At the end of the rope with my 46.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by bige386

I have a new modern coil coming in the mail. It should be here any day now. I'm thinking pretty seriously about buying a original coil for it. If I do this will I need to hook the Resister back up ? There are a couple of coils on e bay that I have my eye on.

If you want the original style coil you don't need to buy a used one and have it rebuilt. C&G sells new ones for $70.00 here: https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlv...tAddTpCart.y=8

That's what I bought years ago and have never had a bit of trouble. I doubt you could beat that price buying a used one then paying to have it rebuilt.

Mac's also sells new ones for $65.25 here: http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-fo...0HJVU11000005/

[bige386]

So what does skip charge to rebuild a coil. I though I had his price list but cant find it.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by bige386

So what does skip charge to rebuild a coil. I though I had his price list but cant find it.

His web site says $83.00: http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm

Even without adding the cost of buying a used one you're already over the cost of a new one.

Did you ever actually test the coil(s) you already have seperate from all other ignition components to see if it really has a problem? It's not really hard and may save you the time and money of getting yet another one. See my post # 33 for the test method.

[FlatheadTed]

A 6 volt coil doesn't need a resistor unless it driven by a 12 volt battery.
The Chassis parts cat is referring to a 12 volt system !! Which is the same as what I have said quote (driven by a 12 volt battery .= 12 volt system )The 12 volt system superseded the 6volt -4,1/2 volt system in about 49 I think for trucks .Both systems used a resistor of varying capacitance .I think we are saying the same thing .



Or, are you talking about some kind of 6 volt coil that is not the original style? I wouldn't know about those but the original style coil required a resistor.[/QUOTE]

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

The Chassis parts cat is referring to a 12 volt system !!

Only part number 51T 12260 for trucks is for 12 volt (the top line on the page). The other part number 59A 12260 does not refer to 12 volt but to passenger cars that were only 6 volt 46-48. Leave the resistor off of your 6 volt if you want to. Mine has had it on from the day we bought it 53 years ago just as shown in my picture (#37) and works fine.

[FlatheadTed]

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quote .The other part number 59A 12260 does not refer to 12 volt but to passenger cars that were only 6 volt 46-48.
Thats correct its a 6 volt battery/system , with a droping resistor that varies between
3. 1/2 to 6 volts depending on load ,

[FlatheadTed]

As far as I know The 12 volt system that came in for cars in the 50s became the std ,some had a visible resistor and some had it in the coil or resistant wiring ,with a by pass to full 12 volt through the ignition key .part of the idea of running a resistor was to give a hotter spark for starting also balance voltage fluctuations ,and to compensate for starter load ,Eg like running 12 volt through a 6 volt bulb it will be bright ! you can do this momentarily on a limited bases .With Fords 4.1/2. volt you get a shot of higher current eg full volts for starting until the resistor heats up then it drops . This is just my take on it .

[George/Maine]

Fords using a 6 volt battery, and Ford coils to around 1948 had a resister if its not round it needs a resister.
They are the only know user for one.
These kit doing away with 46-48 coils,are ok nothing wrong with them.
Once you have good spark it should start.Boiling gas is no good vaper lock.
In all the cars i,ve owned never had a coil go bad,
except a 46 ford and had a mexican coil changed it to another round and started better.Then sold it needed a engine was a 6 cylinder.

[engineman]

Also, make sure you have the correct polarity for the coil.
6 volt positive ground + from coil to distributor.
Don't give up you will get it.
Good luck

[bige386]

I got my new coil in the mail today and went over to the shop to install it. Put it in and made sure every thing was clean and tight. Started right up and ran good. It was 91 out today so I took it for a good long ride. Ran about 160/170 temp wise and put on about 25 miles. Got back to the shop pulled in and shut it off and let it sit for about 20 minutes the temp went up to 195 and again she would not start. Opened the hood check to see if the gas was boiling in the carb. Didn't appear to be I did notice tho that the gas in the line looked like it was back feeding to the tank. May I need to install a check valve. I turned on the electric fuel pump and watched the move back up the line and fill the filter and carb and it started back up. I got back in and drove it home which is about 1/5 mile down the road and when I got there and shut it down again it wouldn't start again until it cooled down. I tried the E/F pump didnt help this time. There for a minute I thought I had it figured out Next I'm going to try a inline check valve and a original coil I'm going to buy a new coil from where old Henry told me about and see if that helps.

[Old Henry]

When your engine won't start even with the electric fuel pump on do you check for spark? You really ought to isolate the problem before buying some more parts that you probably don't need. You should not need a check valve because your stock mechanical pump has one in it. Even if the fuel drained back that would be solved by turning on your electric fuel pump. So, when your engine won't start test components right then to find out which one is failing rather than just buying some more parts to throw at it. Test the coil that you have before buying any more coils. See my post # 33 for details about testing some of the components. I know how frustrating unknown problems can be but with methodical patience isolating each component and testing each component by itself you can find the problem and fix it.

