The Ford Barn

54mainlinetim · 04-02-2012, 12:37 AM

I think your a idiot truthfully and give shitty advice in all your posts and spam the board with useless posts, and to get the story straight ive had 3 y-blocks so far 239,272,292 so i think i know my way around one pretty well just dont have all proper tools to do machine work and if you knew who i was from other forums and seen my build threads you would know i have the hood open on a number of different cars over the years,and to further note i "main line" my ol' lady all the time!!....Something a all american "BOY" knows nothing about! Go "EAD" have a nice day

LMAOROF!

all american boy · 04-02-2012, 01:02 AM

mainline

you hit the nail on the head!

by standing up to types like you

i want to prevent this forum from

turning into the forum you mentioned.

in fact, why don't you go over there

with your potty mouth and nonsense.

Have A Nice Day!

Y-Blockhead · 04-02-2012, 10:20 AM

Seriously?

rick55 · 04-02-2012, 08:29 PM

I have enjoyed this forum immensely, but I do not agree with insulting other members. I think "AAB" needs to take a step back before before putting pen to paper. This post seems to have got very personal very quickly. I agree that some of his posts seem a waste of effort and some of his advice has been dubious at best but this is why we have a forum. We all get the chance to give advice from our own experience. Some of us have been up to our elbows in these engines for longer than we care to admit. I am sure I don't have the most experience, but I have been working on these contraptions for 47 years, though I have only owned one since 1978. Before that I was a straight six owner.
There are people on this forum with all different levels of competence. I think this post needs closing down before it puts members against one another.
Regards

Frankenstein57 · 04-02-2012, 10:17 PM

I would agree, everyone should play nice. If you don't agree with someones advice or comments, just move on. Mark

ford1 · 04-02-2012, 10:35 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

ive been following the discussion on pressurizing the rocker shaft, what is being missed here is getting the oil to the shafts in the first place, the oil passage to rocker shaft is a very poorly designed system, the oil comes up thru the block to the head where it then makes a 90 degree turn for about an inch and a half between the head and block and then makes another 90 degree turn thru the head to the rocker shaft and arms, it is that inch and a half passage between the block and head where all the trouble starts, the oil is cooked and turns to carbon and plugs up, when that happens no oil to the rockers, no way to clean that passage with out pulling the head, that when they started running a copper line from an oil passage on the side of the block to to a hollow rocker stand bolt going thru the rocker cover to get oil to the rockers, ugly as hell but it worked

rick55 · 04-03-2012, 12:37 AM

Ford1 the problem was also with the first camshafts were cross drilled which when coupled with the old oils and the reluctance of people to change oil, the galleys sludged up. I have had no problems with galley ways in the same engine for twenty years, the secret is change the oil often and use the best you can afford.
Nowadays some cam bearings are grooved and all the cams are grooved (or at least all the ones I have seen) this makes sure there is adequate oil getting to the top. Ted Eaton recommends grooving the cente cam bearing post between the oil drillings which guarantees plenty of oil to the top, to the point where you may have to fit a restrictorin the galley.
Either way, itis not as much of a problem these days if you regularly maintain your engines.
Regards

LOWRIDER · 04-03-2012, 05:55 AM

My old man worked on yblocks at Ford dealers from day 1 when they came out. I heard all the stories about crossdrilled camshafts, warranty camshaft & lifter replacements, plugged oil passages, non detergent oils & aftermarket oilers. He even came up with a tool to clear that passage w/o pulling the heads.
The one thing I never heard him talk about was pressurized rocker shafts. I guess they were stuck putting things back together the way they came from the factory. I wish he was still around to ask him about it.
My rocker shafts are pressurized. My oil pressure runs 70psi cruising down the highway and a steady 40psi hot and at idle. The amount of oil draining back to the pan while its running far exceeds the amount with shafts that are not pressurized. IMO the "starving the timing chain & dist. gear" of oil is a myth. Ive run it this way for 3 years, had the engine apart a few times (camshaft changes) and have seen no lack of oil anywhere.

