The Ford Barn

Old Henry · 06-08-2014, 05:52 PM

I just put a pair of Monroe shocks on my 47 front end to replace previous ones that were leaking and not working and, within a month, the new Monroes are leaking. (Got them from NAPA) So, I'd like to get better ones if they're available. Any high quality tube shocks for 47 anyone?

quickchange34 · 06-08-2014, 07:25 PM

Cross your Monroe shock number to Koni. Try on line.

Kube · 06-08-2014, 07:51 PM

Bilstien's are with little doubt the best shock available. A bit pricey but in my opinion well worth the cost.
I am certain your Monroe's are under warranty.
I run them on not only our trucks but the sports cars as well.

B-O-B · 06-08-2014, 08:55 PM

Have you checked to make sure you have the correct shock for your car?

Teich · 06-08-2014, 09:56 PM

Go back for the warranty have same shocks on my 48 for 5 year now still good, Friday afternoon ones?? Laurie

Old Henry · 06-08-2014, 10:20 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by B-O-B

Have you checked to make sure you have the correct shock for your car?

Don't know how to tell other than telling NAPA what they're for and buying what they give me. How else would I know?

TJ · 06-08-2014, 10:31 PM

Measure the distance of the shock mounting points with weight on the suspension. Then measure the extended and collapsed length of the shocks you have. As an example if the collapsed length is 9 inches and the extended length is 15 inches then mid range is 12 inches. Your distance between shock mounting points should also be 12 inches which gives you 3 inches of travel in either direction. If the seals are leaking I suspect that the shocks you have may be too long in the collapsed position and are bottoming out and blowing the seals. You also need to make sure all your "bump stops" are in place as the also limits downward travel of the shocks.

B-O-B · 06-08-2014, 10:40 PM

Go to Monroe shocks on line for your application. T J has it correct. I would not advise you to buy gas shocks either. Those are what tore the upper frame mount off my frame after I hit the raccoon & twisted the lower shock mount that I did not catch, also a very firm ride.

john in illinois · 06-09-2014, 08:06 AM

Non gas filled shocks are hard to find. Pete and Jakes make 2 sizes of non gas that are reasonably priced and work well. If you measure your static length ,one size might work.

John

PeteVS · 06-09-2014, 08:27 AM

I read somewhere that "over-using" shocks causes the oil inside to heat up. This destroys the rubber seals. Could be that your extensive trips on unimproved roads could be a part of your problem.

woodiewagon46 · 06-09-2014, 08:31 AM

I have Bilstiens on my '46 and I would recommend them.

TJ · 06-09-2014, 08:36 AM

There are different rates on gas shocks. Some give a stiffer ride than others. I 've actually had good luck with the cheaper Napa brand gas shocks.

oldford2 · 06-09-2014, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodiewagon46

I have Bilstiens on my '46 and I would recommend them.

Would you have a Bilstiens part# for fronts on a 46?
Thanks
John

DICK SPADARO · 06-09-2014, 09:04 AM

Before you do anything you need to follow TJ's advise and determine the shock travel, if you have developed a leak in your shocks and they are almost new then you are topping or bottoming them out and rupturing the seal. You need to know the operating travel of the shocks, you just cant stick any old part on or the same issue may develop.

Kube · 06-09-2014, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DICK SPADARO

Before you do anything you need to follow TJ's advise and determine the shock travel, if you have developed a leak in your shocks and they are almost new then you are topping or bottoming them out and rupturing the seal. You need to know the operating travel of the shocks, you just cant stick any old part on or the same issue may develop.

That's great advice. I might also add that as I recall the front end on OldHenry's car is drooping real bad. Most likely a worn out spring. I would think that too may put "undue" stress on a shock. Yes? No?

Old Henry · 06-09-2014, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldford2

Would you have a Bilstiens part# for fronts on a 46?
Thanks
John

I looked at Bilsteins's online catalogue and they said they don't make a shock for the '47.

