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07-15-2014, 04:08 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,542
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"raven" finish equals rust finish
this is prompted by a recent post wherein it is mentioned that the horn flange bolts were originally raven finish.
every single raven finish item I ever bought is now covered with a protective layer of rust.... |
07-15-2014, 04:23 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Putnam Valley N.Y.
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Re: "raven" finish equals rust finish
it all depends on the person or company that does the plating. I used Danbury Plating in Conn. ,,They do industrial plating /finish. The key is when using original BOLTS and NUTS ["NOT" LOCK WASHERS] is to prep the parts first. i first start to soak them in gas and degrease them, then I wire brush them, put them into metal prep for a few hours and then wire brush them again until the gold [rust] finish is gone. I wire brush the lock washers only..... and then off to Danbury Metal finishers. Google it on your computer and look for a plater near you.I top them off with Astro dope.[a good hobby shop sells it]My bolts are going on 7 years +.
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07-15-2014, 06:14 PM | #3 | |
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Re: "raven" finish equals rust finish
Quote:
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07-15-2014, 06:18 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kenosha, WI
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Re: "raven" finish equals rust finish
Hi,
Are there any do it your self raven plating kits available. Also has anyone tried the kit? Jim |
07-15-2014, 06:28 PM | #5 | |
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Re: "raven" finish equals rust finish
Quote:
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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07-15-2014, 06:48 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakeville, MN
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Re: "raven" finish equals rust finish
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I purchase a quart of Parkerizing concentrated solution on eBay a couple years ago. I did two or three batches. I was disappointed in that some of the Parkerized bolts and nuts rusted after not too long of time. The material is manganese phosphate I think. The link below is the stuff I bought and used. Rusty Nelson http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parkerizing-...0cb3c9&vxp=mtr |
07-15-2014, 07:21 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ridgefield, Ct
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Re: "raven" finish equals rust finish
I've got a box of original from the 1930's horn bolts, they still look as good as when they were first plated. I've often wondered what type of bidding war "Fine Point" people would get into on "That Auction Site" if I listed one horns worth? Bob
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They don't have to run to be enjoyed. I'm here to enjoy the hobby, and enjoy the cars no matter what they look like. Most of the worlds problems are electrical. |
07-15-2014, 08:07 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Phoenix, Oregon
Posts: 661
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Re: "raven" finish equals rust finish
This has been discussed before. As an antique phonograph collector we simulate that finish by dropping red hat bolts in dirty, very dirty crankcase oil.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19833
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07-15-2014, 08:12 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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Re: "raven" finish equals rust finish
My stuff ain't for national judging, semi gloss black works for me.
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07-15-2014, 08:25 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Re: "raven" finish equals rust finish
I like G-96 gun blueing, then rub it with ATF. Did my gun a year ago and still looks the same as the day I blued it. I've also done a few small car parts. Even with a clear coat, I'd rub the part with an oily rag to help keep rust away.
Don't waste your money on Birchwood Casey blueing. |
07-16-2014, 03:19 AM | #11 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 1,175
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Re: "raven" finish equals rust finish
Tom beat me to it. After the parts are blackened/blued, they need to be heated and then placed in oil/ATF. Not heated to anywhere near red, but about 100C/212F is enough. This will open the pores slightly and allow the oil in. When I was an electroplater, we would heat blackened parts up to around that temp in the oil, so the oil was at the same temp.
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