Help with search for 36 pickup ig wiring

[Scott H in Wheaton]

I'm back working on my project after letting it sit most of this year.

I'm hooking up the Tyree wiring harness and starting to do the underdash part. I've done a few searches and looked at dozens of posts but have not been able to find what I need.

Mounting a repro stock fuse block with ignition resistor to the firewall, does the fuse go to the left side or the right side.

Then, which wires go on each side of the fuse and each side of the resistor.

Do the wires go over the top of the fuse block to connect, or do they come up from underneath?

Thanks for any help...I'm in the process of moving from Chicago to Indy and my books and diagrams are already at the new house!

[JSeery]

The only items fused on the early Fords are lighting related. A hot wire from the Starter Switch (battery side) connects to one side of the Fuse Holder (the non-fused side). The stud on the Fuse Holder is just used as a connection point. This wire should be a fairly heavy solid Yellow wire. It loops through the ammeter before it connects to the fuse panel stud. Also connected to this same stud is a Yellow wire with Black tracer marks that starts at the Cutout on the Generator. The third wire is a solid Black wire to the Cigar Lighter. And a fourth wire is also a Yellow wire with Black tracer that goes to the Ignition Switch.

The fused side has two wires, a Yellow with Red tracer that goes from the Fuse Panel to the Lighting Switch (at the base of the steering column) and a Black wire with Blue tracer that goes to the Dome Light Switch.

Back to the Ignition Switch, there is the Yellow/Black wire coming in from the Non-fused side of the Fuse Panel Fuse Holder and a Black wire with a Red trace returning from the Ignition Switch to the Ballast Resistor mounted on the Fuse Panel. And then a Black wire with a Green trace going to the Instrument Gauges (Oil Pressure side). The other side of the Ballast Resistor has a solid Red wire that goes to the Coil.

That's about it for the under dash wiring.

[Scott H in Wheaton]

Greatly helpful, thank you.
I've been looking at the same diagrams from Mac VanPelts site.

Since this is a truck and uses a foot starter switch, there is no solenoid, no dome light, no cigarette lighter. The basic wires should be the same or similar to car.

Which direction does the fuse block mount?

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Scott H in Wheaton

Greatly helpful, thank you.
I've been looking at the same diagrams from Mac VanPelts site.

Since this is a truck and uses a foot starter switch, there is no solenoid, no dome light, no cigarette lighter. The basic wires should be the same or similar to car.

Which direction does the fuse block mount?

I went back and corrected the starter switch. Might take a look at what I updated. I really have no idea on a 36 which way the fuse panel mounts, but on all of them (other years) I have seen the ballast resistor is to the left (drivers side) and the fuse holder is to the right (passenger side). Also not sure if the truck uses the same wiring harness with the unused function not connected or if it is a different harness.

If you look at the routing diagram you can see that the fused side stud of the fuse holder is at the far right (passenger side) of the fuse panel and the dome light is connected to it, as is the wire going to the light control switch. The left side of the fuse holder has the wire going to the cigar lighter and the wire coming in from the starter switch via the ammeter. Plus the two wires going to the cutout and the ignition switch.

The ballast resistor is drawn to show the two wires (from the ignition switch and to the oil gauge) are on the far left (drivers side) of the ballast resistor. And the single wire to the coil is shown to be on the right side of the ballast resistor. So this is reversed from what I drew up. If you are going for correct it would matter, if you are going for functional it doesn't matter. The ballast resistor works the same both ways. Same goes for the fuse holder. All that matters functional is that the grouping of the wires is correct.

[Scott H in Wheaton]

Again, thanks for the help!

Not going for show points, the truck is a Frankenstein with a 38 frame, 36 cab, 37 bed, and a 40 flathead... LOL.

But I'm keeping it 6v positive ground and cable brakes from the 38. If I ever get a chance to drive it I might then play around with swapping in a T5 and lowering the front and rear just a bit.

[JSeery]

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Originally Posted by Scott H in Wheaton

Again, thanks for the help!

Not going for show points, the truck is a Frankenstein with a 38 frame, 36 cab, 37 bed, and a 40 flathead... LOL.

Then just get the wires grouped together correctly and your good to go.

If you want any T5 help let me know!

[Scott H in Wheaton]

"If you want any T5 help let me know!"

I only have the trans so far...out of an S10
I want to rebuild it before installing it as I don't want to go to all the trouble of installing an unknown part.

Probably a year before I get to it, by the time I finish the move to Indy and get settled in to the new house and new work environment. In the meantime I can collect parts!

[JSeery]

First issue with the S10s is the gear ratios. If you are wanting the truck to drive like a truck, the originals gearing may work for you. But if you have any interest in performance the S10 gearing is sure not the best. So based on your objectives might consider a gear change as part of a rebuild.