Old Henry · 06-09-2014, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeteVS

I read somewhere that "over-using" shocks causes the oil inside to heat up. This destroys the rubber seals. Could be that your extensive trips on unimproved roads could be a part of your problem.

In a month from installation?

1oldtimer · 06-20-2014, 11:47 AM

I know this is a few weeks old, but I have Monroe Matics on my '47 with no problems for a few years now. Since my car didn't have them originally I mounted the stud in the front as close to a '48 as I could, but I still measured for total compressed/open length. Which did coincide with the stock number for the front, the rear is an old bolt on kit. I had KYB Gas-a-just on the rear which are great shocks but were way too firm, so the boaty matics fit the bill.

A bones · 06-20-2014, 11:16 PM

Can,t say what month, but read about a beam axle specific shock that is designed to tolerate the heat generated by our lack of travel length. I know this is a useless reference but hang on 'til tomorrow and I'll find a name.

47Merc · 06-21-2014, 03:22 AM

A little while ago in answer to a question about 47 shock mounts, you posted a picture of the shock absorbers on the front of your car at it showed that they are mounted at a fairly wide angle for front shocks which are usually mounted nearly vertical.

Is it possible that the angle they are at is putting to much side loading on the shock absorber shafts as they are forced up and it is chewing the seals out.

Seth Swoboda · 06-21-2014, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kube

That's great advice. I might also add that as I recall the front end on OldHenry's car is drooping real bad. Most likely a worn out spring. I would think that too may put "undue" stress on a shock. Yes? No?

I haven't seen OldHenry's front spring but I know folks in my area that have a worn out front spring that is nearly flat with no arch left. It does affect the ride height of the car/truck. I would say yes, having a worn out front spring is not good for the ride. It wouldn't be a bad idea for anyone to replace worn out front or rear springs.

A bones · 06-21-2014, 03:26 PM

OKAY. I have a product name I just read of. RideTech at 812-481-4787 or www.ridetech.com They are straight axle specific, and come in two lengths. Oh yeah almost forgot the warranty is for 1,000,001 miles.

1oldtimer · 06-21-2014, 04:03 PM

I would say that worn springs only come into play from either bottoming or topping out the shock. Also the shock being at odd angles is taken up by both eyes and the piston so no side load on the seal (or very little). The extra action of the shock from worn springs might shorten the seal life over a LONG time from extra use, but not that quickly. I would like to know how long the other shocks lasted and did both Monroes leak or just one side. Below is my install on the '47. I almost forgot, most of the major brands have and online catalog that has some sort of measurement chart.

jimTN · 06-21-2014, 04:16 PM

First, determine the dimensions as discussed above, this is critical. Then, you can buy shocks by the dimensions, If you tell some parts counter jockey what they fit they will automatically tell you their books do not go back that far. I suspect you may have some shocks bottoming out. I have run airplane shocks of lots of old Fords in years past with really hard use and not had any leak but always matched them up by measurement. Of course you go go back to the original type lever action shocks which work well. I can tell you that 46-8 Fords have a weak front spring and do require rearch or replacement often.

Old Henry · 06-22-2014, 12:41 AM

I'm not sure where anyone got the idea that my front spring was worn out or sagging. I had it made brand new by a local spring manufacturer when I restored the car in 2007 so it's only 7 years old.

My shock installation is totally stock original so nothing wrong or unusual about it. I know the aftermarket add on shock kits that attach the bottom end of the shock to the sway bar bracket instead of the end of the axle move more vertical than Ford's design but, if you look at any modern vehicles that have tube shocks (the rear axle of any pickup is easy to see), they are always at at least a 60° angle so that's not the problem.

It was only the shock in my picture that sprung a leak but I replaced both.

When I replaced those month old shocks last Wednesday with new ones I checked the travel on the blown shock by disconnecting the top end and pushing it clear down and it still had twice as much travel as the distance between my axle and the rubber bumper thingy that it hits when it bottoms out so I didn't hit the limit of the shock travel to cause the damage.

It was just a defective shock. I got two new ones to replace both and just drove 875 miles on them in the last three days. They rode nice just like they should.

