Ever wish you knew more precisely what your engine temperature is?

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Rand

Thanks old Henry call me dumb..but what is "black friction/cloth tape "?
Always enjoy your posts ..thanks a bunch
Randy

It's the "other" non-vinyl electrical tape. It's really called "friction tape" but is a black cloth electical tape.

You get it the same place you buy the well known vinyl tape like Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/buy/3m-3-4-...07na-ba-6.html

I like it a whole lot better than vinyl tape because, although it doesn't stick to anything else very well, it sticks to itself extremely well. So, once you've wrapped something with it, it never "lifts" off like vinyl tape does. It tears by hand like duct tape and it looks very authentic on the old cars - just like the old cloth insulated wires. I think once you try it you'll never use vinyl tape on your old car again.

And I'd never call you dumb cause you ain't. You cain't learn if you cain't ask.

[Royal Ryser]

I see somebody took a shot at GM again. He may be a bit repetative, but he has posted a lot of very good info on this site. Yeah, he likes Skip's pumps; so do I, but I don't see any need to castigate him. GM takes the time to write long, detailed answers that seem to make sense, many times backed up by good data. So maybe his conclusion this time was lacking or even wrong. I think maybe some of the others who post articles/opinions are occassionally wrong, too.

Maybe we need one of those little picture thingies to attach to articles, that identifies the ones that are 100% correct. That way, we could just skip reading the others. Or maybe, somebody who doesn't like GM's posts could just skip those. Either way, I hope GM keeps writing.

This wasn't a strong attack, but it wasn't necessary, either. Can't we all just get along?

[zzlegend]

I no this is an older thread but Old Henry, I have to ask. Where did you find that adaptor from your temp sending probe to the head? I have been looking and can not seem to find one.

[Old Henry]

It came with the gauge set. The block thread is 3/8" pipe thread. Take your gauge to the plumbing supply and they may have an adapter.

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by Rand

Thanks old Henry call me dumb..but what is "black friction/cloth tape "?
Always enjoy your posts ..thanks a bunch
Randy

LOL,its the old black tape we as kids usta recover our no cover any more base balls with. Its almost impossible to find anymore. ken ct.

[Andy]

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Originally Posted by zzlegend

I no this is an older thread but Old Henry, I have to ask. Where did you find that adaptor from your temp sending probe to the head? I have been looking and can not seem to find one.

I modified a common fitting. I found a fitting with the right pipe thread for the head and the right straight threads for the bulb. It was an inverted flare fitting for a brake line. I took a drill and removed the inverted flare which left a cone for the fitting to seal in. They work just fine.
I am planning on going to 12V and use electric gages. I intend to use one gage and two senders and switch between with a toggle switch. I am going to use an old 32 gage housing to mount it in my stock 32 panel.

[jimvette59]

Ken ct you can get friction tape at a Home Depot in the Electrical dept.. Well here on Long Island NY I can. Jim.T.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by zzlegend

I no this is an older thread but Old Henry, I have to ask. Where did you find that adaptor from your temp sending probe to the head? I have been looking and can not seem to find one.

Here's the Sun Pro gauge I got at AutoZone for 20 bucks that includes the adapter: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=2437255
It comes in black too: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ntifier=889867

[tubman]

I've always considered these kinda' neat, but expensive. I'm considering getting one for my '51.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by jimvette59

Ken ct you can get friction tape at a Home Depot in the Electrical dept.. Well here on Long Island NY I can. Jim.T.

Ken, you can at yours there in Stratford, too.

[Royal Ryser]

Originally Posted by G.M.

I know exactly what the temperature is on all of my old Fords when I drive them. I use Skips pumps on all of my Fords and contrary to what others report ALL of mine run within 2 or 3 degrees on both sides. There are no new type thermostats or washers that do not restrict the flow which increases temperature. I have Bob Shewman's [email protected] 180 degree FULL FLOW stats in the hoses of 3 39's and they all run within 2 degrees of 180 on both sides from 45 degree to 95 degrees outside temperatures. I have done a lot of heat testing on these cars over the past 15 or more years on both the cooling and fuel systems. I have 3 or 4 laser pointed thermometers with one on the old car and my diesel p/u at all times. The 0nly really important temperature is on the buldge of the 32 to 36 years right behind the water pumps, on the neck of the water outlet just below the hose on 37 to 48's and on the goose neck of the outlet on 49 to 53 years. The gun has to be held same distance from the test point and at the same angle hitting the same spot each time temperatures are taken. After a few times testing is done under the same driving and outside temperatures conditions compairing these results with the dash gauge you will know exactly when a change occures and what your gauge is reading. With a one sided temperature sender it measures that side of the engine which it is installed in. If one side starts to get warmer it raises the water temperarure in the entire system and shows a higher temperature on the single gauge. This single gauge has worked for 70 plus years. As most of you know the internal water system in the block consists of 2 seperate cooling systems each with it's own pump. The water is mixed together only in the radiator. G.M.

