Model A no spark

[Big hammer]

Until you fix the loss of power in the fuse holder your spinning your wheels. The starter mounted fuse holders are know for going bad. Replace it or bypass it, originally A’s didn’t have fuses. I would go to a automotive parts store and get a inline fuse holder and bypass the starter holder, that way if you have other issues you won’t burn your car up.

[nkaminar]

The Hammer is right. I had to clean the contacts in my fuse holder and bend the contacts for better contact. I changed over to a 30 amp circuit breaker that fits into the fuse holder. I carry extra fuses just in case the circuit breaker fails. I use some copper containing electrical grease for contacts such as in the fuse holder. That greatly reduces the chance of oxidation of the metals.

[Canton_Model_A's]

You could get one of these to replace that fuse holder:

https://www.amazon.com/JACAWEEN-Wate...aaebfdd1b40ce6

[1stWoody]

[QUOTE=Amctavish77;2300669]I have voltage on either side of the fuse with the key in the off position but lose voltage when the key is in the on position./QUOTE]

Try putting paper between points and test with ignition on and see if you have power. If your getting power at junction box then the fuse is good.

[Rob Doe]

Unless I'm confused: The comments don't make sense to me. With open/insulated points you should get 6+ volts at all test locations of the primary ig circuit this includes the points arm. Are you keeping track of the ignition switch status? It must be closed / 'on' , points open / insulated to have the correct readings.

With ig switch 'on' points closed, the input side, - coil post should be 6+volts. But the output side, + coil post, red wire should have zero or nearly zero voltage reading if a digital meter is used. The reading at the points arm should also be 0. If these two readings are still 6+ volts then the points are not fully closed or are contaminated at the contacts or there is a ground issue at the distributor or further on.

Placing a jumper across the terminal box posts will by pass a problem that exists between the passenger post, up to the ammeter and back to the driver side post if the problem is an 'open' in that portion of the ig circuit. If the problem is an unintended ground / short, the jumper will not work.

When you tested the voltage readings at the safety fuse and got zero with the ig switch 'on' and 6+ volts on both sides with it off, is this reading repeatable? We assume you are using a VOM placing the black lead on the fuse holder and the red lead on a good ground such as a clean head nut. If you put the leads on each end of the fuse holder, you might see a 0 volts or a small fraction to the right of the decimal. Analog meters won't show the fractions.

If your car is wired to Ford specs, the ig switch being on or off should not affect the voltage readings at the fuse holder.

If you car has a hot rod mod where the ig switch is wired in between the starter switch stud and the input side of the coil rather than between the coil primary winding output side and the distributor points as Ford intended, then your readings as written might indicate an intermittent grounding of the switch. This is a common issue. The zero readings at the sides of the safety switch would not allow 6+ volt readings further up the line. It seems they are intermittent???

A law of DC auto electrics is that "all voltage is consumed by the load/s of a completed circuit". The only loads between the - negative battery post and the output side of the starter switch safety fuse should be insignificant resistances at the connections. There are no meaningful loads, such as the primary ig coil windings ahead of the safety fuse. I'm using "Modern electron flow" in my analysis which states that current / electrons flow from the - post / anode to the + post / cathode.

[jg61hawk]

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The car won't start if you lose voltage on either side of the fuse holder....with the key on. So let's think about this....key off voltage ok...key on lose voltage...seems to be a direct short...but odd the fuse doesn't blow. I'm not an expert, but if you check this situation like three times and you are sure you are right...( I say this because sometimes we get false readings on our testing equipment) I would remove the chrome cover and look at that switch. In my my car I have simple retro fit key. In my case I would just bypass the switch by wiring both sides together. The story you told could have stressed any number of connections...but the loss of voltage is surely an issue.

[LuisUp]

Originally Posted by Ron McIntyre

My 28 A arrived yesterday and started to back off fine. An hour later no start only turn over.Tried the coil wire to head. No spark. Tried a known coil that is good. No spark. New wiring. NOS amp meter. Can anyone help ?

Your 28 A model won't start, with no spark even after trying a known good coil and new wiring; you're seeking help to identify and resolve the issue.

[Als48]

You probably have a very poor connection somewhere, probably the switch or a ground. Try bypassing the switch like someone suggested, with a jumper directly to the battery, or to a known good connection like the starter.