The pain continues: Broken head stud.

[Mart]

Ok, ok, I know - without photo's it didn't happen. Well, I wish it hadn't happened but it did.

I offered the heads up to the 59A I'm redo-ing and I could see one of the studs was partially stripped. I thought I'd just whizz that one out and put another one in. Well, it broke.

I'm now going through the pain of trying to get the remnant out. I don't really want to start yet another discussion on removing a broken one, I'm trying various techniques.

But I would like to ask the experts opinions.. If you are faced with removing studs from a motor, do you have any PREVENTATIVE measures that you take to ensure you do not break any, or at least keep the number broke to a minimum?

Heat? Candle wax? penetrating concoctions? Impact wrench?

Or you you just go at them heavy-handedly and then deal with the breakages later?

Please share.

Mart.

[Terry,OH]

ratchet and 6 sided socket, get them to move first before putting a air wiz on them. This way you can find the stuck ones without breaking them, apply heat to the stuck nuts. As a last resort to get a broken stud out I have a drill bushing that has the OD ground down to fit the ID of the head stud hole, I can then center drill stud without the drill walking off center

[Pete Fl/Wi]

I am faced with the same problem. PO for some reason used one stud on either side. Of course the first one snapped off flush with the block face. Drill and a pick and 3 hours and I got the stud out. Today I will try the other stud and hope it will not snap.
Pete having flathead fun!

[Planojc]

Google, How to rwemove a broken stud and you will get all the u tube video's you want on the subject.

[rotorwrench]

If you know a machine shop that can tank the engine for rust removal, you might try that first. Some of the studs protrude into the water and they get rusted up on the tips. This can really make removal a b!tch. They also might have sonic disintegrator removal equipment that can buzz the broken stud right out of there.

[40Pickup]

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Have not much to add, but ...
If you want to use heat, one thing to keep in mind, the heat would most only go one way.
I usually heat the stud dark red, then turn the engine upside down so the heat can walk up, then let it cool down, this may be repeated several times to achieve any effect.
But as Rotorwrench says, there are many things that can complicate removal.

Jorgen

[Charlie ny]

What Terry says....works best foe me !!
Charlie ny

[Bruce Lancaster]

One of the best preventives is a collett type stud puller, similar to the one Ford shows in the overhaul book. This threads on to the top of the the stud and then is tightened by the collett part to an absolute deathgrip. This gives you a starting point concentric to the stud, reducing bending and twisting.
I ended up buying this Snap-on set, which covers most eventualities on elderly American cars:

http://store.snapon.com/Stud-Remover...--P635359.aspx

Expensive, but a magnificent tool and cheap by Snap-on standards! You can get a whole lot less for that amount of money from Snap-on!

I have heard that the concentricity and shock of starting the job with an air wrench is also beneficial in breaking the things loose safely, but since my air compressor is a 1932 Ford toolkit tire pump I can't get that to work.

[Pete Fl/Wi]

Good news. Kroil overnight and vice grip got the second one out. This stud was black but clean the one that broke was rust and some white corrosion.
On to the next step. Putting stock heads on and then to my test stand.

[Mart]

Thanks for all the hints and tips, guys. I have ordered a roller clutch type extractor, I'll give that a go next time.

This one failed to respond to welding, I used the head as a drill guide, but I suspect the drill still wandered off a bit. I have tried heating it, driving in a screwdriver blade, and lots of cussing, but no good so far. I will soak it and I'm kinda leaning towards trying another go at welding. If I can get some weld down the middle, the thermal shock and the shrinkage after cooling hopefully should contract it a bit. If no good, I can have another go at drilling. I have a helicoil tool, so there is always that option, but I really would like to retain the original threads if possible.

The stud in question is the leftmost one on the top row. Right hand bank, by No4 cyl. Does this one go through into the water jacket?

If it does I may try turning it clockwise first, as it can go into the water jacket a bit, it may be easier for it to go that way rather than wind the rusty end out.

I'll let you all know how it turns out. (haha , geddit? I hope it does turn. In, out, I don't mind!)

Mart.

[Ross6860]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

One of the best preventives is a collett type stud puller, similar to the one Ford shows in the overhaul book. This threads on to the top of the the stud and then is tightened by the collett part to an absolute deathgrip. This gives you a starting point concentric to the stud, reducing bending and twisting.
I ended up buying this Snap-on set, which covers most eventualities on elderly American cars:

http://store.snapon.com/Stud-Remover...--P635359.aspx

Expensive, but a magnificent tool and cheap by Snap-on standards! You can get a whole lot less for that amount of money from Snap-on!

I have heard that the concentricity and shock of starting the job with an air wrench is also beneficial in breaking the things loose safely, but since my air compressor is a 1932 Ford toolkit tire pump I can't get that to work.

Thanks for the link. I looked all over for one. Most folks looked at me like I was asking if they had seen Bigfoot.

Three broken studs will pay for that tool if you have to pay someone to get them out.

[Andy]

I always had to weld the stud twice to make it not fail. The first weld softens it I guess. If a studs has not snaped yet, I use two vice grips working on opposite sides to eliminate bending. Little shock loads also help. Back and forth movements also can help.

[mrtexas]

Broken off studs are best removed by welding which is way better than drilling. First weld a washer to the broken stud being careful not to weld to the thread in the block, TIG is best for that but MIG and stick also work. There are special rods available just for stud removal, expensive but they work. Then weld a nut to the washer. Apply heat to the block then put a wrench to the nut. Repeat if the stud doesn't come out the first time. Works every time for me. Soaking in kroil or a candle is also a good idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=4BFUfGKU_ts

Before you break off the bolt, soak with kroil or heat a little and add candle wax. Heat the block up around the bolt and quench and reheat a couple times. You can heat the bolt but you may remove the temper making it harder to get out.

[Mart]

It's out!



Anyone that's "been there" knows the significance of that picture - what a pretty sight!

Thanks for all the advice. I used all the advice you guys were kind enough to offer, and I changed my technique.

I had tried 3 times to weld on a washer and nut and failed.

I drilled it, but was afraid of damaging the threads.

I had a break from it last night but attacked it tonight with a positive attitude.

I pre heated the area and the stud with oxy acetylene. I filled the drilled hole in the stud with mig weld. I put a nut over the hole and migged down through the nut and welded the nut to the stud.

While it was cooling I fired up my big compressor and broke out the impact wrench and a suitable socket.

It had cooled by now and I hit it with the impact wrench....

It snapped right off!

Ok, a slightly different technique required.

I welded a washer onto the stud remnants - this was easier than welding through the nut. Then I welded a nut to the washer.

Let it cool.

Hit it with the impact wrench in the clockwise direction.

It moved! A tiny, tiny amount, but it moved. I tried it anti-clock. It moved! I oiled it and kept going, reversing direction regularly and eventually it came all the way out.

So I think the key elements that made the difference, were:

1, drill the core out of the stud.

2, Fill it with weld

3, Use a washer first.

4, Use an impact wrench.

5, Try clockwise first

If I ever need to do another one I will follow the same process without skipping a single step.

I watched this video on youtube and followed the procedure.

http://youtu.be/bSOg7aQ44eg

I think the people who replied with negative comments are idiots. It certainly helped me.

Mart.

[rheltzel]

I used to soak each stud with repeated applications of diesel fuel, starting about a week before I wanted to remove them. Diesel is one of the best things to use to loosen stuck metal things. I know...it sounds hokey, but it really works.