All alternate suppliers of shocks that have been recommended do not list any shock for my car and the RideTech shocks don't even have dust covers to keep the dirt off of the shaft. They appear to be made just for hot rods and street rods and other racing and performance vehicles, not the touring vehicles like mine is.

But, thanks for all of your responses and help anyway.

Mart · 06-22-2014, 03:59 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I'm not sure where anyone got the idea that my front spring was worn out or sagging. I had it made brand new by a local spring manufacturer when I restored the car in 2007 so it's only 7 years old.

Prof, with all due respect.

There are three things that would suggest this front end isn't as tip top as you are assuming.

1, The end of the spring shouldn't be bending up like that.
2, The bush in the end of the spring looks well worn.
3, The bush in the perch looks well worn too.

The parts may have been brand new only 7 years ago, but with the mileage you do, and taking into account your like for unpaved roads, these parts will take a pounding.

It may also be an issue associated with repro parts.

I'm not "calling" you on this, you asked why people might think your front end was sagging. It may be something you might like to schedule for some attention at a convenient point in time.

I'm glad you got the shocker sorted out and long may you continue with your tours and the excellent photo commentaries that we all enjoy so much.

Mart.

Old Henry · 06-22-2014, 11:23 AM

I see what you mean.

When I took my broken up original spring into the spring manufacturer he didn't have leaves as thin as mine so he put fewer but thicker ones in the same space to try to duplicate the original. I knew nothing of the Ford Barn, NOS, nor even Ebay back then so did the only thing I could think of. The spring has worked fine for me so far. The car drives straight down the road and doesn't stop and doesn't bottom out as long as the shocks are working. And it sits as level as my eye can tell in photos (the most important thing, of course

) so I'll just keep on keepin' on until it don't work no mo'.

Picture taken Friday.

Old Henry looks level enough to me. If someone got out their micrometer to measure they may find a fault but they would miss the main point of the image.

Pete · 06-22-2014, 02:14 PM

" so I'll just keep on keepin' on until it don't work no mo'."

You might consider what Mart said again. Both the upper and lower shackle bushings are extremely worn. If you let these go too long you will be looking at new spring perches and you don't want to go there.
They are expensive and if the old ones have to be machined out, that can get very expensive also.

While the spring has sagged a bit on the ends, it will probably be ok for quite awhile.

Old Henry · 06-22-2014, 05:58 PM

I had actually bought new upper shackle bolts and bushings to replace them but tried to remove them and could not get them out so I guess they stay. If they were really worn I'd think they would pop right out but they don't. I don't have all of those fancy presses and other gadgets that the rest of you have so am limited in my options. Those bolts and bushings have been in there for 234,000 miles so I'm expecting they will be good for a few more. The lower ones were new with the spring 7 years ago. I'll keep my eye on them.

Thanks for the suggestions.

P.S. Just curious. What do you see in the picture that suggests that the bushings are worn? I'm not seeing anything.

V8COOPMAN · 06-22-2014, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I had actually bought new upper shackle bolts and bushings to replace them but tried to remove them and could not get them out so I guess they stay. If they were really worn I'd think they would pop right out but they don't. I don't have all of those fancy presses and other gadgets that the rest of you have so am limited in my options. Those bolts and bushings have been in there for 234,000 miles so I'm expecting they will be good for a few more. The lower ones were new with the spring 7 years ago. I'll keep my eye on them.

Thanks for the suggestions.

P.S. Just curious. What do you see in the picture that suggests that the bushings are worn? I'm not seeing anything.

That spring appears rusted, heavily pitted and bent, as suggested by others. The shackle bolts are not centered in the hanger or in the spring eye, suggesting bushing failure. I'm still trying to figure-out this "restoration" you keep talking about. DD

Mart · 06-23-2014, 02:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Henry

What do you see in the picture that suggests that the bushings are worn? I'm not seeing anything.

Nothing more than the shackle nuts (hence centre) being well off-centre from the spring eye and the perch.

Changing perch bushes is a real swine. Some repro's are rubbish too, the od being too small to be a press fit in the spring or perch.

