36 transmission rebuild

[Macdozer]

While the engine is still out I want to check the transmission and replace bearings, seals, and gaskets. With the help of Mac VanPelts book I have the transmission disasembled and now inspecting the parts.

This is what I found on the main shaft where the 7118 bearing rides on.






What are my options? Does the mainshaft need to be replaced or can this be fix in any way?

[Karl Wolf]

Short answer, get another one...
I've got a spare one.

Contact: Karl

[Kurt in NJ]

In 36 there could be 6 spline, or 16 spline for the low-rev gear to slide on ---plus whatever was done for past repairs (the innards of most any 32-48 trans can be put into the case)

A repair could cost much more than a used--or even NOS shaft

[JM 35 Sedan]

I would not reuse a shaft with a bearing surface that looks like that. I have some good '36 gears, shafts, etc., that I have removed from transmissions that I converted to the later '39 to '48 gears. I am willing to sell any parts from those '36 gear sets. Send me a pm if interested.

[Macdozer]

I believe I have the 6 spline. 6 helical and 6 straight here is the whole shaft bearing still attached.



But sounds like I need to find another one.

[Charlie ny]

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Mac,
When we see that much wear...aka...lack of lubrication, be sure to
check the inside bearing diameters of the input shaft and the cluster all should be
1.125/1.129 with a smooooooooooooooootrh finish.
Charlie ny

[Talkwrench]

Mine was similar.. Replace.

[Mac VP]

I would also check into replacing your pilot bearing....it could be worn allowing the input shaft to move up and down, which would aggravate the alignment on the roller bearing.

[Macdozer]

Great info thanks for the replies I will sure to check the inside diameter of the input shaft and cluster.
I do plan on replacing all bearings.

I noticed a few places on the 7100 low/ reverse sliding gear , should I worry about these or will it be ok?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Macdozer

Great info thanks for the replies I will sure to check the inside diameter of the input shaft and cluster.
I do plan on replacing all bearings.

I noticed a few places on the 7100 low/ reverse sliding gear , should I worry about these or will it be ok?

Junk... most of these gears are readily available as NOS at a reasonable price. No way would I even entertain the idea of using this gear.

[Mac VP]

Those are badly galled spots that could further fracture. I would replace that gear. Same with the mainshaft.

[Macdozer]

I took the synchronizing clutch (old style with 6 balls and springs) apart to clean and inspect. Things looked good but now I am wondering about putting it back together.

Is there a special tool that I need?

[JM 35 Sedan]

I have used something as simple as a modern, screw adjustable, hose clamp to position over those balls and tighten down enough to push the balls in against the springs. The ring cannot be too tight or it will not slide as the assembly goes together. A ring compressor may also work well for this.

[Terry,OH]

If the brass rings in the synchronizer hub turn in the hub, then the hub is bad!

[John T]

I have a complete trans cheep that would save you some money. I live in Maryland trans expensive to ship. what state do you live in?

John Tutz
[email protected]
301-520-2000

[Macdozer]

What is the best way to remove and install the main shaft bearings, front and rear. Is a shop press needed or can it be done another way?

[Karl Wolf]

Originally Posted by Macdozer

What is the best way to remove and install the main shaft bearings, front and rear. Is a shop press needed or can it be done another way?

This press fit is such that it can be accomplished with a soft hammer-brass, or a brass drift... Use a loose vise, or a couple pieces of wood, to support the outside of the bearing. Drive the shaft out... DO NOT hit transmission parts with a steel hammer...

When installing, do not use force that translates that force through the ball bearings- you will dent them. They will not last. Use a piece of pipe that fits to contact the inner race. Drive on that.

I also grind the snap ring end so that if I can remove it -if there is a next time... If you don't know what I mean, you will when you remove your first snap ring from the main drive gear (Front input shaft).

Karl

[Macdozer]

should the second speed gear bushing be replaced during a rebuild? Mine doesn't look bad but wanted to ask.
Are there any measurements I can take to check for wear?

Part 7104 on the synchro assembly

[Kurt in NJ]

intermediate gear (from Ford repair book32-47
end play .004-.008
inside diameter -1.5575 to 1.5585


The insides of my 36 transmission looked similar to yours, i had a couple of 46 transmissions that I had hoarded when I had a 46---those insides I put in the 36 case to get the better syncro assembly---the free floating blocker rings work much better than the ones that are part of the sleeve

[Macdozer]

Thanks for all the good info, it really helps.

I am trying to figure out how to replace the throw out bearing, I have a new bearing but want to make sure I take it apart correctly, don't want to break anything I want to get the old bearing off and install the new one.