New build (not fired), water in cylinder-head gasket backwards?

[rich b]

You could have whoever pressure checked your block do the same for that head.

[47topless]

Originally Posted by Willit Stop

Internal intake crack?

At this point, you need to recheck that block and the intake for cracks.
That seems to be the area many here, suspect as the source of your problem.
To address the sugestion from willitstop, do you have another intake that you could try?

[busmania]

I have a stock intake manifold I can trybut I’m failing to see how an intake manifold would cause water to leak into cylinder? There is no water in the intake…or is there?

[37 truck]

If the water moved to the other side of the engine when you swapped heads, it eliminates the block as the problem. Not an internal crack. It is a gasket or head problem. Since you swapped heads I suspect the head as the culprit. You might want to pressure test the head for a pinhole leak.

[busmania]

Thanks. I suspect gasket over a pinhole leak. A pinhole leak, I would think would not leak the amount of water that was in my cylinders in 3 seconds of cranking. I verified before I started cranking there was no water in the cylinder by blowing compressed air in to make sure nothing came spewing out. Do it would seem once things started moving because of the water pump, it pumped water into the cylinders.

[kurt v]

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did you buy those heads new or were they in some of your trading, if traded mabe why they got traded.

[busmania]

Heads are are new.

[busmania]

I’m thinking gaskets and hear me out. I’ll be trying graphtite (so long as valve clearances stay within reason) next.

When I removed the new copper gasket this time, it was sealed extremely well on almost the entire head because of the copper sealer. I had to really work to peel it off of the head. (The photos below are midway through getting it off). However, in these circled areas, I did not have to peel the gasket off, and it was already raised. Now, that could be because it is such a thin area. There was not a lot of sealant to hold it, but it is somewhat tough to see in the picture, but these areas are raised. However, you can see the copper sealant on the head so I don’t know if it was stuck down or not or if it got warped when I installed the head.

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[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by busmania

I’m thinking gaskets and hear me out. I’ll be trying graphtite (so long as valve clearances stay within reason) next.

When I removed the new copper gasket this time, it was sealed extremely well on almost the entire head because of the copper sealer. I had to really work to peel it off of the head. (The photos below are midway through getting it off). However, in these circled areas, I did not have to peel the gasket off, and it was already raised. Now, that could be because it is such a thin area. There was not a lot of sealant to hold it, but it is somewhat tough to see in the picture, but these areas are raised. However, you can see the copper sealant on the head so I don’t know if it was stuck down or not or if it got warped when I installed the head.

[Bored&Stroked]

If the heads are flat (as they are new - so they should be) - I've never had a gasket issue like you're seeing - with stock gaskets, copper gaskets, composite gaskets and MLS gaskets.

I would thoroughly inspect the head surfaces and also the head chambers. I wonder if you have a pin-hole leak in the casting? The fact that the problem "moved" is actually a very good thing - as it says the block is probably not an issue.

Even if your studs were leaking, they would not be leaking into the chambers - they'd be leaking out the tops of the studs/bolts.

I hate drama like this - every time you pull the heads, there goes another $150 of gaskets.

[busmania]

I also wonder… If it was the block, wouldn’t there also be coolant in my oil? I have yet to see any coolant in the oil. Just in the cylinders.

[Mart]

Do you have another pair of heads you could put on just as a test? I'd put another pair of heads on and re-use the gaskets.

Have the heads been hogged out to clear the valves? Could they have been over-done and gone through to water or a pinhole?

Maybe just try a different head on whichever side now has the problem. The problem switching sides with the heads means it is 99% probable a problem with one of the heads.

Mart.

[busmania]

Thanks Mart. I have some original heads I’ll clean up and try. The gaskets are beyond reusable. Lol. No mods were done to the heads.

Thanks bored and stroked. The gaskets have certainly added up in terms of cost but whatever I suppose. Gotta get it figured out.

[tubman]

The current cost of gaskets has a lot to do with why I don't use sealant when installing heads. I believe that if you concentrate on fit, flathess, and surface condition, you can get by with just a coating of grease (which will give you a second chance).

Also, since the leak seemed to move with the heads did it also move with cylinder position? (Second from the front on one side, second from the rear on the other?

[Ggmac]

Im curious as to what cylinders are blowing water also .

[busmania]

First time - water in #5 with no cranking (leaked in before I ever cranked it)

Second attempt - water in 1, 2, and 3. And a lot of water. I cranked engine over for about 3 seconds.

The only commonality at this point is the head. Unfortunately my machine shop h
Guy is out of town but I did call and they do have pressure testing equipment so I think the block was checked. He was very thorough.

[Seth Swoboda]

I'm not there, but I do not like these heads.

[Bored&Stroked]

Question: Whose heads are you running and when did you purchase them?

[busmania]

They are new edelbrock’s. Purchased probably 6-9 months ago from speedway. Probably got some bunk covid quality control eh?

I have looked these things over to death. I even heated areas with a small torch (very light heat) to see if any cracks would be exposed. Nothing looks off.

[Kurt in NJ]

Check both the block and the head with straight edge