I think the spring bushes may be relatively simple to change on a 48. They are bushes rather than steel sleeved pins. I had a 46, but never changed the bushings. Only ever dealt with the more difficult steel sleeved pin/bush combo's used in the earlier jobs.

Mart.

Old Henry · 06-23-2014, 08:23 AM

I see what you mean about the shackle bolts being off center. Here's a better picture.

The off center spring bolt may well be an indication of wear of that bushing. But, when I last checked, the perch bolt was still tight (too tight to get out) of the upper hole that is not drilled in the middle of the perch. I guess I could check it by lifting the body up so the axle hangs and see if there's any movement of that upper bolt indicating wear. It's been a few years since I tried to replace that. I've never seen it move when I've lifted the body up and let the axle hang but maybe I wasn't looking closely enough. If it's truly worn loose in the hole it should be easy to change and I'll do that.

Old Henry · 06-23-2014, 12:11 PM

Now I see what you all have been talking about. Good eyes, guys.

That upper bushing really is worn out. In fact, there is a crack starting in the bottom of that perch underneath it so that bushing needs to be replaced and soon. Question is, how the heck do I get that thing out of there? As I said, I tried getting it out before with a lot of pounding and it didn't budge. What else?

bobH · 06-23-2014, 01:40 PM

Gads ! ... Look at the wear mark on the #3 leaf against #2 leaf. If I'm seeing this for what I think it is, this car has had some serious use.
Of course the bushing situation is bad too, as already noted. My passing comment... I gave up on factory, and repro parts here, many years ago. I went straight to the roddders - in particular the bushing parts made by Jim Gordon (Rosemead, ca, 626-288-2121) I've got his bushing kits in two cars, several years, no problems. (One of my cars is a 47, same as shown here.)
(Yes, I know, not original, but when installed, hard to see that it's not stock)

Old Henry · 06-23-2014, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobH

Gads ! ... Look at the wear mark on the #3 leaf against #2 leaf. If I'm seeing this for what I think it is, this car has had some serious use.

That same wear is at the end of each leaf.

Darn tootin' this car has had some serious use, 62,000 miles since that spring was put on new 7 years ago.

A lot of it to these places:

Transcontinental Railroad Grade in May 2014: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139471

City of Rocks, Idaho in April 2014:https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137684

Capitol Reef National Park in March 2014: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133018

Grouse Creek and the AAA garage in February 2014: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130966

Grand Canyon in January 2014: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128820

Moab, UT in December 2013: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127222

Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument November 2013: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123694

Across Nevada on US 50, "The Loneliest Road in the Country", October 2013: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120098

Mount Evans (the highest paved road in North America) August 2013: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115013

Canada in June 2013: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109872

Monument Valley in March 2013: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99523

Bryce Canyon in February 2013: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97822

Milford, Utah in December 2012: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93137

Nevada and Idaho in November 2012: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89080

Rocky Mountain National Park in September 2012: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83966

Yellowstone National Park in May 2012: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72864

Death Valley in February 2012: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62705

Pike's Peak in July 2011: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19141

Route 66 in April 2010: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57511

Old Henry · 06-23-2014, 03:36 PM

This thread continued here: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...d=1#post898947

DadsForty · 06-23-2014, 03:51 PM

I always enjoy your travel post Old Henry. I don't post often but read the Ford Barn every day. I think the concern is something failing at the least opportune time. I recently changed the shackles, etc.. on the 40 Ford. Was surprised at the wear in the bushing and the bolt. It was a pig of a job but easier to do in the garage than the desert. I am not fortunate to have a fancy shop but was able to do the job with lots of elbow grease and profanity.40 shackle bolt 1.jpg

06-08-2014, 05:52 PM	#1
Old Henry Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Orem, Utah Posts: 5,762	Where to get better shocks? I just put a pair of Monroe shocks on my 47 front end to replace previous ones that were leaking and not working and, within a month, the new Monroes are leaking. (Got them from NAPA) So, I'd like to get better ones if they're available. Any high quality tube shocks for 47 anyone? __________________ Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” *Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness

06-08-2014, 08:55 PM	#4
B-O-B Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ft Mohave,Az Posts: 1,987	Re: Where to get better shocks? Have you checked to make sure you have the correct shock for your car?

