Recover '40 Sedan Running Boards

[mike42]

I'm thinking about recovering my '40 Sedan running boards with Drake Covers. Anyone have experience with his product here and how much of a pain in the butt is it to recover the boards ?

Lastly.....take the boards off or just recover while on the car ?

Thx......Mike

[325w]

Did a 36. They must be off the car. All in all not a bad job.

[BABAR40]

Your boards and the contact surface of the covers must be absolutely clean. I roughed up the covers with sandpaper and a coarse pad on a die grinder, not enough to eat it up but break the mold "finish" on it. The contact cement doesn't like bondo, so if you have leveled your boards out, make sure you are using the minimum amount of bondo to fill. Don't just slap on a load of it. When you are ready to glue it, do a trial fit to see how well the cover goes on and if there are any problem ares that need to be reworked. The boards will not cover flaws in the board surfaces. I am sure the Barner brigade will chime in as there are different preferences in adhesives and preparation. Go slow and good luck!

[Uncle Bob]

Just did the ones on my '39 sedan a month ago, not a bad job if you approach it with patience.

To add to the above; the comment about filler is a result of the boards having two dips where the under brackets are that will "print through" if you don't fill them. The instructions with the covers will explain. Also the instructions say to apply the adhesive in successive strips lengthwise starting at the front/outer edge, good advice. It helps to have a long working surface at a good height for comfort. I would add, prefit them without adhesive/contact cement first to check fit and help you to visualize how you will make sure you've got good alignment. Doing the application in strips and going at a careful pace can make the job take a better part of a day, but the end result will look good. Also, depending on how rusted your existing bolts are it may be worth it to get a new set of mounting bolts. If they're rusted the square part of the shank will likely round off, so getting a new set ahead of time will save effort later.

As an aside, I painted my boards with epoxy primer to prevent future rust potential, so that would deal with any adhesion to bondo issues as well.

[slowforty]

Also you need
No1. three friends
No2. a bunch of large clamps
No3. Refreshments for the helpers
Also dont be stingy with the glue {Weldwood Contact Cement]

[Russ/40]

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Barbar's pretty much nailed it, especially his comment regarding the covers not hiding flaws. The covers look very nice when done well and can rival more expensive vulcanized ones, but, the boards themselves need to be perfect or they will show through. Bondo is ok if you seal it well first. I used POR15 over my boards after body work, and I get a lot of compliments on my boards, even after many years of service.

[Old Ford Addict]

Remove from car
Strip rubber
Sandblast (if any rust whatsoever)
Fill low spots
Epoxy prime
Dry fit covers
Recover … works best w two people

[Uncle Bob]

I forgot to mention above that another useful tool is a roller/brayer, about 4" wide would be good. Will help in rolling out any bubbles and making sure that contact cement surfaces come in full/firm contact.

[mike42]

Geez Guys......that's great info ! My boards are in great shape as they were replaced new 20 years ago and car was not run much at all. I will them take off and prime as noted first. Funny thing when looking at them underneath this morning. It says made in Argentina !!!

Thx all.....Mike

[39 STD]

When I did mine. Believe it or not, I found that the spring type clothes pins worked along the outer bottom lip, to help bond the edge.

[cmbrucew]

Uncle Bob
You got a better fit on your boards than I did.
I had to stretch mine, and as a result. got a small split.
I used heavy duty Pony clamps like the fumigator companies use.
Bruce

[Ken/Alabama]

When I did mine 25 yrs ago I used 3M Spray Adhesive. Worked very well and they still look new. Like has been said here already, make sure they are clean before you start and test fit the new covers.

[Old Ford Addict]

If you all are doing this correctly you don’t use clamps
Contact cement is meant to be applied to both surfaces and left to dry
Then and only then do you put the cover on the board

This is the same as 3M weather strip adhesive …. If you read the tube

[mike42]

Guys......no one mentions who's product you used. Drake's ?

[Uncle Bob]

Yes, Drakes covers. I did my '40 coupe almost 20 years ago and they worked about the same. On both when I did the dry fit one (I forget which side) was just slightly oversize. With the Argentinian boards who knows, definitely pre-fit.

[cmbrucew]

mike42
Drake's
Bruce

[mike42]

Thank you !

[john worden]

Recent Drake covers on Drakes boards.

[mike42]

john that looks nice !

Thx

[wspiker]

Hi, I purchased the Drake running boards, from Drake, that were classified as 'Blems' for $500. When they were received the blemishes were marked. Trust me, most folks would not notice; they look great! I see in the catalog that the covers are listed at $235. I recommend you save yourself all the work and hassle and the worry of whether they will look good when you are done buy purchasing the 'Blems', if available..............