C59A Generator Amp Info/Wiring Gauge

[Ziggster]

I’m beginning to do the wiring on my speedster build with my C59A engine and original generator. Generator was rebuilt and remains as 6V. I’m wondering about the wire size/gauge to use for the various terminals.
(F, A, B)? I can’t really find any info anywhere on what the output of these generators were. My engine was used as some type of industrial engine and I believe it was some type of HD truck version based on the trans that came with it and large oval cleanout in the oil pan. So, not sure if generator was different as well from typical car version.
The other point I would like to mention is that I’ll be running a 6VD 16” dia. radiator cooling fan, and I believe it takes about 10A, so I’m hoping the generator will have sufficient output. There will be no other electrical accessories other than a single headlight (unknown bulb type - missing), and two “side marker” lights (Focus 6-8V, 3CP).

[glennpm]

Generator to Regulator:
Generator Armature to "A" regulator post Yellow with Black 10
Generator Field to "F" regulator post Black with White 16
Generator "B" post to Circuit Breaker Input Yellow 10
Generator Ground to Regulator Ground Black with Red 16

[ndnchf]

I believe these are rated at 30 amps. They will put out more, but that is their rating. There were some high output generators that put out 45 - 50 amps, but those were for special use.

[Ziggster]

Thanks for the info gents. Much appreciated. Somewhere at some time, I found a diagram of a generator amp vs rpm graph, but of course, I can’t find it. In my mind, I thought output was somewhere between 40-50A.

I have another question - how was the engine grounded? I was thinking of using a 1/0 cable attached to the front of the block next to one of the water pumps where there is an unused 3/8” threaded hole. I think I ordered some ground straps while I was at Hershey last fall, but can’t find those either. Lol!

[big job]

Proper grounds 1) should be fat cable from battery to anywhere on the block 2) atleast no 10 ga. block to firewall 3) one more 10 ga. block to chassis poor chassis ground may cause speedometer to melt, e- brake cable & who knows only electrons knows.

[Ziggster]

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Interesting. I’ll also be running a 1/0 cable from the battery to the chassis. Is it really necessary to run the other grounds?

[rotorwrench]

If the engine is mostly rubber mounted then the engine drive assembly should be grounded to the battery and the frame. A lot of the battery installations in late flatheads had the battery grounded to the engine but it depends on where the battery is, The engine should have a good ground to the frame as well.

Most cars of the 30s started out with 20 amp generators along with 25 or 30 amp generators for radio cars. The 30 amp generators became common after the change to the 2-brush generator in 1939 but there were still some 3-brush generators. In the 8BA years, most generators were 35 amp with 40 amp available for the Lincoln cars or Police cars. Alternators were developed in this time frame for fire trucks and other emergency vehicles that needed more electrical buss power.

[Ziggster]

Engine and trans (T5) are rubber isolated. The engine is using the Ford OEM style engine mounts, and the T5 is using a GM style mount. Battery is mounted under the seat. I came across this thread which shows a ground strap from the battery to the torque tube clamshell.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204197