06-08-2014, 09:56 PM	#5
Teich Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Brandon Mb Canada Posts: 133	Re: Where to get better shocks? Go back for the warranty have same shocks on my 48 for 5 year now still good, Friday afternoon ones?? Laurie

06-08-2014, 10:31 PM	#7
TJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Napa,California Posts: 6,029	Re: Where to get better shocks? Measure the distance of the shock mounting points with weight on the suspension. Then measure the extended and collapsed length of the shocks you have. As an example if the collapsed length is 9 inches and the extended length is 15 inches then mid range is 12 inches. Your distance between shock mounting points should also be 12 inches which gives you 3 inches of travel in either direction. If the seals are leaking I suspect that the shocks you have may be too long in the collapsed position and are bottoming out and blowing the seals. You also need to make sure all your "bump stops" are in place as the also limits downward travel of the shocks.

06-08-2014, 10:40 PM	#8
B-O-B Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ft Mohave,Az Posts: 1,987	Re: Where to get better shocks? Go to Monroe shocks on line for your application. T J has it correct. I would not advise you to buy gas shocks either. Those are what tore the upper frame mount off my frame after I hit the raccoon & twisted the lower shock mount that I did not catch, also a very firm ride.

06-08-2014, 07:25 PM	#2
quickchange34 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: charlottesville, Va. Posts: 589	Re: Where to get better shocks? Cross your Monroe shock number to Koni. Try on line.

06-08-2014, 07:51 PM	#3
Kube Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wisconsin, USA Posts: 8,990	Re: Where to get better shocks? Bilstien's are with little doubt the best shock available. A bit pricey but in my opinion well worth the cost. I am certain your Monroe's are under warranty. I run them on not only our trucks but the sports cars as well. __________________ "I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you".

06-09-2014, 08:06 AM	#9
john in illinois Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Illinois Posts: 2,183	Re: Where to get better shocks? Non gas filled shocks are hard to find. Pete and Jakes make 2 sizes of non gas that are reasonably priced and work well. If you measure your static length ,one size might work. John

06-09-2014, 08:27 AM	#10
PeteVS Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: FP, NJ Posts: 2,770	Re: Where to get better shocks? I read somewhere that "over-using" shocks causes the oil inside to heat up. This destroys the rubber seals. Could be that your extensive trips on unimproved roads could be a part of your problem. __________________ Don't never get rid of nuthin!

06-09-2014, 08:31 AM	#11
woodiewagon46 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Long Island,NY Posts: 1,555	Re: Where to get better shocks? I have Bilstiens on my '46 and I would recommend them.

06-09-2014, 08:36 AM	#12
TJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Napa,California Posts: 6,029	Re: Where to get better shocks? There are different rates on gas shocks. Some give a stiffer ride than others. I 've actually had good luck with the cheaper Napa brand gas shocks.

06-09-2014, 09:04 AM	#14
DICK SPADARO Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Altamont, NY Posts: 1,004	Re: Where to get better shocks? Before you do anything you need to follow TJ's advise and determine the shock travel, if you have developed a leak in your shocks and they are almost new then you are topping or bottoming them out and rupturing the seal. You need to know the operating travel of the shocks, you just cant stick any old part on or the same issue may develop. __________________ dickspadaro.com

06-20-2014, 11:47 AM	#18
1oldtimer Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Orange County, Ca. Posts: 685	Re: Where to get better shocks? I know this is a few weeks old, but I have Monroe Matics on my '47 with no problems for a few years now. Since my car didn't have them originally I mounted the stud in the front as close to a '48 as I could, but I still measured for total compressed/open length. Which did coincide with the stock number for the front, the rear is an old bolt on kit. I had KYB Gas-a-just on the rear which are great shocks but were way too firm, so the boaty matics fit the bill. Last edited by 1oldtimer; 01-11-2015 at 10:53 PM.

