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Old 07-06-2014, 06:26 AM   #1
dutch1023
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Default Dash gauges don't work

Hey, just joined the forum. I have a 48 f1 that i converted to 12 volt with an alternator. Kept my old gauges but none of them work. Any ideas for what i can do to get them working?
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Old 07-06-2014, 06:51 AM   #2
don-wi
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

If you didn't install a voltage dropping resistor you probably fried your gauges
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:57 PM   #3
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

You can check out your gauges by putting 6 volts to them, see if there is a polarity change.If they work on 6 volts they are ok, if not you will replace the gauge.
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Old 07-06-2014, 01:28 PM   #4
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

Hope you changed the head and tail light bulbs to 12v. The 6v gauge lights may be fried, too.
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Old 07-06-2014, 03:11 PM   #5
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

You may be lucky, many's the time guys have 12V jumped a 6V system unknowingly and the gauges still worked. Buy the Voltage lowering resisters and 12V bulbs for all lights and try again. You have better than a 50 50 chance the gauges will work. If not then replace the gauge or gauges that are fried. Try first though.
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Old 07-06-2014, 04:21 PM   #6
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

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Originally Posted by AnthonyG View Post
You may be lucky, many's the time guys have 12V jumped a 6V system unknowingly and the gauges still worked. Buy the Voltage lowering resisters and 12V bulbs for all lights and try again. You have better than a 50 50 chance the gauges will work. If not then replace the gauge or gauges that are fried. Try first though.
Hello Tony,where can I buy gauges for my 51 F1 ?,the oil pressure and temp guage don't work and I,v never seen repro,s for sale with the big boys ,cheers Jim.
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Old 07-06-2014, 06:26 PM   #7
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

When changing to 12 volts did you change out all the bulbs. what you need is a voltage reducer like this one. http://dennis-carpenter.com/voltage-.../48TR-D-10800/

I did this on my 48 Fq and it works fine.
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Old 07-06-2014, 06:40 PM   #8
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

37Coop- There are no repo gauges out there. You have to look for NOS gauges. Best place to look is Ebay. Is your truck 6v or 12v? Have you tested the gauges by removing the wire off each corresponding sender and touching that wire to a good ground with the key on? If it reacts and pegs the needle, then the sending unit is bad, not the gauge. If no movement, bad gauge. Same thing applies to 12v, but you need the voltage reducer on a 12V system. All USA Ford gauges were meant to operate on 6 volts up until 1986.
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:45 AM   #9
dutch1023
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

Hey Don-wi. I put a voltage reducer in the line for my gas gauge but not the others. I was told it was only needed for the gas gauge. Thanks.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:49 AM   #10
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

dutch, Here's a wiring diagram for 48 Ford truck. It shows an ammeter instead of a volt meter. Is this what you have? If you currently have an ammeter consider replacing it with a volt meter as it is much safer. The key word here is "REPLACING" not "CONVERTING" the ammeter to a volt meter. I hope others with more electrical expertise on how to rewire your electrical system for this "replacing" will chime in as I am not an expert.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...I hope.730942/

http://www.auto-wiring-diagram.com/w...ord-trucks.jpg

Last edited by 19Fordy; 07-07-2014 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:19 PM   #11
Ross F-1
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

Here's the wiring diagram.

The reducer is needed for everything but the ammeter. Either individual Runtz-type reducers for each gauge or a single Instrument Voltage Regulator from a '57 - '86 Ford car or truck.
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File Type: jpg Flathead_Electrical_wiring1948-49truck.jpg (95.3 KB, 26 views)
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:32 PM   #12
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

Ross, Would it be possible to install the Voltage regulator as you suggested and also install a Voltmeter WITHOUT making any changes to the ammeter wiring?
Or, does the ammeter have to disconnected and the wires feeding it soldered together?
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:36 PM   #13
Ross F-1
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

The ammeter on these is an inductive type, with a loop that the battery feed wire passes thru. The only thing needed to do to "disconnect" it is to remove the end of the battery feed off the circuit breaker nearby, pull it back thru the loop, and reconnect it. There are people who have adapted an '80's Ford truck voltmeter to fit into the ammeter casing and into the dash, it's surprisingly easy if you get the right one.

Edit: '87-'89 Ford van and F-series voltmeters are an excellent fit.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:31 PM   #14
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

Quote:
Originally Posted by ross f-1 View Post
the ammeter on these is an inductive type, with a loop that the battery feed wire passes thru. The only thing needed to do to "disconnect" it is to remove the end of the battery feed off the circuit breaker nearby, pull it back thru the loop, and reconnect it. There are people who have adapted an '80's ford truck voltmeter to fit into the ammeter casing and into the dash, it's surprisingly easy if you get the right one.

Edit: '87-'89 ford van and f-series voltmeters are an excellent fit.
Thank you.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:03 PM   #15
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

I like the Runtz voltage regulators because they are small and bolt onto the back of the gauges. Just converted my 52 panel to 12v using flathead sending units on my 289 engine and the runtz regulators on the gauges. Works very well. I plan to add a diode off the starter solenoid to absorb the voltage spikes to protect the runtz.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:08 PM   #16
Ross F-1
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

Are you running a generator, Gearhead? Why would there be voltage spikes?

I'm using one of these, 3+ years without any issues: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Instrum...item417f9ccd3e

(When I bought mine, they didn't even have a case, just a bare circuit board)
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:18 PM   #17
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

No running an alternator. The collapsing magentic field of the coil in the starter solenoid induces a large spike on the power line that can kill electronics. If running the pertronics ignition or have other electronics you need a diode to suppress the spikes. If you look on newer ford solenoids they are stamped diode suppressed indicating a diode inside. Need one on all devices with a coil of wire like heater, wipers, horn, relays. Use a simple 1n4005 diode from radio shack. In theory should only need one on the main power line but they are cheap and the starter solenoid is the worst culprit so start there.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:32 PM   #18
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross F-1 View Post
Are you running a generator, Gearhead? Why would there be voltage spikes?

I'm using one of these, 3+ years without any issues: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Instrum...item417f9ccd3e

(When I bought mine, they didn't even have a case, just a bare circuit board)
Just wondering why go with a 5v regulator instead of 6v? Are the gauges accurate?
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:59 PM   #19
Ross F-1
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

I don't know why they call it a 5v regulator; they sell the same one as a 6v and various other voltages for specific makes. Its output is adjustable (brass screw visible in one pic) and I run mine at 7.2v. The gauges don't really seem to be that particular about voltage anyway.
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Old 07-08-2014, 03:55 PM   #20
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Default Re: Dash gauges don't work

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry-ct View Post
37Coop- There are no repo gauges out there. You have to look for NOS gauges. Best place to look is Ebay. Is your truck 6v or 12v? Have you tested the gauges by removing the wire off each corresponding sender and touching that wire to a good ground with the key on? If it reacts and pegs the needle, then the sending unit is bad, not the gauge. If no movement, bad gauge. Same thing applies to 12v, but you need the voltage reducer on a 12V system. All USA Ford gauges were meant to operate on 6 volts up until 1986.
Thanks Barry, its a recent import changed to 12v before I bought it .it didn't have any reducers on it ,the gas and battery dials work o.k ,the oil pressure gauge did work ,I then had the engine rebuilt and I rewired it wire by wire and when it was put together the oil gauge registered nil when running ,I changed the sender for a new repro and when the ignition is turned on the needle goes to maximum without the engine running ,the temp gauge has never moved since I,v had it , as you can guess electrics are a mystery to me .I will play with them tomorrow with your instructions in mind , many thanks Jim.
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