streetdreams · 04-03-2012, 07:02 AM

I am of the same opinion and have had the same teardown results as Lowrider. One thing being overlooked is oil throw off from the crank at the rod pins and counterweights. At any rpm, this is substantial, and more than enough to lube the distributor gear and timing set. In fact, probably too much, hence the constant issue of overloaded, leaking rear main seals. I have also read forum reports of observations on running engines of the lifter galley, investigating the need or not for lifter valley drain holes for additional cam/lifter lubrication. Based on the observations, none were needed, as there was an abundance oil oil throw off from the crank. This throw-off oil will serve to lube the distributor gears and timing set as well.
Lastly, in over 35 years of engine design, development and dynamometer testing, I never saw a situation where full pressure lubrication to moving parts was not an advantage, in lubrication as well as heat disapation, especially in a design like the Y-block rocker assembly. Time has proven it is doubtful those rockers saw enough lube from strickly oil " dripping out" the bottom of the shaft. I think Ford realized this and redesigned the FE rocker assemblies for full pressure lubrication, as well as a less tortured path for the oil to get there.
As stated earlier, one function of this forum is to present ideas, opinions and experiences. We are all free then to evaluate, investigate, modify and or use as we see fit. The above is how I see it.
Any Y-block I build or advise on follows the above ideas and modifications on oiling.

46yblock · 04-03-2012, 09:36 AM

On my last engine build I had the heads milled fairly heavily, .030 or so. That reduced the height of the horizontal oil passage in the head the same amount. Looking at the passage it was rough, and on one head very rough. So with a dremel the passage was deepened approx. the same amount as the heads were milled, and smoothed. Dont know if this helped but it seemed to make sense.

streetdreams · 04-03-2012, 12:05 PM

Makes sense to me Mike. I smooth that passage out, round the corner and deepen it a little as a matter of improvement on any Y-block heads I do.

GREENBIRD56 · 04-07-2012, 09:24 PM

I agree with what you did Mike - its on my list of things to do with a new engine build. That horizontal passage needs to work well.

I don't think that any of us use the kind of oil that made all of that sludge we find in our old engines and salvage parts - not any more. That pretty much eliminates the need for those dumb add-on oilers when building a new motor and running it on these higher detergent oils.

The deeper cam groove - the added oiling grooves at the rocker feed holes - those make good practical sense to me too.

LukeDahlinger · 04-08-2012, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 54mainlinetim

^^^^Hahaha! Thats some funny stuff right there ^^^^! Everytime I see a post from "All American boy" I think to my self not this guy again! LMAO

LOL! Not trying to stir the pot here, but maybe if "All American Boy" would write in a paragraph instead of composing his posts like lines of poetry, it'd be a little easier to understand. Then again maybe not.

paul2748 · 04-08-2012, 09:14 PM

These guys who you are insulting have contributed much on this and other forums and are respected car builders.. Your earlier postings have not impressed me very much as far as knowledge goes, and they way you post leaves a lot to be desired-hard to read. Reformat your computer so they can be read more easily.

Quote:

Originally Posted by all american boy

y blockhead

you're turn.

i tried everything in the book with that

'56 custom guy to get him to do one thing

that made sense.

i've learned my lesson.

something didn't add up right with that guy.

i'm getting that feeling about you there buddy.

Redondo Beach?

you could pass for wearing a pair a coveralls and

workboots with your toes sticking out the front

of one of them.

i don't how you've survived over there.

i don't care either.

Have A Nice Day!

Blackpearleb434 · 01-02-2014, 05:45 AM

Just my two cents worth...I did pressurise my rocker gear after my rebuild and ran into problems, however I used valves and spring from a Holden 308 ....bigger intake and exhaust, of course I machined the heads to have them fit and also used Teflon seals where the heads were also machined to have them fit ( so it wasn't a normal situation granted)...I did this modification after I broke some push rods thinking that I had a lack of oil (in fact it was a bad match with the push rod cup and rocker arm adjuster screw) after pressurising the rockers the engine began to use oil and spark plugs were wet, what I found was that the rocker box was being flooded with oil and the oil was being drawn through the valve guides, went back to overflow tube set up and all was goo. I will say that it is a must to groove the rocker shaft holes to get the oil into the rocker arm properly. I just thought after reading this post (which was very interesting) I would share my experience. Cheers

Ole Don · 01-02-2014, 09:53 AM

I too used a bunch of aftermarket parts. While turning over the engine by hand to time it before first start up, I had the right rocker cover off to watch when number one was closed. I noticed that at full open, the top cup of the aftermarket tubular pushrods looked like they could bind on the rocker. Off they all came. My pushrods had a little ridge around the top about 1/16 down from the top. I simply ground down the pushrods, then debured the inside of the cup. Been running those parts since 1999.

