The Ford Barn

BashawT · 11-01-2012, 10:46 PM

I know this is a pretty big job but I am just wondering if anyone has any pictures of the process? Is this a job a guy with decent welding skill and mechanical skill can perform? I need to replace the subrail from the back of the doors back and also the inner well patches. Just looking for some tips and procedures. Im assuming the quarters need to be removed.

Just trying to gain knowledge before attempting anything.

Thanks everyone!

SSsssteamer · 11-02-2012, 12:14 AM

Rivting skills are a must. On our 1930 Phaeton, the sub frame was replaced. By the time that I was done, I was a qualified riviter. The first 10 rivits I made a mess out of because I had too high of air pressure on my "Harbor Freight" rivit gun.

unclerichard · 11-02-2012, 05:04 AM

I put new subrails in my coupe. The hardest part I think was making sure the new rails go EXACTLY where the old ones were. The cross channels come uncut, so do some measuring before you remove the old ones. It sure restores that bottom to super solid where you are done. My car was chanelled, and with the new subrails and floors I "unchanelled" it and restored to Henry's specs.

TD · 11-02-2012, 09:50 AM

It's necessary to have a riveting "buddy" and good clamps. Order extra rivets and practice two or three times on "junk" metal first. It's all about the heat and a good buck'n block as well as a good gun. Not for the faint of heart.
TD

partridgekelley · 11-02-2012, 11:12 AM

Take lots of pictures and measurements , even clamp in some bracing so things don't move when the old one is taken out. DO get in some practice on the rivit gun. There are some books that have the original dimensions = get all the info you can before starting. Good luck, Gary

BashawT · 11-03-2012, 03:56 PM

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So basically the first step to replacing the subrails and rear floor pan means removing the roof, quarters and rear body section to get access to everything? So far I've read that all of the panels are riveted together? Is that correct?

My plan is to gain knowledge of this repair over the winter so when spring rolls around I have somewhat of a clue to what I'm trying to accomplish.

Thank you to anyone that fills me with their knowledge!

ericr · 11-03-2012, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BashawT

So basically the first step to replacing the subrails and rear floor pan means removing the roof, quarters and rear body section to get access to everything? So far I've read that all of the panels are riveted together? Is that correct?

My plan is to gain knowledge of this repair over the winter so when spring rolls around I have somewhat of a clue to what I'm trying to accomplish.

Thank you to anyone that fills me with their knowledge!

Have you looked at Vince's "Ford Garage" site showing how he did it?

BashawT · 11-03-2012, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordgarage

You don't say what kind of body style you are working with, but the attached link is typical for most 1930-31 non wood body cars.

Model A Coupe Body Assembly on Ford Garage

My apologies. Its a 31' Tudor

11-01-2012, 10:46 PM	#1
BashawT Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: De Pere, WI Posts: 290	Replacing Subrails I know this is a pretty big job but I am just wondering if anyone has any pictures of the process? Is this a job a guy with decent welding skill and mechanical skill can perform? I need to replace the subrail from the back of the doors back and also the inner well patches. Just looking for some tips and procedures. Im assuming the quarters need to be removed. Just trying to gain knowledge before attempting anything. Thanks everyone!

11-02-2012, 12:14 AM	#2
SSsssteamer Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Sedro-Woolley, WA Posts: 1,023	Re: Replacing Subrails Rivting skills are a must. On our 1930 Phaeton, the sub frame was replaced. By the time that I was done, I was a qualified riviter. The first 10 rivits I made a mess out of because I had too high of air pressure on my "Harbor Freight" rivit gun.

11-02-2012, 05:04 AM	#3
unclerichard Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mid Michigan Posts: 37	Re: Replacing Subrails I put new subrails in my coupe. The hardest part I think was making sure the new rails go EXACTLY where the old ones were. The cross channels come uncut, so do some measuring before you remove the old ones. It sure restores that bottom to super solid where you are done. My car was chanelled, and with the new subrails and floors I "unchanelled" it and restored to Henry's specs.

11-02-2012, 09:50 AM	#4
TD Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: shelby, nc Posts: 201	Re: Replacing Subrails It's necessary to have a riveting "buddy" and good clamps. Order extra rivets and practice two or three times on "junk" metal first. It's all about the heat and a good buck'n block as well as a good gun. Not for the faint of heart. TD

11-02-2012, 11:12 AM	#5
partridgekelley Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fort Bragg,Ca. Posts: 362	Re: Replacing Subrails Take lots of pictures and measurements , even clamp in some bracing so things don't move when the old one is taken out. DO get in some practice on the rivit gun. There are some books that have the original dimensions = get all the info you can before starting. Good luck, Gary

11-03-2012, 03:56 PM	#6
BashawT Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: De Pere, WI Posts: 290	Re: Replacing Subrails Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) So basically the first step to replacing the subrails and rear floor pan means removing the roof, quarters and rear body section to get access to everything? So far I've read that all of the panels are riveted together? Is that correct? My plan is to gain knowledge of this repair over the winter so when spring rolls around I have somewhat of a clue to what I'm trying to accomplish. Thank you to anyone that fills me with their knowledge!