Synchro trans for a 34 Ford?

[Menace Kustoms]

Well, I don't want the car down that long. Mechanical speaking, I'm pretty handy. Though I've never messed with these before, I built my first car, a 1970 Mustang, myself when I was 15. If I were to change styles of transmissions, it would need to look correct and require no permanent modifications.

[JSeery]

Then I think you best bet is to attempt it your self. Get VanPelt's book and look it over and see what is involved, then decide how long you think it will take you to rebuild one. Based on that rebuild yours or go for one to swap. Remember you are mostly going to be looking for a new set of guts if you are updating the synchros.

[Menace Kustoms]

So I just need to find a decent case to swap newer style guts into.

[JSeery]

I think you can swap them into your existing case, but I wouldn't get in a hurry buying anything until you totally understand what is involved, thru the reading.

[Menace Kustoms]

Oh, I'm not gonna jump on anything immediately. But I know myself, if I have to swap parts into the existing case, it'll end up taking forever to get it back together. It'd be easier to get it all nice and pretty and functional and just swap it in. My add kills me sometimes.

[Menace Kustoms]

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Spending the money isn't the issue at all. And I certainly want to do the RIGHT thing. I don't want to take any shortcuts believe me. I'll look and see if the case is original to the car, because I suppose that'll help me decide exactly what to do. But, the car isn't 100% original. Like I said, engine, brakes and electrical have been updated, but are stock appearing. But, I do see myself as a caretaker, and I will treat the car like it deserves to be treated.

[glennsanders]

Like john said,I love my new 3 speed .Its smooth ,no 2 gear pop outs.John did a great job.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by glennsanders

Like john said,I love my new 3 speed .Its smooth ,no 2 gear pop outs.John did a great job.

Glenn, the transmission in your '36 fordor really did shift nicely when I drove your car last year at the Gettysburg ENM. After driving your car, I knew I wanted to do the same gear change on my '35 coupes. What will really be interesting is to see how well the special forks for later gear sets, (that were special made for me), will work in a '35 slant back type shift top. At least two other sets of these prototype forks are in early pre '39 transmissions fitted with later gears and working well in cars that see at lot of mileage.

[choppedtudor]

Replace the syncromesh rings. Yes, later boxes are better but the 34 will do the job and it's a simple fix.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by choppedtudor

Replace the syncromesh rings. Yes, later boxes are better but the 34 will do the job and it's a simple fix.

You can't just replace synchronizer rings on the early (pre '39) transmission gear sets because they are not separate/loose parts. The synchronizer teeth are actually machined into other gears in the gear set.

[AnthonyG]

The '39 tranny and tower will fit in your car complete. You will need to use a '39 shifter as well. You might need to reform / bend the shifter for clearance & to get it close to the shape on your '34 shifter ( not hard) I used a conduit bender. The tower will sit approx 3/4" to an inch further forward so you will also have to cut a little bit of the trans floor cover in front of the tower. Once your floor mat is in place you will barely notice any difference. The car will shift much better and it's a more robust tranny which was made to handle more HP and shift smother. Still no syncro down shifting to 1st. But that didn't happen til I believe '54 or '55 and that tranny won't fit.

[dumb person]

Is the oil the correct weight? Just wondered if that might be causing symptoms and did not see any reference to it.

[Juergen]

Originally Posted by Menace Kustoms

How do I know which case I have? Can I take pictures and put them up here? What should I be looking for?

Look for the casting number at the bottom rear of the case. It will start with 18- (for a 32-34 style), 48- (for a 36 style) or 78- (for a 37 up style). I have found that some cases with a 78- prefix and a 48 cast in the inside will not take the 29 tooth cluster with ease.