Blackpearleb434 · 01-03-2014, 05:57 AM

I ended up using a thicker solid aftermarket type with the ball and deeper cup not the one piece forged type, the valve springs I used were a bit heavier than standard... It was a real fluke as I broke number 4 exhaust and number 8 exhaust.... I thought somehow the valves clipped the block when it happened....(knowing full well I checked that before assembly) it was the simple fix as nothing go tangled up when they broke !

04-02-2012, 12:37 AM	#21
54mainlinetim Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 49	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube I think your a idiot truthfully and give shitty advice in all your posts and spam the board with useless posts, and to get the story straight ive had 3 y-blocks so far 239,272,292 so i think i know my way around one pretty well just dont have all proper tools to do machine work and if you knew who i was from other forums and seen my build threads you would know i have the hood open on a number of different cars over the years,and to further note i "main line" my ol' lady all the time!!....Something a all american "BOY" knows nothing about! Go "EAD" have a nice day LMAOROF! Last edited by 54mainlinetim; 04-02-2012 at 01:01 AM.

04-02-2012, 01:02 AM	#22
all american boy Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Podunk Junction, U.S.A. Posts: 622	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube mainline you hit the nail on the head! by standing up to types like you i want to prevent this forum from turning into the forum you mentioned. in fact, why don't you go over there with your potty mouth and nonsense. Have A Nice Day! __________________ 'Has racing made you a millionare?' 'Yes it has.Before I was a multi-millionaire.'-Quote

04-02-2012, 10:20 AM	#23
Y-Blockhead Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Redondo Beach, CA Posts: 5,848	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube Seriously?

04-02-2012, 10:17 PM	#25
Frankenstein57 Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Waukesha,Wisconsin Posts: 85	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube I would agree, everyone should play nice. If you don't agree with someones advice or comments, just move on. Mark

04-02-2012, 10:35 PM	#26
ford1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: oroville ca. Posts: 1,554	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) ive been following the discussion on pressurizing the rocker shaft, what is being missed here is getting the oil to the shafts in the first place, the oil passage to rocker shaft is a very poorly designed system, the oil comes up thru the block to the head where it then makes a 90 degree turn for about an inch and a half between the head and block and then makes another 90 degree turn thru the head to the rocker shaft and arms, it is that inch and a half passage between the block and head where all the trouble starts, the oil is cooked and turns to carbon and plugs up, when that happens no oil to the rockers, no way to clean that passage with out pulling the head, that when they started running a copper line from an oil passage on the side of the block to to a hollow rocker stand bolt going thru the rocker cover to get oil to the rockers, ugly as hell but it worked

04-03-2012, 05:55 AM	#28
LOWRIDER Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kingman Az. 86409 Posts: 419	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube My old man worked on yblocks at Ford dealers from day 1 when they came out. I heard all the stories about crossdrilled camshafts, warranty camshaft & lifter replacements, plugged oil passages, non detergent oils & aftermarket oilers. He even came up with a tool to clear that passage w/o pulling the heads. The one thing I never heard him talk about was pressurized rocker shafts. I guess they were stuck putting things back together the way they came from the factory. I wish he was still around to ask him about it. My rocker shafts are pressurized. My oil pressure runs 70psi cruising down the highway and a steady 40psi hot and at idle. The amount of oil draining back to the pan while its running far exceeds the amount with shafts that are not pressurized. IMO the "starving the timing chain & dist. gear" of oil is a myth. Ive run it this way for 3 years, had the engine apart a few times (camshaft changes) and have seen no lack of oil anywhere.

