Removal of Rear Axle Bell

[Ed Solari]

On a 34 Ford the rear axle bell housing with the axle is attached to the differential case with series of bolts. Can one just remove these bolts and pull away from the differential case with out any reassemble issues. That is to look inside to see the condition of the bearings and spider gear and if it looks good just reassemble. Any ideas about the need to do any major bearing replacement to a 51K mile car??? The transmission showed minimum wear so I assume that will extend to the differential (ie proper service). Everything in the rear axle section seems tight but is that enough to say it is good?

Thanks for your opinions!!!!!

[Charlie Stephens]

Ed,

The gaskets between the bells and the center section are also shims. Be sure to measure their thickness and replace with the same thickness. You might want to replace the seals inside the housings and near the end of the housings (by the backing plates). Then there are the seals next to the wheel bearings.

Charlie Stephens

[Mart]

Yes, as long as you have pulled the hubs first.
If you only want a quick peek inside, pull the left side. If you want you can leave the right in place. The axle and differential assembly can be removed from the left side.
(with the pinion still in place).
As stated above, measure gasket thickness, replace with like.
Mart.

[Scott H]

So if I need to clean the sludge out of the banjo the easist way is to pull the left bell with the left axle; the differential will slide out also?

Since I already started on the right side, Can I pull the right bell without any issues?

I've already got the right hub and backing plate removed for cleaning. I pulled the banjo drain plug and nothing came out...until I poked it with a screwdriver and then the gooey sludge started to drip. I pulled the fill plug and some of the sludge came out of there as well. I took a squirt can of ATF and pumped a bunce of shots in thru the top hole, trying to bathe the gears. Then I rotated the right axle to disburse the ATF a bit. It seemed to help more sludge drain out.
But of course now I don't want to put it back together without really doing a proper cleaning, so I think I need to pull both bells to get to all the sludge.
I already have an assortment of gaskets to get the right thickness for reassembly.

Right Bell.jpg
And no, the taper on the end of the axle isn't rusty, that's dirty oil from inside the bearing hub I'm in the process of cleaning, I just slipped the hub back on to rotate the axle.

[Lawson Cox]

When you reassemble, make sure all grease and oil is removed from the taper on the end of the axel, and the taper in the hub, and reassemble clean and dry.

[Scott H]

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Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

When you reassemble, make sure all grease and oil is removed from the taper on the end of the axel, and the taper in the hub, and reassemble clean and dry.

Thanks, I'll keep it clean and dry!

What about my questions regarding removal of the bell, are you able to help with that. Luv your avatar by the way.

[Barry WNY]

No you won't be able to pull it apart from the right side, end up with the whole thing apart. Better to finish that side up &put it back together, start on the other side. BUT, the axle seal is on the inside, was the brakes dry &free of gear oil? If so do the left but if it looks like the gear oil had been coming through to the hub... Well cleaned up &fresh oil &warmed up the seal may leak worse, gear oil on brakes. Someone else may have tried to replace a seal with the center section in place, working around the pinion? Don't imagine it's doable. That may be cause for total disassembly IMO.

[PeteVS]

It appears that you have the spring out. Why not unbolt the torque flange up front and take out the entire rear? It might be easier to work on it. Also, DON'T chase the axle housing bolt holes with a tap. Those bolts are an extra close fit to keep the axle grease from leaking out around them.