Thanks for the info, GM. It may have sounded like a sales pitch to some, but I learned that the two sides will run at about the same temp if the pumps and the rest of the cooling system are in good condition. So, why would anyone need two temp gages? Some folks do like to throw rocks.

[66miles]

I have learned the hard way on a couple of my earlier cars (1 a Ford n the other a Jap) that one of the most important factors in ANY motor is the cleanliness of the cooling system. It's gotta be one of the most neglected things under any joe-average hood. So many people out there just never bother to do anything other than top the things up once in a while. I'll bet less than 1% have ever been flushed let alone pulled apart and cleaned out. VERY important on our old flatheads I've been told!

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Royal Ryser

Thanks for the info, GM. It may have sounded like a sales pitch to some, but I learned that the two sides will run at about the same temp if the pumps and the rest of the cooling system are in good condition. So, why would anyone need two temp gages? Some folks do like to throw rocks.

I installed a second gauge because my stock dashboard gauge didn't tell me the actual temperature and when you're pushing the limit of temperature climbing a mountain in the summer you need to know. But, I wanted to keep the dash gauge for a "general idea" and the detailed one for the crunch.

Although when things are all working right the two sides should be pretty close, they aren't when they aren't. This winter I was having a problem getting heat out of the heater running off the right side even though the mechanical gauge said the engine was hot enough to get some heat. But, the mechanical gauge was measuring the left side that was warming up fine while the stock dash gauge was measuring the right side that wasn't heating up and it showed on the gauge. So, the two sides were very different temperature. Why? I wondered. Checked the thermostat on the right and it had floated up and wasn't stopping the flow to warm up that side. Secured it and all was well. Having two gauges helped diagnose and solve that mystery.

[Bassman/NZ]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I installed a second gauge because my stock dashboard gauge didn't tell me the actual temperature and when you're pushing the limit of temperature climbing a mountain in the summer you need to know. But, I wanted to keep the dash gauge for a "general idea" and the detailed one for the crunch.

Although when things are all working right the two sides should be pretty close, they aren't when they aren't. This winter I was having a problem getting heat out of the heater running off the right side even though the mechanical gauge said the engine was hot enough to get some heat. But, the mechanical gauge was measuring the left side that was warming up fine while the stock dash gauge was measuring the right side that wasn't heating up and it showed on the gauge. So, the two sides were very different temperature. Why? I wondered. Checked the thermostat on the right and it had floated up and wasn't stopping the flow to warm up that side. Secured it and all was well. Having two gauges helped diagnose and solve that mystery.

There ya go, a valid reason for having two gauges.

[IL41Flat]

Agree two is always better than one. I asked my neighbor who runs a machine shop to make an adapter to screw in to the head for me, because none of the ones that came with gauges seemed correct thread.

[Bob/Ohio]

If anyone needs the brass adapter fitting for a Stewart Warner capillary tube gauge, Speedway has them. Part number 1822370, for a 3/8 pipe thread to a 5/8- 18 tube nut. These have the correct seat in them for the capillary tube. Just bought one myself.

[zzlegend]

Originally Posted by Bob/Ohio

If anyone needs the brass adapter fitting for a Stewart Warner capillary tube gauge, Speedway has them. Part number 1822370, for a 3/8 pipe thread to a 5/8- 18 tube nut. These have the correct seat in them for the capillary tube. Just bought one myself.

Thanks Bob. I have a stewart warner gauge and that's what I was looking for.
Andy and Old Henry, thanks also. Two good tips.
A lot of good info on this barn. Thanks for the reply's.

[Steves46]

Originally Posted by 66miles

I have learned the hard way on a couple of my earlier cars (1 a Ford n the other a Jap) that one of the most important factors in ANY motor is the cleanliness of the cooling system. It's gotta be one of the most neglected things under any joe-average hood. So many people out there just never bother to do anything other than top the things up once in a while. I'll bet less than 1% have ever been flushed let alone pulled apart and cleaned out. VERY important on our old flatheads I've been told!

Couldn't agree with you more! Despite having Skips pumps and no T-Stats, I was also having cooling problems a couple of years ago. Pulled the radiator, had it cleaned/serviced and the problem immediately vanished.