Another pan rail crack thread- Save it or junk it?

[Tim Ayers]

Well, the rust bomb 99A I posted about before keeps on giving me gifts. Found this pan rail crack. I thought it was just a gouge and I keep scraping it with a pick. The more I sprayed it with brake clean, the more junk comes to the surface, so it seems to me it's a crack.

I read some archives from Walt D. and Mart in the UK. Once torn down, I'm going to clean it the best I can at home and pressure test it.

My friend suggested adding a little light oil to the water jacket to see if the air pressure forces the oil through the crack.

It will be some time until I get there, but I'll report back.

In the old threads, Walt and Mart had suggestions of drilling either side, V'ing it out and epoxying over it.

This is the third 99A block that I've had and the third with cracks. The other two have them both in the #3 intake valve pocket. Toying with getting those fixed.

Here is a picture.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Well, the rust bomb 99A I posted about before keeps on giving me gifts. Found this pan rail crack. I thought it was just a gouge and I keep scraping it with a pick. The more I sprayed it with brake clean, the more junk comes to the surface, so it seems to me it's a crack.

I read some archives from Walt D. and Mart in the UK. Once torn down, I'm going to clean it the best I can at home and pressure test it.

My friend suggested adding a little light oil to the water jacket to see if the air pressure forces the oil through the crack.

It will be some time until I get there, but I'll report back.

In the old threads, Walt and Mart had suggestions of drilling either side, V'ing it out and epoxying over it.

This is the third 99A block that I've had and the third with cracks. The other two have them both in the #3 intake valve pocket. Toying with getting those fixed.

Here is a picture.

[Andy]

I would V it out and weld it. I had a car I let get low on antifreeze and it froze up. The side walls cracked from head to pan on both sides. I took nothing loose and arc welded it. Never leaked and was perfect when I sold the car

[Karl Wolf]

1) magnaflux all around the center main... Cracks around there will weaken the block.
2) don't introduce oil anywhere, hard to get rid of.
3) I tried arc welding on cast iron when I was young, did not go well... cracked next to
the weld.
4) I would try veeing out the crack and brazing.
5) OK, this should have been #1, Magnuflux the top of the block, pressure test the
whole block.

Karl

[KiWinUS]

Scrap. I will not repair those for many reasons.

[Pete]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Modern weld technique can weld that so it can't be seen. HOWEVER, the pan rails will have to be surfaced and that will cause obvious problems with the end seals and maybe a modified pan to be done.
Unless the engine is for a judging restoration, it would be much better to get a 46 to 53 block.

[vincent]

Laserweld it, no tension, no cracks

[Jack E/NJ]

Not sure how much that weenie little imperfection --- whether a crack or not --- could substantially weaken the block. I'd prolly smear the pan gasket with grease, snug the pan bolts up & see what happens. 8^)

[19Fordy]

Save it. I would try repairing it using one of these methods shown in article below. Open and scroll down for helpful info. Be sure to read the entire article.
https://waterwelders.com/how-to-fix-...%20Cast%20Iron

I would first try the afore mentioned laser welding if I could find a shop that does that kind of welding. I wonder if a local vocational tech school would have a laser welder and would do it for you for a donation. It sure looks promising.
http://alphalaser.com/2019/02/05/cas...laser-welding/

[Fortunateson]

There’s a fellow on the HAMB that stated some guys add cement mix into the block to seal and strengthen pan rail cracks.

[Bored&Stroked]

Like most everything, the answer is "it depends". LOL. If the crack goes all the way to the center and there are any cracks around the center web/main area, then I'd not risk it.

I'd love to try laser welding, but I don't know enough about it.

However, if you can identify the ends of the crack and drill them, then potentially aluminum-bronze braze it with TIG on AC, might be worth a try. I only have a DC TIG, so I'm sort of stuck with silicon-bronze rod.

Some guys don't pre-heat the block, that doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I'd make a nice BBQ pit, get a bunch of coals nice and hot and put this sucker in there! I'd also have some thermal blankets to put around it when I pull it out and after welding - to cool it as slow as possible. Another option is a big steel drum full of vermiculite.

The other real question is how much time/effort are you willing to put into it? I doubt I'd do a full-race type build - due to the number of hours of porting, relieving, valve work, special MAINs, etc.. I wouldn't invest that much into it . . . at least today! LOL

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Like most everything, the answer is "it depends". LOL. If the crack goes all the way to the center and there are any cracks around the center web/main area, then I'd not risk it.

I'd love to try laser welding, but I don't know enough about it.

However, if you can identify the ends of the crack and drill them, then potentially aluminum-bronze braze it with TIG on AC, might be worth a try. I only have a DC TIG, so I'm sort of stuck with silicon-bronze rod.

The other real question is how much time/effort are you willing to put into it? I doubt I'd do a full-race type build - due to the number of hours of porting, relieving, valve work, special MAINs, etc.. I wouldn't invest that much into it . . . at least today! LOL

It has now become Man vs. Machine. I'm determined to at least get it apart so I can check things out. Always learning....

I wouldn't be surprised to find other issues. Here it is as it sits today....

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

It has now become Man vs. Machine. I'm determined to at least get it apart so I can check things out. Always learning....

I wouldn't be surprised to find other issues. Here it is as it sits today....

[Bored&Stroked]

Hey Tim . . . that won't run worth a crap! The dang pistons are not connected to the crankshaft! You need to fix this now . . .

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Hey Tim . . . that won't run worth a crap! The dang pistons are not connected to the crankshaft! You need to fix this now . . .

Haha. It's one of those new hybrids they keep talking about...