discharge while running lights

[H. L. Chauvin]

Seems like about 7-10 amps -- also depends on candle power of your bulbs, & as mentioned above, halogens will draw more.

[Mitch//pa]

i never do any diagnosing or adjusting without using an external meter. i never trust any in dash guages on any car old or new.....plus u get an exact reading

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Mitch,

Peace of Mind:

Also not such a bad idea to buy two (2) "used" vintage torque wrenches from old time reputable manufacturers -- now & then one can try each on a nut to verify exact correct calibration of each -- have (2) that never changed over the years.

Maybe 75 years from now somebdy will send both of them off to be professionally calibrated only to find that both were far off the mark; however, with these two, never broke a stud or bolt & still maintain Peace of Mind!

[Mitch//pa]

H.L.

like never broke a head stud but the gasket kept leaking cause of inadequate torque....

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by todd3131

one question I have is what should the amp draw be for the stock headlight bulbs typically?

My car draws about 10 amps for the two headlamps and one taillight. I think I have the 32 c.p. bulbs.

[Patrick L.]

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Yep, about 10 amps for taillights and low beams [32cp] and about 12-13 amps for high beams [50cp]. I don't use the highs, I should change them to 32cp.

[todd3131]

10 amps it is now I have a guide

[jerry of whidbey]

ok how long is my battery going to last driving at night.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by jerry of whidbey

ok how long is my battery going to last driving at night.

An 80 amp hour battery with a 10 amp drain will be stone dead in 8 hours. Running a lead/acid battery down is really bad for the life of the battery.

[jerry of whidbey]

thanks tom

[Mad Mac]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

A true SHORT on an UN-FUSED system can destroy wiring & even cause FIRES!! Bill W.

Until recently I didn't have any fuses on my "A" but comments above like Bill's made me think I should get some, so I recently bought a 6-volt fuse set from a local Model A specialist. The instructions say it should be mounted on the starter motor and I intend to do it this weekend.

Has anyone got any advice for me when installing the fuses and later when/if one blows? Please bear in mind that I know absolutely nothing about electricity and have only very recently worked out what fuses actually do (I think) .

[Tom Wesenberg]

Most people only install the single fuse by the starter switch. Make sure the contacts on the fuse holder aren't loose. Many people tie a platic wire tie around the middle of the fuse, to make it easy to pull out when they park the car for the night.

Make sure you wire it so the heavy battery cable is still in it's original place, and not on the end of the fuse.
This has been done a few times, and no small glass fuse can handle starter current.

[Mike V. Florida]

Engine off blow the horn and tell us the reading. This will tell us if it's the light circuit or the amp meter is reading wrong.

I get 10 amps low beam engine off, but I don't know the candle power of my bulbs.

[todd3131]

I finally had time to dig into the lights last night and I was wrong when I said I had original harnesses in the light they are repos and thus my problem I think that the contacts are touching each other I think the only way that I can see is to replace them. These repos are from the mid 90's are any repos any good? If not does anyone know where I might find original ones or the parts? NOS ?
Todd3131

[Tom Wesenberg]

You can use a Dremel to grind the diameter of the contacts smaller.

[todd3131]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

You can use a Dremel to grind the diameter of the contacts smaller.

That's an idea I hadn't thought of
Todd

[700rpm]

After grinding them down wrap them in heat shrink to keep them from touching each other or the conduit.