Aries Stainless Steel Muffler

[jeepguy1948]

I have no experience with SS Ariens mufflers, but I can say this as fact; 2 weeks ago our Local club had what we call “Over Under Day” where anybody can bring their Model A and our experts will go over it prepping it for the summer season. I decided to check that clamp on each car while it was on the lift. 10 out of 10 cars had the clamp wrenched down tight, 10 out of 10! On not a single one did the owners know that was a problem. @ of the cars had the exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold as is where the problem comes. I don’t know this for a fact but I’m wondering if the Ariens pipe is just a wee bit bigger (that extra breathing has to come from somewhere). Several of the cars had that clamp installed just as Les Andrews show’s it’s to be installed, the only way the clamp could be loosened was to actually loosen up the bolt and nut that hold the clamp and let everything “float”.

[Gene F]

Can I ask a related question. I have heard the bend is often not right, and they need to be heated up and bent. Any one have any comments? I have not heard the tone comment before, but I guess that goes with the territory.

[nkaminar]

The Aries product is reported to be an exact duplicate of the original muffler and tail pipe.

The nut on the bolt that holds the clamp at the rear should be a castle nut with cotter key or a self locking nut using deformed threads, not Nylon insert. That way it can be left a little bit loose.

[old31]

I have a Aries SS for about 5 years and love it.

[jb-ob]

Please describe 'loose at the rear clamp'?

Is it the tail pipe inside the clamp or clamp loose attached to the frame ?

I bought an Aries '28 style muffler for my '28 Fordor, not a show car but because I wanted the correct muffler for the car.

First I attempted to install an original '28-29 clamp which had to be 'spread' using a chisel in order to slide the clamp over the tail pipe. Instant the chisel was removed, the clamp locked in place. No way was this ever going to be loose.

I then ordered the approved Aries clamp, '30-31 style. Honestly I don't remember if it fit the tail pipe because now the muffler body was hitting the service brake cross shaft.

Last compromise was to use a clamp pictured in the Service Bulletins for a Station Wagon. While it too had to be spread with a chisel to install, at least the muffler body didn't hit the service brake cross shaft. Removing the chisel, this clamp locked in place as well.

I have no problem spending more to get more. It didn't work this time.

Hopefully 'your mileage will differ'.

[jeepguy1948]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

My crude definition is that you should be able to grab it with your hand and rattle it

[alexiskai]

I bought "Chris in WNC"s old Aries SS muffler and now I've just ordered the special clamp from Aries, so this thread has been quite timely for me.

[The Master Cylinder]

I have had a Aries S/S muffler for a couple of years now and have had no problems with it. The only issue I have had is I didn't like the shine so I buffed it with a fine Scotch Brite to make it dull.

[DJ S]

The only thing I dislike about the Aeries S/S muffler is the supplied "insulated" rear clamp. The padding wears out of it and starts rattling like crazy....I have replaced it a couple of times only to encounter the same results. I know I am not the only one, a fellow club member has the same issue.

[clifforddward]

FWIW, Neil is correct, and the insulated clamp as supplied by Aries includes a castle nut.

[Synchro909]

On my way to the National Rally in 2014 (a 2,000 mile trip), the rear clamp disappeared somewhere and the whole exhaust was dangling by the manifold clamp. Fortunately, someone saw it (from behind me) and told me about it. I immediately bought a new clamp from a vendor at the meet and installed it. It was one of those padded things and it didn't get me home again before it was rattling so badly that pedestrians knew I was coming from miles away.
Since then, I have used a different method of holding the rear end of the exhaust. I have seen a rubber ring used - like a modern car but I use the original clamp with a spacer so that it can't be done up tight. I wrap a piece of paper or cling wrap around the pipe where it will be in the clamp and load it with plenty of silicone. I choose a variety that sets fairy hard. I put 3 or 4 wooden match sticks in it and clamp it up so that I have a layer of silicone that thick all around the pipe. Once it is set, I trim it (fussy, I know) and drive on. The paper or cling wrap means the silicone doesn't adhere to the pipe and it can slide through it. The paper burns off quite quickly and I'm left with a silicone pad to stop the rattles. I have to redo it every 20,000 miles or so but that's fine by me. Never a problem since.
BTW, I have read many times here that the manifold tends to sag because of the weight of the exhaust hanging on it. I believe that is only half of the problem. If the rear clamp is too tight, as the exhaust expands, it will push forward on the manifold and add significant force to it in such a way that it can't help but bend. The pipe MUST be able to slide through the clamp

