blasted bare frame

[oldredford]

I have a bare frame from blasting and I am trying to figure on which way to go either powder coat or paint POR 15. Can POR 15 be sprayed on the frame. Powder coat is probably the best way to go if cost isn't an issue. Some say you can only brush POR 15 and I don't care about brush coating a bare frame. You always leave a bare spot somewhere. Getting a complete coverage is difficult when you brush it on. Thanks....

[pat in Santa Cruz]

POR 15 works better if rust is present. It bonds to the iron oxide. A blasted bare metal frame is better off using paint or powder. It should be etched just prior to either one, unless you are using self etching primer.

[Kevin in NJ]

Do not etch if you are going to use an epoxy.

Make sure the frame is straight and if it is not use heat shrinking on the bottom side to help make it straight. It is ok to just bend it too.

Southern Polyurethane (SPI) has a black epoxy paint which comes up with a semi gloss finish. Probably not JS exact, but good enough. Normally you would not do epoxy for a top coat as it does not have UV resistance, but I am pretty sure the bottom of your car is not getting my sunshine.

Also a lot of guys have used Rustoluem semi gloss black. It has a nice finish, but you really need to let it get hard over a few weeks. I experimented with that for my frame. I got in some discussions about the SPI epoxy and decided to go that route.

I do not like POR15 for large important things like the frame. While it can stick great, the instructions are pretty clear it sticks best to rust and rust is not stuck well to the metal. POR15 works great till it fails and when it fails it likes to come off in a sheet. Some have had good things to say and others have found it to fail real bad. Few people have an inbetween comment. Plus it is messy to work. I have used the POR products in areas that are hard to get to and you can just pour it in and it seals the rust.

Epoxy to sandblasted metal makes for a very good adhesion, or so I am told.

There are many ways to get a good paint job. The key is to follow the directions of the paint products.

[fiddlybits]

POR-15 can be brushed, rolled or sprayed. The only difference is the efficiency of the coverage. I have done all three.

As previously mentioned, it is designed to go over non-flaking rust.

Over bare metal you MUST prep the bare metal with their METAL PREP. If you do not, it will not bond. (do not ask me why I know this but it has something to do with doing the same chassis twice because some dummy forgot to do the prep.)

Here is what I have found works the best/longest for chassis / undercarriage.

Bare metal media blast - mildly rough surface. (prefer media over tank for "grippy" surface)
POR-15 Degreaser wipe down
POR-15 Metal Prep
POR-15 I actually prefer the slower method using a 1 inch brush and do 3 coats. 1 pint per coat on average. I know I have good solid coverage because I do the first coat black, the second coat gray and the third coat black.

Then...

For show - High quality automotive primer+paint+clear coat.

For daily drivers - Ace Hardware Premium spray in color of choice, multiple coats. (generally $35 for a six pack will do it)


Although I love powder-coat... I have had absolutely no longevity on chassis/frame powder-coated parts. It never seems to seal the sharp edges and then rust starts popping the entire surface of power-coat off.

I also POR-15 most everything that is facing the ground....fenders, running boards, push rods, axles, propeller shafts, etc.

I have no connection with POR15 but it is one of the few products out there that I can truly recommend without hesitation.

[fiddlybits]

If you have bare metal blasted why not just prime and paint with quality automotive paints?

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Look at Marco's frame.

Which would you choose?

[Roadster62]

Originally Posted by fiddlybits

If you have bare metal blasted why not just prime and paint with quality automotive paints?

This worked on 4 Million + A's in the past. Bob

[Brother Hesekiel]

I would, respectfully, suggest, you paint your frame with either Hirschman or Eastwood fame paint. It will look right, because it will be right. There's no need trying to reinvent the wheel if you have access to one that's rolling perfectly. Unless your Model A will be living outside in snow and driven on salt-soaked roads, that freshly painted frame's finish will outlive you, even if you are still in your prime.

[J Franklin]

I painted my frame with rustoleum in 1965 and it is still black and holding on. It was gloss but now it looks just like what most feel is correct for frame paint.

[glenn in camino]

I used semigloss black rustoleum. looks great with the gloss dipped parts.

[Fred K-OR]

I went the cheap and simple way. I painted my huckster with just plain old Ford Tractor enamel. Looks great and has held up well. I did put an undercoat on and I think maybe a couple or so coats of black.

[spdway1]

Epoxy Primer and paint, that is what I do.