flathead metalurgy Q..

[hardtimes]

Anyone here know of a 'substance'/metal that can 'survive' when added to cast iron head combustion chamber ?

A long time ago, I faintly remember a thread where ...how to change / modify comb chamber shape for the goal of how to improve chamber shape. Can't locate such now.

[40cpe]

Seems like I've read that the "ol' timers" used brazing to modify the combustion chambers.

[mfagan]

Look into Eutectec cast iron spray.

[flatheadmurre]

Whatever way you go a good pre/post heating owen is needed.
I tigweld cast iron imho the best control of the weld.
Lots of new nice filler materials available including mig wire if you want to speed things up adding lots of material.

[51 MERC-CT]

Would like to have a nickel for every combustion chamber that was enthusiastically modified with great expectations over the years and never amounted to anything.

[hardtimes]

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Originally Posted by 40cpe

Seems like I've read that the "ol' timers" used brazing to modify the combustion chambers.

Hey 40cpe,
I read , heard and seen same thing where brazing was used on cast iron for 'repairs'.
However, I've also been told by ol timers.....that once you use brazing and/or silver for repairs, you can forget trying to repair that same cast iron ANY OTHER way, because you can never get all of the brazing removed from the repair area(s). And, just two days ago, I was told , by a cast iron repair company....that anything brazed/silvered repaired, would have to be 'cut out' completely , to try to replace with cast iron patching.
So, seems like that subject (proper repairing of cast iron) should be simple, but now I'm thinking that it is not only not simple, but that qualified/experienced expert repairman...is a rare bird, indeed !

That led to basis of my question, i.e.- is there anything that can be added to comb chamber (by layman) that would survive comb temps/conditions

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by mfagan

Look into Eutectec cast iron spray.

Hey marvin,
THANKS, I research that.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

Whatever way you go a good pre/post heating owen is needed.
I tigweld cast iron imho the best control of the weld.
Lots of new nice filler materials available including mig wire if you want to speed things up adding lots of material.

Well, I've read/heard lots, where topic was ...'how to weld cast iron without pre-heating. Hard for a neophyte to know what is best. But, to me is seems that pre-heating is logical way to go ?

Several ol timers on the HAMB have told me about 'Stitch n Lock' in Turlock, Ca. Studied their web and found that they have pre-heat furnace, etc. They were not encouraging , stating that heating something like a cast iron head involves such HIGH heat as to warp surfaces and at best, may need to have re-machined....if it is not ruined They reiterated that cast iron must be 'patched' with cast iron and that ANY other type previous repair(brass/Nichol, etc..my situation) will not be handled by them !

[Ol' Ron]

Yes, we preheated the heads and puddled in some brass rod into the transfer area. I had a set of thes heads, but never used them for some reason. Sold then at the York flea market. The heads were done at the Perless foundry in Bpt Ct. I think. I wish I had them back.

[flatheadmurre]

The problem with welding cast iron is that you get a zone next to the weld that easily crack from fast heating cooling.
Adding nickel in the welding material is one way to deal with that.
Next is that you want a machineable head and that will reduce you options fast since the hardspots wont mix well with cutting.
When you heat something up every built in tension release and may warp your head so surfacing probably has to be done.

[jimTN]

The old way was to put the head in a charcoal grill to heat it, then braze it.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Back in 54-55 I worked in old timers garage, had an old coal furnace, one of the guys was a stock car king, Ive watch him put the heads right on the hot coals, I don't know hot. then he would take 2 sticks brazz and melt it into the chambers then have the heads milled. He loved those 221 37 heads, he wound the hell out of those engines. Won a lot of races, the started running the Hudson 308. He had (Maine Hall of Fame), he died a few years ago at 85.. Walt

[42merc]

The roundy round cars cars of the '50s in our area required stock looking heads.
Bronze rod for filler, milled a bunch then domed & flycut.
Standard issue back then. Some were beautifully done & worked well.