The Ford Barn

BOSSY · 11-28-2016, 06:49 PM

I hope your engine rebuilder knows that you don't line up the crank mark with the cam mark? On a Y-block Ford motor these marks you have to count 12 chain links between these on timing chain. I had a 55 Ford 292 in a car I bought and the motor was rebuilt and it would not start. I checked the compresion and it only had about 30 lbs in every cylinder. I took the timing cover of and that is what was wrong, I counted 12 chain links and put it back together and it runs as new. LOL

packrat5 · 11-28-2016, 07:07 PM

All I can say is YIKES!!!!! By the way, the clip on the oil drive shaft goes on from underneath, NOT from the top!!!!!!

dmsfrr · 11-28-2016, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BOSSY

I hope your engine rebuilder knows that you don't line up the crank mark with the cam mark? On a Y-block Ford motor these marks you have to count 12 chain links between these on timing chain. ...

just FYI... the crank pulley was put together incorrectly and got fixed, see comment #10 on pg 1

Image of the correct crank and camshaft timing mark alignment,
from the Eaton Balancing website.
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/c...-block/page/2/

zuburg · 11-30-2016, 05:41 PM

How free moving should the oil pump shaft be? I wonder if I have installed it incorrectly? I have an oil primer tool, and when I turn the oil pump shaft by hand using this tool, it seems to me it has some resistance and is not as free moving as I expected.

I now realize I installed the oil shaft upside down. When I pushed the shaft up while fitting the oil pump, the clip was pushed down the shaft. I wonder if that clip is too tight causing some resistance.

If I remove the oil pump to correct this, can I remove the pump without removing the oil pan?

Y-Blockhead · 11-30-2016, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zuburg

Regarding the clip at the top of the shaft: I thought the instructions said to put the clip on the shaft, then feed it up through the top of the oil pump? The purpose of the clip was to prevent the shaft from coming out of the oil pump when removing the distributor. Is this wrong?

Quote:

Originally Posted by packrat5

All I can say is YIKES!!!!! By the way, the clip on the oil drive shaft goes on from underneath, NOT from the top!!!!!!

Oops, my bad. I was thinking of an FE. Yes, point up, clip down.

paul2748 · 11-30-2016, 08:53 PM

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You will have some resistance turning the oil pump, either by hand or with the engine as you are pumping oil. You will probably notice some mild resistance even if you are not pumping oil as you are turning the gears inside the pump.

You should be able to remove the pump without removing the pan. Make sure the crush seal that goes on the tube that goes into the oil pump is sufficiently tightened so you don't have an air leak preventing the oil from being sucked into the pump.

Quote:

Originally Posted by zuburg

How free moving should the oil pump shaft be? I wonder if I have installed it incorrectly? I have an oil primer tool, and when I turn the oil pump shaft by hand using this tool, it seems to me it has some resistance and is not as free moving as I expected.

I now realize I installed the oil shaft upside down. When I pushed the shaft up while fitting the oil pump, the clip was pushed down the shaft. I wonder if that clip is too tight causing some resistance.

If I remove the oil pump to correct this, can I remove the pump without removing the oil pan?

zuburg · 11-30-2016, 10:30 PM

Yes, I got that from the instructions, I just didn't realize which end was up. I now know the clip was positioned correctly if I put the pointy end up.

zuburg · 11-30-2016, 10:34 PM

I think I have another gasket for the oil pump so I think I will drop the oil pump if I can and flip the pump shaft around to make the distributor install easier.

zuburg · 12-08-2016, 06:25 PM

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I pulled the oil pump and flipped the pump shaft around the right way. Amazing how easy it is to get the distributor shaft to mate up with the pointy end up. I also moved the crank to about 6 degrees BTDC and after a few tries got the distributor fitted with the rotor lined up where it should be. I'm starting to get excited about possibly installing the engine soon. My Fordomatic is supposed to be done by next week if my guy doesn't put me off for a 4th time.

Maybe my Christmas present will be getting the engine physically back in the car?

dmsfrr · 12-08-2016, 07:50 PM

...

Quote:

Originally Posted by zuburg

Maybe my Christmas present will be getting the engine physically back in the car?

11-28-2016, 06:49 PM	#21
BOSSY Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: UXBRIDGE, MA. Posts: 316	Re: Having trouble aligning TDC with timing marks on 1956 Tbird I hope your engine rebuilder knows that you don't line up the crank mark with the cam mark? On a Y-block Ford motor these marks you have to count 12 chain links between these on timing chain. I had a 55 Ford 292 in a car I bought and the motor was rebuilt and it would not start. I checked the compresion and it only had about 30 lbs in every cylinder. I took the timing cover of and that is what was wrong, I counted 12 chain links and put it back together and it runs as new. LOL __________________ BOSSY

11-28-2016, 07:07 PM	#22
packrat5 BANNED Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 301	Re: Having trouble aligning TDC with timing marks on 1956 Tbird All I can say is YIKES!!!!! By the way, the clip on the oil drive shaft goes on from underneath, NOT from the top!!!!!!

11-30-2016, 05:41 PM	#24
zuburg Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 332	Re: Having trouble aligning TDC with timing marks on 1956 Tbird How free moving should the oil pump shaft be? I wonder if I have installed it incorrectly? I have an oil primer tool, and when I turn the oil pump shaft by hand using this tool, it seems to me it has some resistance and is not as free moving as I expected. I now realize I installed the oil shaft upside down. When I pushed the shaft up while fitting the oil pump, the clip was pushed down the shaft. I wonder if that clip is too tight causing some resistance. If I remove the oil pump to correct this, can I remove the pump without removing the oil pan?

11-30-2016, 10:30 PM	#27
zuburg Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 332	Re: Having trouble aligning TDC with timing marks on 1956 Tbird Yes, I got that from the instructions, I just didn't realize which end was up. I now know the clip was positioned correctly if I put the pointy end up.

11-30-2016, 10:34 PM	#28
zuburg Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 332	Re: Having trouble aligning TDC with timing marks on 1956 Tbird I think I have another gasket for the oil pump so I think I will drop the oil pump if I can and flip the pump shaft around to make the distributor install easier.

12-08-2016, 06:25 PM	#29
zuburg Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 332	Re: Having trouble aligning TDC with timing marks on 1956 Tbird Thanks to all for the suggestions. I pulled the oil pump and flipped the pump shaft around the right way. Amazing how easy it is to get the distributor shaft to mate up with the pointy end up. I also moved the crank to about 6 degrees BTDC and after a few tries got the distributor fitted with the rotor lined up where it should be. I'm starting to get excited about possibly installing the engine soon. My Fordomatic is supposed to be done by next week if my guy doesn't put me off for a 4th time. Maybe my Christmas present will be getting the engine physically back in the car?