Coolant Drain Pitcock Brokern Off

[G917t]

Hello,

One of the coolant pitcocks broke off underneath my 38' V8. The brass NPT treads are stuck in the hole and due to the position (over the front axel), its almost impossible to get in there with an easy out or other tool.

Anyone have any experience or recommendations for the situation? I am 100% ok plugging the hole with JB weld if that is an option.

Thank you,

Tom

[Jack E/NJ]

I just looked at my 38. Looks like a straight shot to me. An easyout on a socket extension should be fine for a brass fitting. Unless you're referring to the block drain behind the pump? Jack E/NJ

[JSeery]

Even sealing it you would have to get to it to clean it out and ready to except the sealant. Any way to loosen the motor mounts and gain some clearance?

[Jack E/NJ]

>>>Any way to loosen the motor mounts and gain some clearance?>>>


Yes without the bottom hoses at least. Can easily get a few more inches if the bolts are dropped. I never use petcocks on block drains anymore in tight places mainly because opening them isn't any easier or convenient than simply removing a nice square or hex brass pipe plug that won't break off. Jack E/NJ

[Mart]

I've never used an ez out, have only heard of people having problems when they break. I have had some success using a torx bit hammered into the piece to be removed. In my case it was a flywheel bolt.

Mart.

[richard crow]

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do not use an ez out when you turn it it expands the broke piece. take a bolt that is the same dia as the broken piece now grind a taper do four sides so the end of the bolt looks square. hammer it in the hole turn counter clock wise if you grind the bolt right the piece. will come out.

[19Fordy]

Richard has a great idea. E-Z Outs have a misleading name.

[woodiewagon46]

Richard has the right idea. If you have access to them a cutting tool for a lathe is better because they are harder. Taper it on all four sides and it works great. As he explained, the spiral type easy out will sometimes expand the broken part, making it harder to remove.

[Jack E/NJ]

Hammering a tapered anything into that broken brass piece might also tend to expand it. Maybe even more so. I'm not sure if there's enough room for hammering anyway in that location. Jack E/NJ

[G917t]

Thank you everyone for the input. I am not sure how much is left of the original threads because I cannot even see much into the hole. If the square bolt method doesn't work, I am going to try and plug it.

[philipswanson]

Use an EZ Out and hammer gently to start it. You don't want to hit it hard on a radiator. If necessary, pull the radiator for access.

[Anteek29]

My choice would be to pull the radiator...then you can see how to proceed without doing damage to the rad.

[19Fordy]

IDEA! Would it be possible to use the appropriate pipe tap and simply cut new threads into the broken off part remaining in the outlet?

[Mart]

The petcock is in the block, not the radiator. (Aint it?). The OP states "one of the petcocks".

[JSeery]

Might be easier to just drill the fitting out to the tap size hole for the pipe thread in the outlet. This will only leave the spring like thread remains of the brass fitting which are fairly easy to pull out. You can even drill it slightly oversize to help. I have used this method many times with success. If you can get a straight shot at it an extended length drill bit would work.

[JM 35 Sedan]

If you loosen or remove the front motor mount bolts to lift the front of the engine for more room to work on this, make sure you also loosen the the rear transmission bolts several turns, or you could break those feet on the rear trans bearing retainer/transmount.

I'm not a fan of using easyouts either. They can sometimes cause more problems than they can fix

[19Fordy]

I think JM and Mr. Seery hit a home run. Good advice.

[philipswanson]

I would use the Easy Out. They work like a champ. Never saw a petcock in a block. Putting more threads in the petcock isn't going to help because you need to turn it counterclockwise to remove it. Easy Outs are designed to be turned counter-clockwise. It should be easy to take it out this way provided you use the right size Easy Out and drill. I have removed hundreds of broken bolts with Easy Outs and some petcocks too. You must have direct access though.

[Jack E/NJ]

JM35>>If you loosen or remove the front motor mount bolts to lift the front of the engine for more room to work on this, make sure you also loosen the the rear transmission bolts several turns, or you could break those feet on the rear trans bearing retainer/transmount.>>>


Good advice. You can get at least a few more inches of clearance this way. I also agree with phillipswanson. The EZ out should be fine in the hole of what's left of the 1/4" brass pipe fitting.



Jack E/NJ

[JSeery]

Sure glad someone is having good luck with EZ outs, that has sure not been my experience.

[FlatheadTed]

Going by the 37 I have in the shop at the moment there is very little access, its right above the cross member to the rear about a 1" clearance you cannot get a straight line for a drill or ezey out ,on a hoist there's some access from the manifold side he might be able to dermal or cut the side with a filed down hack saw blade and collapse the remains of the brass thread or just use a self tapping bolt /screw with a rubber washer and maybe a smear of sealer or a heat proof one around the bolt until he can remove the motor ,

[VeryTangled]

Hi Everyone, I've also broken one of these petcocks. For the '37 block I did it to, they are a brass piece threaded into the block. So, note to all others, DO NOT TWIST HARD ON THESE. The brass can be broken way below the force of steel/iron, (IDK the right term).

My block was out of the car and I was taking the petcock out of the block not loosening it for draining. Doing this repair in the car will be a real beauty of a chore. I'm leaving my butcher work to fix later, the engine was all used up and a future job is to get it back to tip-top and this is a job I will have to tackle. I've got two cars with 21 studs and block-off plates and three engines, this worn-out one will become my spare (someday).

In addition to JM's advice on loosing the trans mount, I'd advise removing the fan because it will foul on the radiator at some point if you go the route of raising the engine.

Edit to add: JB Weld in this application is seriously a bad idea in my opinion.

[tubman]

"JSerry", I have never had any luck with "EasyOuts" either. "phillipswanson" must be one hell of a mechanic to have as much success with them as he says. I must be doing something wrong; Perhaps he can post a few tips on how to use them properly.

[tiger.1000]

Snap On make a good selection of straight fluted broken stud removers

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by tiger.1000

Snap On make a good selection of straight fluted broken stud removers

I have and use the straight fluted ones, they have always worked well for me.

[philipswanson]

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Originally Posted by tubman

"JSerry", I have never had any luck with "EasyOuts" either. "phillipswanson" must be one hell of a mechanic to have as much success with them as he says. I must be doing something wrong; Perhaps he can post a few tips on how to use them properly.

It's all about using the proper size drill and center punching the broken bolt and drilling to the proper depth. Never had an issue. I have also used the fluted type EZ out made by Craftsman. They work great too. Have no idea why others have trouble unless they are using the wrong size EZ out and/or the wrong size drill.

[Jack E/NJ]

philipswanson>>>It's all about using the proper size drill and center punching the broken bolt and drilling to the proper depth>>>


Agreed. Almost like using a tap. Sorta get a feel for when it's about to break by applying too much more torque. So time to back off, check things and then back in again. Maybe not check the same things as using an EZ out. But you get the idea if you actually use taps and EZ outs often enough. EZ outs do work. But sometimes not so quickly. 8^) Jack E/NJ

[Graham Freeman]

I tried an EZ out on a broken off petcock. As it goes in it expands and it cracked the surrounding material. Had to get it brazed up.
Could try using a short piece of ground down hacksaw blade if you have room to work with it and cut thru the threads on each side , should be able to flick the bits out then.
Although

[325w]

Maybe an ez out made for plumbing. Their a bunch different the ones for bolts.