06-20-2014, 11:16 PM	#19
A bones Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: CLAYTON DE Posts: 1,282	Re: Where to get better shocks? Can,t say what month, but read about a beam axle specific shock that is designed to tolerate the heat generated by our lack of travel length. I know this is a useless reference but hang on 'til tomorrow and I'll find a name.

06-21-2014, 03:22 AM	#20
47Merc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Australia Posts: 362	Re: Where to get better shocks? A little while ago in answer to a question about 47 shock mounts, you posted a picture of the shock absorbers on the front of your car at it showed that they are mounted at a fairly wide angle for front shocks which are usually mounted nearly vertical. Is it possible that the angle they are at is putting to much side loading on the shock absorber shafts as they are forced up and it is chewing the seals out.

06-21-2014, 03:26 PM	#22
A bones Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: CLAYTON DE Posts: 1,282	Re: Where to get better shocks? OKAY. I have a product name I just read of. RideTech at 812-481-4787 or www.ridetech.com They are straight axle specific, and come in two lengths. Oh yeah almost forgot the warranty is for 1,000,001 miles.

06-21-2014, 04:16 PM	#24
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,508	Re: Where to get better shocks? First, determine the dimensions as discussed above, this is critical. Then, you can buy shocks by the dimensions, If you tell some parts counter jockey what they fit they will automatically tell you their books do not go back that far. I suspect you may have some shocks bottoming out. I have run airplane shocks of lots of old Fords in years past with really hard use and not had any leak but always matched them up by measurement. Of course you go go back to the original type lever action shocks which work well. I can tell you that 46-8 Fords have a weak front spring and do require rearch or replacement often.

06-22-2014, 12:41 AM	#25
Old Henry Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Orem, Utah Posts: 5,762	Re: Where to get better shocks? I'm not sure where anyone got the idea that my front spring was worn out or sagging. I had it made brand new by a local spring manufacturer when I restored the car in 2007 so it's only 7 years old. My shock installation is totally stock original so nothing wrong or unusual about it. I know the aftermarket add on shock kits that attach the bottom end of the shock to the sway bar bracket instead of the end of the axle move more vertical than Ford's design but, if you look at any modern vehicles that have tube shocks (the rear axle of any pickup is easy to see), they are always at at least a 60° angle so that's not the problem. It was only the shock in my picture that sprung a leak but I replaced both. When I replaced those month old shocks last Wednesday with new ones I checked the travel on the blown shock by disconnecting the top end and pushing it clear down and it still had twice as much travel as the distance between my axle and the rubber bumper thingy that it hits when it bottoms out so I didn't hit the limit of the shock travel to cause the damage. It was just a defective shock. I got two new ones to replace both and just drove 875 miles on them in the last three days. They rode nice just like they should. All alternate suppliers of shocks that have been recommended do not list any shock for my car and the RideTech shocks don't even have dust covers to keep the dirt off of the shaft. They appear to be made just for hot rods and street rods and other racing and performance vehicles, not the touring vehicles like mine is. But, thanks for all of your responses and help anyway. __________________ Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness Last edited by Old Henry; 06-22-2014 at 12:52 AM.*

06-22-2014, 11:23 AM	#27
Old Henry Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Orem, Utah Posts: 5,762	Re: Where to get better shocks? I see what you mean. When I took my broken up original spring into the spring manufacturer he didn't have leaves as thin as mine so he put fewer but thicker ones in the same space to try to duplicate the original. I knew nothing of the Ford Barn, NOS, nor even Ebay back then so did the only thing I could think of. The spring has worked fine for me so far. The car drives straight down the road and doesn't stop and doesn't bottom out as long as the shocks are working. And it sits as level as my eye can tell in photos (the most important thing, of course ) so I'll just keep on keepin' on until it don't work no mo'. Picture taken Friday. Old Henry looks level enough to me. If someone got out their micrometer to measure they may find a fault but they would miss the main point of the image. __________________ Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness Last edited by Old Henry; 06-22-2014 at 11:37 AM.*

06-22-2014, 02:14 PM	#28
Pete Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wa. Posts: 5,407	Re: Where to get better shocks? " so I'll just keep on keepin' on until it don't work no mo'." You might consider what Mart said again. Both the upper and lower shackle bushings are extremely worn. If you let these go too long you will be looking at new spring perches and you don't want to go there. They are expensive and if the old ones have to be machined out, that can get very expensive also. While the spring has sagged a bit on the ends, it will probably be ok for quite awhile.