04-03-2012, 07:02 AM	#29
streetdreams Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Howell, Michigan, USA, The Peoples Slightly Overspent Demodependancy of Michigan Posts: 638	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube I am of the same opinion and have had the same teardown results as Lowrider. One thing being overlooked is oil throw off from the crank at the rod pins and counterweights. At any rpm, this is substantial, and more than enough to lube the distributor gear and timing set. In fact, probably too much, hence the constant issue of overloaded, leaking rear main seals. I have also read forum reports of observations on running engines of the lifter galley, investigating the need or not for lifter valley drain holes for additional cam/lifter lubrication. Based on the observations, none were needed, as there was an abundance oil oil throw off from the crank. This throw-off oil will serve to lube the distributor gears and timing set as well. Lastly, in over 35 years of engine design, development and dynamometer testing, I never saw a situation where full pressure lubrication to moving parts was not an advantage, in lubrication as well as heat disapation, especially in a design like the Y-block rocker assembly. Time has proven it is doubtful those rockers saw enough lube from strickly oil " dripping out" the bottom of the shaft. I think Ford realized this and redesigned the FE rocker assemblies for full pressure lubrication, as well as a less tortured path for the oil to get there. As stated earlier, one function of this forum is to present ideas, opinions and experiences. We are all free then to evaluate, investigate, modify and or use as we see fit. The above is how I see it. Any Y-block I build or advise on follows the above ideas and modifications on oiling.

04-03-2012, 09:36 AM	#30
46yblock Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: S. Oregon Posts: 304	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube On my last engine build I had the heads milled fairly heavily, .030 or so. That reduced the height of the horizontal oil passage in the head the same amount. Looking at the passage it was rough, and on one head very rough. So with a dremel the passage was deepened approx. the same amount as the heads were milled, and smoothed. Dont know if this helped but it seemed to make sense. __________________ Mike, S. Oregon 46 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Merc Meteor S33, '54 Ford 600 tractor, '64 Falcon Futura, 1960 Thunderbird

04-03-2012, 12:05 PM	#31
streetdreams Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Howell, Michigan, USA, The Peoples Slightly Overspent Demodependancy of Michigan Posts: 638	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube Makes sense to me Mike. I smooth that passage out, round the corner and deepen it a little as a matter of improvement on any Y-block heads I do.

04-07-2012, 09:24 PM	#32
GREENBIRD56 Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 55	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube I agree with what you did Mike - its on my list of things to do with a new engine build. That horizontal passage needs to work well. I don't think that any of us use the kind of oil that made all of that sludge we find in our old engines and salvage parts - not any more. That pretty much eliminates the need for those dumb add-on oilers when building a new motor and running it on these higher detergent oils. The deeper cam groove - the added oiling grooves at the rocker feed holes - those make good practical sense to me too.

01-02-2014, 05:45 AM	#35
Blackpearleb434 Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Belmont, Western Australia Posts: 71	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube Just my two cents worth...I did pressurise my rocker gear after my rebuild and ran into problems, however I used valves and spring from a Holden 308 ....bigger intake and exhaust, of course I machined the heads to have them fit and also used Teflon seals where the heads were also machined to have them fit ( so it wasn't a normal situation granted)...I did this modification after I broke some push rods thinking that I had a lack of oil (in fact it was a bad match with the push rod cup and rocker arm adjuster screw) after pressurising the rockers the engine began to use oil and spark plugs were wet, what I found was that the rocker box was being flooded with oil and the oil was being drawn through the valve guides, went back to overflow tube set up and all was goo. I will say that it is a must to groove the rocker shaft holes to get the oil into the rocker arm properly. I just thought after reading this post (which was very interesting) I would share my experience. Cheers

01-02-2014, 09:53 AM	#36
Ole Don Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St. Michael, Minnesota Posts: 1,713	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube I too used a bunch of aftermarket parts. While turning over the engine by hand to time it before first start up, I had the right rocker cover off to watch when number one was closed. I noticed that at full open, the top cup of the aftermarket tubular pushrods looked like they could bind on the rocker. Off they all came. My pushrods had a little ridge around the top about 1/16 down from the top. I simply ground down the pushrods, then debured the inside of the cup. Been running those parts since 1999.

01-03-2014, 05:57 AM	#37
Blackpearleb434 Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Belmont, Western Australia Posts: 71	Re: Y Block Rocker Shaft Overflow Tube I ended up using a thicker solid aftermarket type with the ball and deeper cup not the one piece forged type, the valve springs I used were a bit heavier than standard... It was a real fluke as I broke number 4 exhaust and number 8 exhaust.... I thought somehow the valves clipped the block when it happened....(knowing full well I checked that before assembly) it was the simple fix as nothing go tangled up when they broke !