I used to do what you seem to be doing - just replacing random parts hoping you'll accidently replace the broken one. Let me tell you the lesson I learned from that approach:

Several years ago I was coming back from a parade that I drove my car in and it died. No matter what I tried on the side of the road I could not get it started and had it towed home. For several weeks after that I tried everything I could think might be the problem and finally concluded that it just didn't have enough compression to run any more (it was 50 years old and had never been rebuilt). So, I concluded that was all that was left to fix it was rebuild it. I searched long and hard all over the country and finally found one of the best flathead rebuilders just 35 miles from me. I towed the car up to him and told him very plainly, "I don't want to rebuild this engine if it doesn't need it. Do everything you can just to get it started and running if you can before taking it out and tearing it apart." I thought I had his agreement on that and left. The next morning I called him to see how it was going. "We couldn't get it started so we've already taken it out and started rebuilding it." Well, after a couple of months it was finally done and I went to pick it up. It still wouldn't start!! And he didn't know why??? So, I towed it back home. As you know, when an engine is rebuilt they just take all the stuff off of it (distributor, coil, carburetor, water pumps, etc.) and set them asside and just put them back on when the engine is rebuilt without doing anything to them. And so it was with me. So, I got it home and then and only then did I decide to replace the condenser that I'd just replaced shortly before that fateful day coming home from the parade. It was about the only thing I hadn't checked because "it was just replaced." You can see where this is going - that was all that was wrong with my engine - a bad condenser!!?? I, of course, quickly learned everything there was to know about condensers including that the stock style condensers I'd been buying are made in Argentina and are mostly no good! I bought a $50.00 multimeter from Radio Shack to test all of the ones I had and they were all bad! I called C&G where I'd bought them and gave them what for about them and told them to buy a @#$% multimeter and check their @#$% condenser from now on before sending any more out. They did and I assume they do. Needless to say, I do not buy those stock style condensers any more but instead buy the U.S. made Echlins from N.A.P.A. and check them all with my multimeter before putting them in.

So, there you have it - because I did not check all components by themselves before giving up I spent $3,000 to fix a problem that did not get fixed that I could have fixed for $10. Live and learn. Isolate and check every component before replacing it.

[makemc]

when you say it will not start after driving, does it seem to be turning over as fast when its hot as it does when cold. my 48 f-1 was like that when i first got it, bought it from an old gent in kansas, it was completely original, other than a few parts that had been changed..anyway..would turn over fast and start right up cold...after driving for awhile it would turn over slow and not start..after trying other things, finally solved the problem..replaced all the battery and starter cables with the right size..no more problems..the small 12 volt cables just dont work on 6 volt systems

[George/Maine]

The next time you try and start it hot.
Remove your power wire to coil neg one with pos ground.
Now if you can get another wire
and run dirrect to battery neg. only when starting.
If you have a oil squirt gun with gas.
If you have to turn key on to start ,
make sure nothing is on like electric pump.
Hookup wire running direct to batt.
Squirt some gas in carb,push gas pedal down 1/4 way,
Now try and start.
It should start right up.

[G.M.]

386 don't fool around with the Argentina coil Henry mentioned. Skip has rebuilt hundreds of them that have the same problem you are experianceing. 18,000 old Ford owners have had Skip rebuild their coils and I'll bet you can't find ONE that has ever been charged to fix it if a problem occured. Also I never heard of one of his rebuilds not starting when hot. This is all in his coil design and the high quality materials used. G.M.

[bige386]

GM.... The only problem with this is I don't have an original coil to send him. There never was one on my car when I bought it. Is there anyone here that has a old coil they would be willing to part with. I hate to spend 40-50 bucks on a ebay coil and then spend another 85 buck to have it rebuilt. Also what year coil will work on my car. 40s to 50s ?

[Tinker]

Might want to email skip and see if he has one that he can rebuild and just charge you a core cost. Might be worth a shot anyway. Don't buy all those other coils, just invest in one good one.

Also do what Henry said and isolate the issue.

[G.M.]

email Skip [email protected] I know he has a few 46-48 cores that he would let you have at reasonable price. G.M.

[bige386]

I sent him a note and asked him if he might have a coil he would sell me. Now just a waiting game.
Thanks to everyone for all of the help.

[1931 flamingo]

In your first post on 7/4 you state you have a new coil.......................
Just curious as to why you haven't tried it??
Paul in CT

[makemc]

did you check your battery cables, if they are the new 12 volt small cables, they want carry enough amps to start when hot..you need the larger..no.2 at least size cables..both pos. and neg. and the cable from soln. to starter and a good ground cable from engine to frame and body..good grounding is a must on 6 volt sys.