Converting Model A to key starting

[Dave in Denver]

I am thinking of converting my '31 closed cab truck with a Riley ohv banger engine from foot starting to key starting using a selonoid. The truck is wired for 12 volts today. I have heard of this but am not sure how to wire it up and what part I may need to make it work. Might any one be able provide me some advice or recommendations? Thanks.

[BCCHOPIT]

I am thinking of doing the same thing.
I was going to use a 37-48 starter solenoid and
just wire it like a V8 using the old key and push bottom
Start from the old V8 under the dash.

[Kurt in NJ]

I have a starter on my Smiths compresser that was converted for "key" start by removing the original starter switch and soldering a short wire to the starter contact that has an eyelet terminal to a later solenoid -the solenoid was then screwed to the starter, the original battery wire would fit-the nice kind with a little button to operate it without power to make working under the hood easy ---or the threaded stud for a V8 starter could be installed

[Jordan]

I'm pretty sure the parts suppliers sell a kit for this. not certain, but would look there first.

[mrtexas]

I've done it. I wired from the solenoid to the starter button to the non-popout ignition switch. You wire the battery to the solenoid. I turn the ignition switch to on and hit the starter button to run the starter.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

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I took my starter to the local shop to get the post fixed for the solenoid setup and the guy wanted $100 to do that and change to 12 volt. A little pricey I thought, so I took a couple of his business cards and left. When I got home and thought about it, I took his business cards, folded them, and stuffed them under the spring on the contact, in the box on top of the starter. This provided the necessary electrical change for the starter. I used the $100 to purchase a barrel Bendix, and a few other things. Works like a charm, and if I ever want to go back, just remove the cards and its done!

[Tom Wesenberg]

There are other options that might be easier. You could buy the accessory upstart that fastens to the steering column, or you could use the cable pull 1932 starter.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Jim Parker Toronto

I took my starter to the local shop to get the post fixed for the solenoid setup and the guy wanted $100 to do that and change to 12 volt. A little pricey I thought, so I took a couple of his business cards and left. When I got home and thought about it, I took his business cards, folded them, and stuffed them under the spring on the contact, in the box on top of the starter. This provided the necessary electrical change for the starter. I used the $100 to purchase a barrel Bendix, and a few other things. Works like a charm, and if I ever want to go back, just remove the cards and its done!

Way back in the dark ages, I "fixed" my starter by taking the switch off and just turning the contact strip upside down so that it was in contact at all times. That, too, worked like a charm.

Now, has anyone been able to come up with a key switch (with start) that will fit in the original dash panel?

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Way back in the dark ages, I "fixed" my starter by taking the switch off and just turning the contact strip upside down so that it was in contact at all times. That, too, worked like a charm.

Now, has anyone been able to come up with a key switch (with start) that will fit in the original dash panel?

Yes but you have to use a later solenoid that takes power from the switch. The old ones work by grounding them. You need one from a 12 volt ford they come with 4 terminals instead of 3. The extra one is for 12 volts to the coil for starting.

[Jim Brierley]

The 33-34 Model B starters were made for a remote switch, but they are hard to find. In the old days someone made a replacement switch that was for this, you see them sometimes at swap meets, if you know what to look for. I merely soldered a brass bolt onto the A "button" and it worked fine. The above solutions work too.

[400A-64]

Be very careful of using a modern key start!!!! A friend used one and lost his car in the resulting FIRE !!After a short time the pressure against the tank and switch will puncture the boot and short out....If you must use a key start....mount the instrument panel to a spacer of your own design in order to creat a gap between switch boot and the gas tank.
Bruce Davis [email protected]

[1931 flamingo]

To avoid what 400A-64 describes you could mount new sw assy to left of steering column on a home made brkt. JMO
Paul in CT

[CarlG]

With this much interest in a key start switch, I would think that someone would have found or produced a shallow enough switch that could be mounted in the panel. I know that NewRex makes one that has an ACC post on it that looks like a Pop Out, that is shallow enough, but I haven't seen anything with a "start" feature that fits the bill.

All the suggestions to mount it somewhere else would work, it's just not the effect I (and others) want.

[reece]

Originally Posted by George Miller

Yes but you have to use a later solenoid that takes power from the switch. The old ones work by grounding them. You need one from a 12 volt ford they come with 4 terminals instead of 3. The extra one is for 12 volts to the coil for starting.

You are correct with this but there is a workaround for folks who want to keep the dash button and old style solenoid.

I have wired a few cars for customers who wanted to retain the starter button on the dash (later 30s Fords and a couple of 40 Fords). To do that I mounted a 12 v relay under the dash and used the dash button to fire the relay and ground the old style solenoid on the firewall.

[Logan]

I understand the desire for a key start, but why not just buy one of the push button starters from the suppliers? it puts a solenoid on the original starter, and then you put the button up by the steering wheel somewhere. Its a very simple set up, and it takes away the foot starter.

[eagle]

"I understand the desire for a key start, but why not just buy one of the push..." Why would you want a key start? I haven't found any reason to not think my foot started is perfectly "cool". As long as the ebrake works for hill starting, I can't think why you would want a keystart... what am I missing?

[Logan]

Originally Posted by eagle

"I understand the desire for a key start, but why not just buy one of the push..." Why would you want a key start? I haven't found any reason to not think my foot started is perfectly "cool". As long as the ebrake works for hill starting, I can't think why you would want a keystart... what am I missing?

for universal use. If someone has to start the car and move it, that doesnt really know anything about a model a they wont always remember where the foot starter button is. I know one older guy in our club has one, because he had troubles putting his big foot up by the brake pedals and the a/c, and his ankle didn't want to twist anymore.

[Dave in Denver]

My reason for asking about converting to a key or push button starting rather than the stock foot starting on top of the starter is one thta comes from a bt of annoyance. I am having issues with my starter getting "stuck". What mean by stuck in the copper plate in the item on top of the starter gets "welded" to the copper button on the starter. I am getting good a taking the foot rod assembly off the top of the starter to undo the two pieces. In the past a notch has been takne out the button on the starter and I first tried filing it down to make the crevis shallower but it still likes to swallow or "weld" the copper plate to intothis crevis every once in a while when starting. I am now in the process of removing the starter to take it apart to replace the button with one that is perfectly flat with no crevis. As I was draining the water from the radiator to remove the side engine water neck to remove the starter, I had a thought about a selonoid driven starting process and wrote the question possing this thought to the board. I know I should just do it right and rebuild the starter the proper way, but too muc time in a cold garage gets a guy to thinking. I truly appreciate all the comments and discussion so far.

Dave

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Jordan

I'm pretty sure the parts suppliers sell a kit for this. not certain, but would look there first.

This is from Mac's catalog:


T51111 KIT $7.00

This is a universal kit that allows you to run a modern solenoid. There is a threaded stud (3/8" x 1-3/8") instead of the traditional flat contact button, which makes it easier to attach the battery cable.
USA made.

[Steve Wastler]

"As I was draining the water from the radiator to remove the side engine water neck to remove the starter"


Wow, that a lot of extra work for no gain, are you running an A engine? I must be missing something. There is a NOS upstart kit on eBay, why 're-invent the wheel'?