[amuffler]

The issues mentioned about the Aries Stainless Steel muffler were posted about 10 years ago. Since then we have taken steps to solve this issue of the the tail pipe breaking apart from the muffler. We found the expansion and contraction of stainless steel is 3 times as great a steel. We developed an insulated muffler clamp for the tail pipe, which allows the pipe to move back and forth and not create stresses in the joint at the tail pipe connection. We also changed the welding procedure at this joint. It is now stress relieved after welding. In the last 5 years, I have not heard of any failures where the insulated clamp was used. I would love to hear feed back, as we are constantly trying to improve our products. email anytime to: [email protected] We now include an insulated tail pipe clamp with all our stainless steel mufflers, if anyone has a stainless muffler and does not have an insulated clamp, please call or send an email, we will send you one free of charge.

[nkaminar]

Synchro brought up the subject of the cast iron creeping over time due to stress on it. Cast iron will grow when heated even without any stress on it. If anyone has seen an old wood burning stove that has been used for years, the cast iron grates in the firebox are all warped out of shape. This is the reason many were discarded. Cast iron will take a permanent set when stressed and heated but it takes a high temperature, red hot.

Old model airplane engine had cast iron pistons and no rings. The pistons would wear and the engine would loose compression after a while. The fix is to heat the pistons so that they would expand to restore the compression.

When making cast iron piston rings, the rings are machined round to the bore. After they are completed the ring is broken in one spot and then a piece of metal is inserted at the break to expand the rings. The ring is then heated and takes a permanent set so that it is spring loaded against the cylinder wall. I cannot remember the temperature. I think I had a furnace and heated the rings to dull red heat. But don't quote me on that.

Warped cast iron manifolds can be straightened by carefully bending the manifold after the cast iron is brought to a cherry red heat. This works about 50% of the time, the other times the manifold cracks.

[nkaminar]

To bring the discussion back to the subject at hand. I have the Ares performance muffler, not stainless, and am very happy with it. My engine puts out about 80 hp. I have tried headers and an open exhaust system but the stock exhaust manifold with the Ares muffler is just as good, and certainly not as noisy. I have the original style clamp in the back and keep it loose enough that the pipe can move.

[Keith True]

I put an Aries stainless muffler on my 30 pickup about 18 years ago.It has been used for around 26,000 miles since then.I've never had a problem with the original type clamp on it.I bought the muffler from LeBaron Bonney after they came back from a show.The muffler had been dropped,and had a little dent.I got it pretty cheap,as is,where is.I was on my own as far as fit.I had a pipe bender and made a couple of adjustments,so I could hold it in place with a nice fit to the manifold and a nice fit through the clamp.No jacking,pulling,or pushing to get it there.Zero stress on anything to clamp it up.I don't know if the insulated clamp would do anything for me or not.I happened to be in LB for something small,and spotted that muffler on the showroom floor.I strapped it on to my motorcycle verticaly,and rode the 12 miles or so home.Looked like I had a big chrome stack.

[Ordsgt]

I have an Aries Stainless on my 30 Tudor and have about 6500 miles on it and no issues. I do have the clamp from Aries that has the insulator and have it mounted as specified. No issues at all. Would buy again, and probably will on current build

[ThosD]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

I have the Ares performance muffler, not stainless, and am very happy with it.

Can you comment on the sound/noise level of the performance muffler; does the reduced back pressure offer a noticeable improvement in performance?
TIA, Tom

[Gene F]

nkaminar this is good info. Thanks

[P.S.]

Here is a video of Joe Davis himself talking about this subject- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMeM5WbKkOg

Here is a video comparing the Aries steel muffler to the other repro one- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK_ixIUdyMQ&t=180s

[jeepguy1948]

Our local club has what we call a “get out and get under” day every spring where some of us help out the less mechanically inclined in hopes of keeping them on the road and participating in our activities. For grins I assigned myself the task of checking the exhaust clamps. I would say that at least 3 of every 4 are wrong. Your results may vary…….