304 cu in conn rods and block clearance

[JWL]

Be assured of this---if you brought those parts to me for balancing, I would be more fussy and find something that needed work beyond what has already been done. And, if you took them from me to Roush-Yates engine shop they would find additional work needed. And if you went from Yates to ProMotors---- etc. etc.

Be sure to square the face of the rear main cap with the crankshaft by moving the crank forward and rearward and forward with the bolts only slightly more than finger tight. Then check the endplay after tightening with the crank being held in the forward position.

[tiquer]

Originally Posted by 4tford

Update on this 304. JWL, the shop I use here for balancing is one who specializes in high end motors, mostly racing engines. He is well qualified and a long time builder with all the proper equipment. Very fussy on his balancing. He is not the average shop. The Ross pistons required no work. The Scat rods, 7 have material removed on small end and 7 have material removed on large end. One of the 7 rods had minimal removed on large end. The crank had material removed on the smaller counter weights at both ends of crank. Appears to be size of 3/8" bit about 1/4" deep. Holes are at opposite ends of counter weights. On reflection, probably not a large amount of re-balance. Maybe he is more fussy than most.

On to the motor, The valves have all been lapped in and look great. 1.6" intake and stock on exhaust. Cam is installed and I am very happy with the way it turns. Crank is installed and again very happy. Installed the first time and rotated about 10 or 12 times. End float was just .001 Removed crank and checked bearings. Found two small shiny spots, one on front and one on center bearings, block side. Touched up block with light filing where shiny spot was and then touched up bearings with green scouring pad. Touched up the rear main bearing to increase end float. Cleaned everything, applied fresh Lucas assembly lube and re-installed crank. End float now .002. Rotated crank again and once more removed. No shiny spots so replaced crank and it is now torqued down and timing gear installed. Today I will work on pistons and rings and assemble on rods for install, I hope tomorrow.

Sorry bill but can I ask how far out the rods were from the lightest one??

[4tford]

Don't know rod weights Thanks JWL already did that.

[Mart]

I'm picking up lots of great little tips from this thread. Keep the info exchange going, fellas.

Thanks,

Mart.

[4tford]

The best tip I can give you is buy a copy of JWL's book. You will learn a lot more.

http://www.flatheadv8.org/jwl.htm

[GOSFAST]

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It isn't really necessary to chase down a couple grams difference between either the rods or the pistons. It's nice to have all perfect but it will NOT have any adverse effect on the build.

We get questioned about this often, in the larger picture of balancing the rotating ass'y it doesn't amount to anything that will pose any issue!

We do balancing every day, we have 2 balancers at my disposal, a Stewart-Warner and a newer CWT, and they get used daily!

The Scat rods I believe being used above here should weigh around 576 grams total. The large ends should be near 412 and the pin ends near 164. If there happens to be a couple grams variance in either the pistons or the rods it's probably best to live with it than try to correct it. It really will not matter!

(Add) In a week or two I will let everyone here know if the Eagle rods are an issue with fitting or not, Eagle is waiting on us for some feedback as I type. I expect a whole bunch of cranks and rods in Monday! I have 3 blocks here waiting for these strokers.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I've never had any issues with clearing the Scat rods in our builds with the 4.250" stroke. The bore size doesn't play into this area at all! The OEM rods have even less clearance issues, in other words, they fit better yet, AND they are lighter than the Scats, but they don't have the strength. Having said that in all my years of building these units even when "blown" I've never had a factory rod break. I do like the 2.000" rod journal on the aftermarket cranks though!

[4tford]

Well the crank and pistons are in and rotating very nice. I do not see any place where the rods and cam come close.

[HotRodmicky]

Originally Posted by 4tford

Well the crank and pistons are in and rotating very nice. I do not see any place where the rods and cam come close.

Yep.

You will have good running engine with that cam!