06-22-2014, 05:58 PM	#29
Old Henry Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Orem, Utah Posts: 5,762	Re: Where to get better shocks? I had actually bought new upper shackle bolts and bushings to replace them but tried to remove them and could not get them out so I guess they stay. If they were really worn I'd think they would pop right out but they don't. I don't have all of those fancy presses and other gadgets that the rest of you have so am limited in my options. Those bolts and bushings have been in there for 234,000 miles so I'm expecting they will be good for a few more. The lower ones were new with the spring 7 years ago. I'll keep my eye on them. Thanks for the suggestions. P.S. Just curious. What do you see in the picture that suggests that the bushings are worn? I'm not seeing anything. __________________ Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness Last edited by Old Henry; 06-22-2014 at 06:22 PM.*

06-23-2014, 08:23 AM	#32
Old Henry Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Orem, Utah Posts: 5,762	Re: Where to get better shocks? I see what you mean about the shackle bolts being off center. Here's a better picture. The off center spring bolt may well be an indication of wear of that bushing. But, when I last checked, the perch bolt was still tight (too tight to get out) of the upper hole that is not drilled in the middle of the perch. I guess I could check it by lifting the body up so the axle hangs and see if there's any movement of that upper bolt indicating wear. It's been a few years since I tried to replace that. I've never seen it move when I've lifted the body up and let the axle hang but maybe I wasn't looking closely enough. If it's truly worn loose in the hole it should be easy to change and I'll do that. __________________ Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness Last edited by Old Henry; 06-23-2014 at 11:20 PM.*

06-23-2014, 12:11 PM	#33
Old Henry Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Orem, Utah Posts: 5,762	Re: Where to get better shocks? Now I see what you all have been talking about. Good eyes, guys. That upper bushing really is worn out. In fact, there is a crack starting in the bottom of that perch underneath it so that bushing needs to be replaced and soon. Question is, how the heck do I get that thing out of there? As I said, I tried getting it out before with a lot of pounding and it didn't budge. What else? __________________ Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness Last edited by Old Henry; 06-23-2014 at 12:17 PM.*

06-23-2014, 01:40 PM	#34
bobH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: so cal, placerville, vegas Posts: 1,394	Re: Where to get better shocks? Gads ! ... Look at the wear mark on the #3 leaf against #2 leaf. If I'm seeing this for what I think it is, this car has had some serious use. Of course the bushing situation is bad too, as already noted. My passing comment... I gave up on factory, and repro parts here, many years ago. I went straight to the roddders - in particular the bushing parts made by Jim Gordon (Rosemead, ca, 626-288-2121) I've got his bushing kits in two cars, several years, no problems. (One of my cars is a 47, same as shown here.) (Yes, I know, not original, but when installed, hard to see that it's not stock)

06-23-2014, 03:36 PM	#36
Old Henry Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Orem, Utah Posts: 5,762	Re: Where to get better shocks? This thread continued here: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...d=1#post898947 __________________ Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” *Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness

06-23-2014, 03:51 PM	#37
DadsForty Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Central North Carolina Posts: 23	Re: Where to get better shocks? I always enjoy your travel post Old Henry. I don't post often but read the Ford Barn every day. I think the concern is something failing at the least opportune time. I recently changed the shackles, etc.. on the 40 Ford. Was surprised at the wear in the bushing and the bolt. It was a pig of a job but easier to do in the garage than the desert. I am not fortunate to have a fancy shop but was able to do the job with lots of elbow grease and profanity.40 shackle bolt 1.jpg