New buy will need help from all of you

[Paperman]

Originally Posted by flatford8

IMO a restoration can get overwhelming. Alot of time,work and money. I like your plan. Make the brakes and suspension safe and dependable. A good running motor. The electrical system safe and reliable. Do the interior as much as makes you comfortable. Then drive the wheels off it!!!!!!........Mark from Maine.

Yep I fell in that trap on some other projects thats why I wanted this car as it was as clean and complete as it is.

Can I get some more info on what you guys are talking about on the lights, a picture of the correct set would be nice. Also the brakes, I assume this is a cable set-up, what are "brake floaters" Ill start using the search button, thanks a bunch guys.

PS What is the best way to ask my list of questions here, keep them all in this thread or break them out into different subjects?

Robert Kesling
Ludington MI

[JSeery]

38 Ford original style headlight.

[Pat/Ohio]

Robert, Welcome to the 'Barn! You might consider visiting the Early Ford V-8 Club's website at www.efv8.org also. I would also consider joining the Early Ford V-8 Club of America. There is a Regional Group of the Early Ford V-8 Club in your area probably. These are great sources for information and help.

Good luck, Pat

[JM 35 Sedan]

I would suggest starting a project thread titled with what your project is or about, but keep that thread going with everything you do or need help with. So many here will make a new thread for each and everything they do on their project making it tough for others to understand whats been done vs. what needs to be done vs. what has been suggested/recommended by others. JMO

ps... the interior looks to be pretty much intact based on your last picture posted.

pss...most early Ford V8er's who love these old Fords will drool over that car way more than they would a high point totally restored show car.

[Paperman]

Thank you all for the help of the fledgling flathead lover. I hope to get this thing in shape to drive next year. I assuem cable brakes, do the cables run in free air like the rods did or are they in a covering of some sort?

[LOWRIDER]

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Nice car! Just picked up a 38 Deluxe 2dr myself last week. Mine is a 57k survivor car from Mn. Amazingly rust free for a car from a northern state. A few "battle scars" on the fenders but the black paint still has a shine to it. Seems to run, stop & steer good (in my yard at least) and looks good underneath on the hoist. First repairs is to replace the petrified wiring with the new looms that came with the car. My plans are similar to yours so I'll be watching for more posts about your car.

[Seth Swoboda]

Nice car. Welcome to the fordbarn. Join the Early Ford V8 Club like others have mentioned. I also like your plan. Clean it up, go through the mechanicals and you should be set. If you need original ford parts visit the swap meet page here on the barn. You will find about everything you could need there. You will find guys here that are excellent carb rebuilders and ignition specialists. Keep us up to date with your progress.

Contact Tyree Harris for any wiring you will need. I believe his number is 804-556-5200.

[TonyM]

Originally Posted by Paperman

Thank you all for the help of the fledgling flathead lover. I hope to get this thing in shape to drive next year. I assuem cable brakes, do the cables run in free air like the rods did or are they in a covering of some sort?

Cables are exposed from the brake cross shaft up until about 21 inches from the backing plates. From there they are covered, entering a conduit all the way to the brake backing plates.

[TonyM]

Before replacing the engine you will need to determine whether the car was originally equipped with a 60 hp engine or an 85 hp engine. The radiator and transmission are different and will not interchange between 60hp and 85hp. The rear end ratio is also different between the two engine models. A 60hp car was equipped with a 4.44 to 1 rear end ratio; the 85hp car was equipped with 3.78 to 1 rear end ratio.

[38Tudor]

Nice to see your dash still has some original wood grain to it. Mine has been wiped away.
A hard part to find is the cigar lighter.

[Paperman]

Looks like I have some added holes front and back. Im going to guess turn signals?

[Paperman]

Here is a shot of my engine bay, can you tell externally what trans it is, what engine I need to hunt for? Im tearing up Craigslist and starting to hit scrap yards to find some donors.

[38Tudor]

The car did not come with turn signals. Someone added them at some point that's why the holes. That's why you have aftermarket turn signal switch.
It looks like your trunk lid came off a 1937. I'm looking at the external hinge holes. Also the ford front emblem is missing. It's hard to tell from the picture but just above that should be a small emblem that says 85 or 60. That will tell you the motor.

[38Tudor]

Here's a picture of mine
IMG_8848.jpg

[Mart]

I'm not an expert, but I'd say the motor is the more common 85 horse, because the trans looks like the type that matches and the crossmember looks stock to me. I'm not a 38 or 60hp expert but I think the crossmember had the 60hp mounts added to it.

I would be looking for any engine 38-48 to fit in. They are broadly compatible, you would just have to address things like mech fan if you want to run one.

Again, I'm not 100% certain, but as the last year for mech brakes, the 38's were as good as they get, and (correct me if I'm wrong) were already a "floater" type design.

If the brakes are in good condition there would not be any real gain from going to hydraulics.

Good luck with it, it looks like a neat project. You just need to scare up a donor engine and get er up and runnin.

Mart.

[Paperman]

Alright I looked and it has an 85 over the space for the emblem. Man,you guys know your stuff.

Proper truck lid would not have holes? I see the hinges inside the trunk and assumed they bolted through the holes in the lid with some sort of dressed up nuts or sum such thing. it should be smoth in the back?

Edit: What say you all on the blinker holes, find some decent aged light and make them work or just leave the holes? I think it would look better with some sort of light in there even if they are not correct. Better then a empty hole.

[JM 35 Sedan]

When looking at your engine compartment picture, I do not see the 60 hp motor/radiator mounts that are normally riveted over top of the 85 hp mounts using the three small holes in the front crossmenber on each side. Now granted someone could have removed those, but I dought that. As others are saying, your car was most likely an 85 hp to begin with. That means the engine would have been either a 21 stud if the car was built very early, or more than likely a 24 stud if built later in the model year.

[green50]

Paperman, I sent you a PM. Lead on an engine.

[OLD...BILL]

Welcome to the Barn, we like pictures, you will find more help than you need here, what you have been told so fare, is good, get rid of those headlight things, in the trash. not for sale.... the original glass is so much nicer. and yes you car was an 85 hp. so the 24 stud is the engine you will look for, with "59" cast on the bellhousing, as soon as you see it you will know it will fit your trans. Tail lights, yes the holes you see town low on the side is for the tail lights, there not very big about 2-1/2 dia, and not safe, you need to put a THIRD break light inside the rear window, no new holes in the body, you can put turn signels in the tail lights.... NO NEW HOLE or AFTER MARKET junk lights... I'll stop now....... OLD.....BILL

[flatjack9]

"59" engines are 46 to 48, but will fit just fine.