator shrouds are not used on autos ...would they have a cooling effect?

[Fibber Mcgee]

Originally Posted by G.M.

I'm well aware of the speed traps on 301. I have been going this route for 30 years so it's no big deal for me. They even had the speed trap problem on TV a number of years ago. It's the trains I have to watch out for in one of the towns in your area, I believe its Callahan. Your going to like the laser thermometer. You can check the brake drums to make sure they are not dragging. G.M.

Callahan is where I live and we have the most train traffic in Florida thru here,I had read once its up to 50 a day.

[G.M.]

EdB There are 3 things that will improve cooling on an old Ford. More water, more flow of water through the radiator and more air. Any of the above will improve the cooling and all 3 will make it where it will never overheat. I have a 39 P/U with all 3. With a 4 lb pressure cap I get more water, I fill it up to the filler neck and it stays there for months. More water flow, Skips pumps move more water than any other pumps almost doubling the flow. More air with a shroud and a 6 bladed industrial fan. This truck will run at a fast idle for over 2 hours in 100 degree outside temperature and never get over 180. This was a larger truck shroud I modified and put it on upside down. There are pictures of some shrouds in the Ford green parts book. Walker radiator and others make shrouds but I don't know what they look like. Ford 8N tractor parts suppliers have new reproductions shouds for Ford tractors that look like they would adapt to old Fords with out many changes. I don't know why someone hasn't made better fan blades. I don't like those plastic fans. I went through the working area of the local Chevy body shop and saw a pick up with the grill and radiator out that the fan was about 18"s with about 8 blades. This looked interesting. Might even pull the old Ford along like an airboat. I don't think it was a Chevy. G.M.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by G.M.

You need to get a laser pointed thermometer to find the correct temperature of the water. The radiator temperature is NOT the way to check it. G.M.

OK. I give in. No more of my wife's candy thermometer in the radiator.
I went down to the scout office and got my trusty Official Boy Scout issue Red Rider Laser Pointed Infrared Instant Trigger Fired No-touch Thermometer* and took the following readings to see what the engine temperature was at different readings on the dashboard gauge.

Start with key on and engine cold (45 deg. ambient temp). Here's how the gauge reads at minimum:



Then warmed it up to 1/4 on the gauge. Here it is with corresponding temperature:



Then at about 5/8ths on the gauge. In answer to the original question of what is normal. On my car, this is the low end of "normal" range. This is what it's on the whole winter. This is the temperature the thermostats keep it at. (Oddly enough, this is exactly the same temperature shown on the candy thermometer in my radiator earlier. Maybe that wasn't so far wrong.) Forturately, I have the Super Deluxe fresh air heater so that even with this winter high temp of under 140 I can get roasted out if I want to.



That's as high as I could get before the thermostats opened and I had to block the radiator to get it any higher:



Then 3/4 on the gauge:



Then as high as I could get the temperature to go idling at about 1500 with maximum draw on the generator to add some load. In the summer I regularly see this reading on the gauge on long climbs on a hot day. I don't worry too much about it and even a little higher as long as it's still on the black mark. It has never boiled over there. Past that mark it may well blow although I've never got that high.



If I had been able to get it hot enough to open the left sender it would have gone to maximum (same as key off.) That's probably the point that it would blow.



Hope this helps.

*Thermometer is actually a Raytek MT4 I got off the shelf from NAPA for $60.00.

[G.M.]

Your going to be dangerous now with your new toy. I bought a new Raytec MT4 on ebay last week for $12.00 plus $10.00 shipping. I have several other types but like the Raytec small MT series the best. You need to check the temperature. I have seen a few that are off. When the temperature in your house is set at lets say 78 degrees and has been there for a few days most all the items in the house are 78, just point it at the walls etc. For anyone buying one at a store check it on items in the store. I had a friend bought one a Sears a few years ago and he came around with it and right away I knew it was way off. I told him to go back to Sears and show them on items in the store it was off against another one and they gave hin a new one. DON't get close to ignition wire or you will zap it. First few times the display stays on and you have to remove the battery. After 3 or 4 times it won't work any more. I rapped aluminum foil around it letting the "windows open" and covered the foil with duct tape and never had another failure. G.M.

[Old Henry]

I wish I'd had time to wait for Ebay. Here are 22 for sale from $7 to $70. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trkp...&_sop=15&_sc=1

I decided to get mine before I leave for Death Valley on Wednesday so had to "pay the piper."

[G.M.]

Take it on the trip. You can prevent bad problems before they happen. Check brake drums, should be less than 125. You can check the temperature of the gas in the bowl on the outside of the carb, should be below 120 when it gets ANY HIGHER beware. Rear, trans, wheel bearings, fuel tank temp, tire temp and generator temps can all be checked with a point and click. G.M.

[Fibber Mcgee]

I think I'm going to have fun with the infrared thermometer,thanks for the advice.And Thanks Old Henry for the experiment thats very helpful I hopr mine turns out to be like yours.