Things to do with Engine Out

[sethkestenbaum]

What are some "while the engine is out you should ________________" items?

I'll be pulling the engine from my Model A over the next few weeks and assume it won't be going back into the car until well into this winter. Today I drained fluids and removed the lights/lightbar/hood/radiator/generator and a few other items.

[peters180a/170b]

I would see how the hood lines up and clearance between cowl front corners to top of frame. now is the time to see if any sag in the frame [ where motor mounts are].

[700rpm]

If you haven't recently done these things, now is a good time:
Install new pilot bearing
Install new clutch disc
Install new rear motor mount rubber
Check your trans gears and replace as needed
Repack your universal joint
Balance your pressure plate and flywheel together

If you're disassembling the engine but not doing a rebuild:
Check the rods and pistons and get them relatively within the same weights
Check your rod and main bearing clearances and adjust as needed
Inspect your cam and crank gears for wear and pits
Grind your valves and adjust clearances
Hot tank and magnaflux the head
Magnaflux the block if you're doing a complete tear-down

Disclaimer: this what I'd do as a shade-tree mechanic. The pros probably have different, additional, and better suggestions.

[Fred]

New bearings in Trans, Pressure Plate, Rebuild Dizzy, Carb, Sand blast both manifolds in & out, If original fan, ck.real close, buy a Round tube re-core from Bergs Radiator, install all new wires..Hot tank block & remove all rust..

[J Franklin]

I sometimes cringe when new bearings are prescribed out of hand over cleaning and inspecting/repacking old bearings. Most new bearings are from foreign sources and may not be even as good as the old bearings if they show no damage.

[700rpm]

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Fred, if he hot tanks the block he'll lose the babbitt. He could soak the water jackets in evaporust for a few hours and address the rust issues without harming the babbitt. But of course if he's doing a complete rebuild, that isn't an issue and the list of things to do gets much longer.

[Logan]

Check your throw out bearing. If you've never replaced it, and it seems to have slop in it, replace it. I had one that didn't make any noise. Then I put a new motor in, about 300 miles later it started rattling. Luckily (?) my motor didn't make it more than 600 miles so i got to pull the motor and replace the bearing while I did it.

[MikeK]

1) TAKE PICTURES ... of every little detail.

2) Practice saying "About $65" over and over again 'till you're saying it in your sleep. Then when the wife asks "How much did that project cost?" you won't slip up.

[jthomas6]

Originally Posted by MikeK

2) Practice saying "About $65" over and over again 'till you're saying it in your sleep. Then when the wife asks "How much did that project cost?" you won't slip up.

That's a good idea - I'll have to remember to try that!

[sethkestenbaum]

Thanks for the list(s). Please continue to contribute and I'd hate to put the engine back in only to cure myself for missing something.

I'm sending the engine out for a complete rebuild (I'm not going to try to tackle this one myself) but will probably bribe the rebuilder with doughnuts and coffee to let me come up and "assist" for a day or two.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Dial in the flywheel cover and flywheel.

[Ford1931]

The Mitchell company makes a seal that covers the transmission shifting rods that protrude through the bell housing. I think a lot of the oil that leaks from the back of the engine is from the transmission shift rods and not the rear main. This would be a good time to put one in.

[Fred]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

I sometimes cringe when new bearings are prescribed out of hand over cleaning and inspecting/repacking old bearings. Most new bearings are from foreign sources and may not be even as good as the old bearings if they show no damage.

See post #7

[J Franklin]

Fred any bearing can fail new or old, I was talking about the ones that can be cleaned and inspected for damage. I don't think most newer throwout bearings can be cleaned or re-greased. The one in my truck was able to be re- greased after cleaning although not able to be inspected closely.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Ford1931

The Mitchell company makes a seal that covers the transmission shifting rods that protrude through the bell housing. I think a lot of the oil that leaks from the back of the engine is from the transmission shift rods and not the rear main. This would be a good time to put one in.

When I bought my '30 Town Sedan I was told it "leaks a little oil from the rear main seal". He even gave me a "Rear Main Diaper Holder". and told me to put a Feminine Napkin in it and "Change it every month. Never got any oil on the "Napkin".

What turned out to be leaking was the FRONT seal and the oil return line.

[Hoogah]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

When I bought my '30 Town Sedan I was told it "leaks a little oil from the rear main seal". He even gave me a "Rear Main Diaper Holder". and told me to put a Feminine Napkin in it and "Change it every month. Never got any oil on the "Napkin".

OK, I'll bite (and risk being compared to the apprentice fetching the skyhook)....
What is this "rear main diaper holder", Y-Blockhead, some kind of home fabricated oil catching device? Or are you just having a loan of us?

[SeaSlugs]

its a legit thing, little metal tray that is held under the wishbone connection by the flywheel inspection cover bolts i believe and is literally a tray with a pad of some sort to catch and absorb the oil that may leak out.