1936 ford brakes

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What is the best, easiest,cheapest way to go to change mechanical brakes to hydraulic please.
Laurie australia

[FatFndr]

Use '40-41 front spindles, 42-48 backing plates, wheel cylinders, etc. 37-39 drums if you want to keep the original '36 style wheels. A '39 peddle assembly.
Bob Drake is now making the '39 peddle assembly's. A '37-39 hand brake or an after market "cane" type.
The '39 peddle assembly will require the relocation of the battery on the '36 Fords which can be a good thing. If you are dealing with a coupe you can put the battery behind the seat, otherwise an Optima 6v can be mounted low on the right side of the engine.
There are people that make an adapter to mount a master cylinder to the stock '36 peddle assembly, however, the modification hangs down below the frame and in my opinion looks out of place.
The '39 peddle assembly bolts in with very little alteration to the frame, etc.
The advantage of using the '40-41 spindles is it eliminates the mounting knuckle for the mechanical brakes and eliminates using a spacer ring to mount the hydraulic brake backing plates.
You can keep your floor mounted hand brake if you like and use the frame cross shaft to adapt the hand brake cables too.
The '39-41 brakes have a fixed pivot that are hard to adjust to get the shoes properly centered. The 42-48 brakes don't have this problem. Adjusting the brakes only requires the turning of one adjuster.

Also, check the TECH Archives on the HAMB ( http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ ), they have a multitude of ideas.

good luck

[Old Col]

Hi Parso , thought an answer with a r/h/drive perspective might be handy for you.....change your front stubs for '37-'41 as mentioned ,they are a bolt up fit and have the added benefit of better placement for the kingpin thrust bearing , and any brake set from '39-'48 ( incl. 1/2 ton pickups) will work......the '39 and '40 have eccentric adjusters at the bottom anchor points and offer more precise adjustment than the later brakes, if you can do this job then you ought to be able to adjust the brakes without too much effort .....the rear backing plates will bolt up to your r/axle , but the orientation of the bolt holes puts the wheel cylinder not at the top, so it's best to weld the holes closed and re-drill them to square it all up. The '39 and '40 pedal set will fit without too much hassle, just a bit of "adjustment " to the larger hole already in the frame and a couple of holes to drill for the mounting points....worst thing is you need to pull the trans out to remove the '36 pedal assembly as it fits up from inside the rails close to the gearbox. The handbrake can be used with a custom made cable and some bracket fabrication to connect it up to the '39/'40 rear handbrake cable, or as mentioned you could use the '37/40 under dash pistol grip handbrake and the proper cable that comes with it to connect it to the back. Then it's simply a matter of mounting your flex hoses as per '39/40 and making up a set of fluid pipes with the correct flares for brake systems. It's not a small job , but it's well worth doing....hardest part will be tracking down the right components. Look around for someone hotrodding a '39 /40 and see if you can buy all their leftovers.....cheers, Col.

[hdleaksoil]

Would buy from speedway motors 39 linlcon brake kits Put the bendix on there the first time an save yourself all the trouble .

[Charlie Stephens]

Repost in the Early V8 Forum and you will get more responses. You posted in the Late V8 Forum. You should also add if your car is RHD.

Charlie Stephens

[Gddecolret]

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